BassmanPaul

How things have come full circle! When I was using tube amps in the Sixties and Seventies, I couldn't get rid of the distortions. In fact no one could. Some, like Lemmy, embraced the distortion while others, me included, tried their very best to overcome it. I designed and built 50, 100 and 150 watt tube amps but was not happy until I left them all behind. I still like designing with tubes but leave the heavy lifting to SS circuitry. Tubes for the pre-amp evey time.

I couldn't live without my Low B. I find that the choice of fingerings that a Six provides gives it great versatility.

Hey you! I play mostly six string basses! LOL

What used to give me pause were the Guitar players who used 'curly' cables between their amps and speaker cabinets!

You must have been in a Midsomer Night's Dream all those years.

You do realize that SWR have been out of business for quite a few years? LOL If any of those amps fail it's quite likely that the output devices are no longer available.

You might find this link to be interesting: https://www.talkbass.com/wiki/technical-amplifier/#39-protecting-the-rectifier-tube-from-flashover Paul

Diodes I used were UF5408. A 4007 should have worked too but maybe not as well.

Did you put them in the right way around? Positive of the diode to each anode of the GZ34. I can't remember which device I used but I'll try to find out for you.

All the amplifiers I own are capable of running in Bridge. I have a Carvin BX1500 and a bunch of Class D power amps. That said I have never felt the need to run in bridge, it releases way too much power for my needs.

Amps using bridge mode need to have the amp end wired +1 and +2 and the cabinet end wired +1 and -1. Dang! Andy beat me to it - AGAIN!!! LOL

The combination of a 1x15 with a 4x10 is a poor one. The 15 has no hope of keeping up with a 4x10 and will eventually fail.

I've never had any trouble with SpeakOns then again I only will use genuine Neutrik brand connectors. Knock off connectors made in China and other Far East countries have been shown to be unreliable. As for troubleshooting it's best to keep your brain active and not panic - difficult though that may be.

Enjoy!!

A change I did make to my unit was to remove the "Polarity' switch and it's capacitor. I then relocated the 'Standby' from the rear apron to where the 'Polarity' switch was. I tried a couple of different drivers in the cabinet, JBL Altec, but liked the original square magnet the best. It's what's in there now. Another change was to wire a fast recovery silicon rectifier in series with the plates/anodes of the GZ34/5AR4. This eliminated a flash over problem that reared it's ugly head. I'd recommend anyone with an original B15 to do the same mod. It increases the PIV of the rectifier system.

I'm not very good at pics but I will try.

I have to say that my 60s B15NF is the best damn practice amp I have ever owned. It will stay with me to the end.!

The gentleman who made my Acme cabinets only does speaker cabinets thus my answer is no. My amplifier consists of a 2KW capable Class D Stereo power amp, made by Carvin, that is driven by a tube pre-amp of my own design and construction.

I must admit that having an elevator in my home makes moving my stuff in and out much easier! LOL

Wus!

Just as a comment: to get twice as loud you would need to increase power by ten times.

The distance only needs to be a few inches. Just saying'

If you go this route, stack them on their ends for a vertical 4x10. In my mind they are the best for dispersion around the room.

@spongebob I hope it serves you well. Enjoy.