Killed_by_Death

Ash scoops the mids a little, which most players enjoy. I prefer mids over scoop, personally.

I was 'one of those guys' in in the beginning, every bloody note was an Accent, LOL!

Sklar could hear a difference between woods, because he's playing through transparent gear & as you mentioned he has a light touch. Harris could probably play on a slab of granite & not notice a change, thanks to all that stuff in his signal-chain & his extra-strong attack.

Yeah, put a set of those noiseless Fender pickups in a Squier & it will sound just as badly, LOL!

Pickups & controls matter, but Johnny Bravo isn't going to magically transform his Basswood Squier into an instrument that sounds just like an Ash Fender by changing the pickups.

!@#$%in' 'ell, that was horrific!

William can hear with his eyes. It's a common problem with confirmation bias, LOL!

I'd urge anyone refinishing an instrument to consider going natural finish & just using a drying oil. I doubt many play it while there's no finish on it, but if they did I believe it would convince them to leave it that way.

not only was he drown out, he was virtually erased: The more I 'learn', the more I don't get it. I don't understand the praise some players get for playing relatively rudimentary arrangements.

I'm in Lamb of God country, they started the band in the same place GWAR came from. Here's the irony, I saw GWAR perform in L.A. at the Whisky, LOL! It's a constant struggle for me, finding bass arrangements in Heavy Metal or Punk that are not just a human metronome or copying the root from the guitar arrangement. Original Heavy Metal is the answer, Black Sabbath!

I used to have a Warlock bass with the Widow headstock, the damn thing was almost too long to fit in my automobile. Since then I look at fancy ones like that & think it would be cool to borrow for a day, but not to own. Kind of like a 3-day visit to Singapore, LOL!

everyone should do this with new instruments, tune them to pitch, now loosen all the neck screws, don't remove them, just loosen them see if the neck moves toward the body, it may 'snug up' a little more, now tighten the screws also check the bridge screws, I have had them arrive with loose screws machine-heads also, but that's easier when you do the first string-change I actually take the neck ALL the way off of screw-on necks, to look for shims, because the factory will use 'whatever was lying about', if it needs a shim, do it properly or just remove it

I'd rathe a B.C. Rich Virgo:

You don't actually want the wood to resonate, unless you like dead-spots. If the body wood is soft, it will sap away the high-end frequencies. If it's covered in 5 mm of finish, that also helps neuter the high-end.

I once posted a video of Paris Hilton washing an automobile, it was ALL over TV at the time, suspended for a month. She's fully clothed in the video.

IIRC the high-priced power-cable sellers want consumers to believe that stranded wire conducts better than solid.

They made the pickups in the M series G&Ls less output so that it would play nice with the BOOST knobs on the preamp. If you put the L series MFD pickup in with a BOOSTable EQ, someone could easily blow up some stuff.

That is exactly the last time I saw solid-conductor wire, in a home being built with wire that I had purchased. Earlier in the thread I mentioned SJOOW wire, it's designed for use with power-tools. that's the one to get for your speaker wire

The last time I saw solid-conductor wire (not stranded) was in 1999.

The MFD are The Highest Output passive pickups I've ever experienced, but especially so in Series. The Single switch position is where I left it, & eventually I realized that I just liked the Big Singles in my Premium Soundgear more, & my Soundgear was easier to play with the flat radius & a few hundred Grams lower-Mass My G&L ASAT had ruined me to that high output. I went shopping for a Rickenbacker & they all sounded so weak, in comparison.

DPDT is enough poles for a series/parallel between pickups, but for switching two pickups internally from series/parallel you'd either need two DPDT or one 4-pole switch. The magnetic coupling of coils in a split-coil would be less than a full-length humbucker. I had a G&L L-2000 with the series/single/parallel switching, four poles on the switch, & the output was much greater in series, as was the amount of lows, but those are full-length MFD humbuckers: BTW, that series/parallel switch is ONLY intra-pickup, not inter-pickup

The series/parallel switching between pickups has a bit of a compromise that's a bigger issue when you're using *humbuckers (in this case split-coil humbuckers), when the switch is in Series you can't blend the pickups, & that is the time when you'd most want to blend them. Series Volume/Volume seems like a nice solution to that, because you can blend all you like & if you want high (like parallel wiring) you just roll back the neck pickup. *humbuckers have more coils & thus more Inductance, putting them in Series lowers the Resonant peak, resulting in more lows maybe too many lows if all 4 coils are in Series I noticed East posted a few times on TalkBass, but seems to have gone silent there. I honestly expected him to be a member here.

no, as per my explanation above, they're in series internally, I'd like to hear them in parallel internally

The default internal wiring for the Big-Splits is series. In the photo you can see three wires from each pickup, one is chassis-Ground. For parallel (internal) switching you'd need to have 4 conductors available, all 4 ends of the two coils. (2 x 2)