Killed_by_Death

Carol notoriously uses flats & a pick. Leland Sklar says he prefers rounds, because if he wants them to sound like flats he can just use a mute.

This a mute: pros use it to make roundwounds sound like flats

Often a really simple change will breathe new life into a dull-sounding instrument, give it a nice stiff neck (if the current neck is flimsy), or swap in 500K Ohm pots for the 250K Ohm stock pots.

Fender decides if it's a Precision, they invented it by adding frets (for precision). From my looks at what FENDER are willing to call a Precision, it's the body that matters. This is a Precision Blacktop: The split-coil pickups & position are what give a standard, modern Precision most of its distinctive sound. The stiffness of the neck always matters & a thicker neck is often stiffer, but it's not impossible for a Jazz neck to be as stiff as a Precision neck.

Slap/Tap/Pop isn't in my fingers' vocabulary, but I do enjoy that extra high-mids crunch I get from Stainless DR Lo-Riders. I've learned to alter my technique when tuning down so that I don't need to have larger-diameter strings. I used to like GHS, but I've had so many online run-ins with their guy, Moody, that I stopped purchasing those. Same reason I won't purchase anything from Dunlop, their loudmouth rep. on TB is as obnoxious as they come.

Certainly not for upright players, but at the end of the day it's a bass guitar. I don't think anyone implied the seating position is better, it's so the bass is in the position whether you're seated or standing. Someone might practice palm-muted notes on the 1st string at home while seated perfectly fine, but when they sling it low, that palm-muting position & 1st string become out of reach.

Always adjust the strap from a seated position, that way when you stand up, it will still be in the same place.

One of the things I have enjoyed about Ibanez was their online support, but that is falling apart now, they took down their wiring diagrams URL a few months ago & the link to it is gone from their site: http://www2.ibanez.com/support/wiringdiagrams

There are 3 iterations of the SR5005E, according their BOM lists on their parts page: I had a fun time comparing the 01 & 02 versions & found the difference was the shape of the controls-cavity cover, LOL! So they changed the routing. That's as far as I compared, there are also 4 iterations of the SR5005OL (non-E). From their main page, you can go to Support & Parts Lookup to see the BOM of almost everything.

A G&L with MFD pickups is going to mop the floor with a Squier.

doomed to always be an outlier, I prefer non-opaque finishes:

That's it, tomorrow I'm tearing the guts out & wiring the pickups straight to the jack! I don't actually want the East preamp, but I do WANT that better-sounding 100% passive. G&L did it right with the SB-2, two volume controls, & that's IT. Unfortunately they still love those Fender-ish 250K Ohm pots for Volume. only kidding about tearing out my controls, I wish there weren't FIVE holes in the top, LOL!

I had been looking at Mouser & only just noticed you can scroll to the right for more specs, DOH! Looks like limited options, if you're not willing to buy in quantities of 100s.

"How many £ will you contribute to the purchase?" is what I would the person making the suggestion

The carbon paint measured 500 Ohms, which surprised me on a G&L that I owned, but it still worked to shield it. East is probably using the shielding to connect the pots together, like is common on a Jazz controls-plate. I've seen some Jazz controls-plates where there was no wire to the sleeve side of the output jack, because it's already connected to the metal plate.

Another difference I'm noticing is that the EHB never goes out of tune, but the SR will sometime need to be tuned UP a tad. The neck on that is less stiff. I did an 'experiment': https://www.talkbass.com/threads/comparing-neck-stiffness-ibanez-content.1351512

hmm, while I was reviewing what I wrote, it occurred to me that I forgot to change the direction the instrument was facing When I play indoors I'm almost invariably facing East, which fortunately for me is the 'sweet spot' where the noise is least. Out on the porch today I was facing South, which is the noisiest direction to be facing, DOH! I want to take it out there & see if changing position solves the issue, but everything is still wet from the rain.

That little Vox is a tube-amp, but a hybrid NuTube, when the Gain is cranked it's noisy like an all-tube amp. The environment matters as well, there's EMI going through here all the time. I can't even use a gOOgle ChromeCast or Amazon Firestick, the EMI is so great that it blocks the signal, in only a 3 Meter distance. I normally don't notice noise with the SR1800E, but at the time I had it blended back to mostly bridge pickup for that extra mids bite, & it was instantly noisy when I plugged in. fine once the pickups were balanced

Took the SR1800E out on the back porch today, the weather was really great: I'd been playing it quietly indoors for a long time, I guess all Winter. The first thing that I noticed was the NOISE when I cranked up the Gain & Volume. I guess I will keep my EHB as-is with the humbucking Big-Splits. I was struggling to come up with something to play, but not for long, because:

the very basic part of identifying intervals or notes I know, why I am even attempting to play Music w/o that very basic skill?

IF was included above, because I didn't know about the amp, but now I see it has two output sockets. Also, don't use adapters, that's just asking for a failure.

just connect one cab to each of the TWO speaker outputs: https://ashdownmusic.com/products/mag-600h-evo-iii

If it's a solid-state power-section, the 4 Ohms is the minimum Impedance, so 4 Ohms or greater is fine. If the amp doesn't have two speaker outputs, you'll have to daisy-chain speaker cables from one cab to the next for two cabs & it's best to have two identical cabs: if your cabinets only have 1 input jack, you can either install a 2nd jack in either or both or make up a speaker cable to daisy-chain

There are a couple of things that are probably the contributors, if he's not using bog-standard carbon-traces in the pots, & in the specs it specifies the active & passive paths are NOT the same, dual pathways still mystifies me. Another thing that I found peculiar is that East specifies in the installation instructions to use copper foil shielding. (and NOT to rely on carbon shielding from the manufacturer) I'm sure that info used to be on their FAQ page, but not at the moment. So I guess my question to the forum is: Where can I get pots that are better than the bog-standard carbon-trace ones? I might copper-shield mine & make it 100% passive if I could find better pots.

The answer is yes, because it can do either of those, but keep in mind a few things: if you make it series/parallel, when in series there will only be one functioning volume, you cannot blend those mini-toggles aren't as robust as the large ones designed for the purpose & are throw-away items when they fail, a proper toggle can be cleaned & maintained & last longer: one more thing, the toggle in the photo is only for 3-way pickup selection