MartinB

It's so that they could make it available on the HX One and HX Effects, which don't have any amp models - it was confirmed by one of the Line 6 folks on another forum, although I couldn't tell you which one. The EQ on the Regal is quite smooth and flattering - it's hard to make it sound bad, a bit like a good Baxandall EQ. The Low Cut seems a bit drastic, but I guess it depends on what else is going on in your mix. I'm too cloth-eared to hear the secret magic harmonic tone sauce. If you really boost the signal going into the Regal, you can hear there's some hair being added - but it seems extremely... subtle under normal conditions.

Re Darkglass, I quite like running an Alpha Omicron* into the Digbeth - it tames some of the fizz and gives a nice snarly sound that neither pedal can achieve alone: Digbeth + Alpha Omicron.mp3 * Not a real one - a DemonFX clone

Damn, I ought to be getting some commission! 😆

I think the drive sound is superb - very happy with it! I made a thread a while back with details of what the EQ controls do - might be of some use:

I think I learned White Wedding once, long ago - is it the one where there's like 32 bars of the same note over and over? A couple of suggestions: - Attack determines whether the initial transient is allowed through before compression starts. So you don't want to set it too fast, or it'll squash the percussive "click" of the plectrum. The Providence manual says it goes from 0.1 to 10 ms; I'd probably crank it to maximum. - For general smoothing, set the threshold so that the gain reduction indicator isn't lighting up on every note - just when you dig in a bit. This should help even out any over-enthusiasm, without sounding too effect-y. But also try setting it so that it's on all the time, and see if you prefer that sound.

There have been some attempts by the usual suspects: Harley Benton Rockboard EBS I've got some of the EBS ones. They're very neat when the power socket is recessed into the body of the pedal, but a surprising amount sticks out if the socket is flush with the pedal surface:

I've got one like this and it sounds good to me. With tone all the way up, less of the high frequencies will be sent to ground compared to a 250k pot, so it'll sound brighter. Turn it down halfway and it'll sound the same as a fully-open 250k tone control. The capacitor doesn't do anything interesting until you roll the tone down below ~20%, at which point you start to get a small bump in the low mids. Compared to a standard 47nF cap, a 68nF will create a smaller peak and it'll be at a lower frequency - like 200Hz rather than 350Hz. It'll also roll off more of the high frequencies at this point.

Ooh, Nordic jazz - should be a pleasant listen

I saw the thread title, thought "Spark Booster!", and then came in to find you were already using one 😆

Shorter than that, you may need to do it yourself: https://www.pedalpatch.co.uk/product-page/solderless-dc-kit-v2

Rockboard do a 15cm one: https://www.rockboard.de/en/power-supplies/power-cables/power-cable-angled-angled/

https://www.daddario.com/products/accessories/care-maintenance-tools/restring-tools/pro-winder-bass/

The real thing. Okay ✅ Counterfeit. Purports to be the real thing, but who knows what's inside? Not Okay ❌ Similar-looking; you know what they're aiming for, but you don't expect it to be as good. Okay ✅ Different-looking; you can guess they're aiming for, but you don't expect it to be as good. Okay ✅

AKG Y20 (cheapo in-ears), which are 16 Ohms, and Audio Technica ATH-M50 (entry-level closed-back studio headphones) at 38 Ohms. Apparently anything > 100 Ohms is considered high impedance, and may lack volume and dynamics when used with devices that can't supply enough voltage - which is why I wanted to check. This science is a bit beyond me though, so I may just be muddying the waters 😆

The headphone out on mine sounds the same as the line out/DI out. I haven't come across any volume problems, but what's loud enough is a bit subjective. Are you using high-impedance headphones? I can see how it would be a pain to have to rebalance the channel levels when using the "Mix" mode just to make the headphones louder/quieter.

Well I was all set to get an HX One, and then I started reading about how much more an HX Stomp can do... and realising how much of the extra cost would be covered by selling the pedals it would replace... I think you can see where this is going 😆

A pleasant listen! Vocals not strong, but characterful, and some nice backing/harmonies. Nicely recorded but not too slick. I liked the use of percussion. I bet they're fun to watch live. The track that stuck with me is Neighbors - it puts in me mind of a meek Jesus Lizard 😆

It might be me! I already have a compressor, drive and pre-amp that I'm very happy with. I have an MS-60B for one-off modulation, and I was thinking about buying/building a loop switcher to toggle its position between the pre-amp's FX loop and in front of the pre-amp (e.g. for use as an envelope filter). The HX One looks like it will do all of that in one box. The HX Stomp and HX Effects do a lot more for double the price, but they'd make all my other pedals redundant... not sure I'm ready for that! If the HX One did, say 3 blocks instead of 1, it'd be absolutely killer... but it's not in Line 6's interests to provide too much functionality at the entry level.

I see a headstock and I want to paint it black

Great idea!

Input impedance is 1MΩ when enabled, so you're not likely to have any issues there. It's true bypass when off, so I guess the question is whether there's a pedal further down the chain that needs a buffer in front?

Soooo, potentially a case of soldering a large (e.g. 1MΩ, 2.2MΩ) resistor between these two? 🤔 I appreciate that by saying this, I am literally That Guy the article mentions... 😆

They didn't call it "Pianoeo"? The cowards!

Some good info on switch pop causes and solutions: https://www.mrblackpedals.com/blogs/straight-jive/6629778-what-really-causes-switch-pop