Bigguy2017

Pretty straightfoward... it needs the short toggle switch. Managed to do it via the F hole - tie some twine onto the old switch to help fishing in the new one... Hagstrom Viking Bass switching LAYOUT 01C.pdf Hagstrom Viking Bass switching LAYOUT 03A toggle.pdf

Re Hagstrom Viking - good and bad The good - it's an affordable semi and has a good solid thumpy sound. The bad - the crappiest selector switch ever, ergonomic issues - like all the semis with a trapeze tail piece, the bridge ends up being halfway up the body, so you have to shove the thing well to the right to get to a sensible plucking position. After a fret level and replacing the 6 way rotary switch with a Switchcraft toggle (and binning the coil taps) I am a lot happier... I suggest trying one before buying. Sound wise it's good and the slim neck is great. I'd look at a Guild Starfire as the best (?) option. YMMV

Screw (part # 05106) available here Rickenbacker 4003/4001 Bridge Pickup Height Screw - 05106 - For Everything Rickenbacker It's a M/S 10-32 x 11/4 RD PH I believe Spring is Bridge Pickup Height Springs x 2 for Rickenbacker 4000 Series - For Everything Rickenbacker 4003 parts.pdf b pickups.pdf

Maybe tap to a larger size thread and fit a Helicoil?

The magnetic fields overlap and phase does make a difference on the A and D.

??? Pickups will then be out of phase? P pickups are wired RWRP. It's pssible/probable (?) the two coils are wound the same direction and simply reversed for one half, with flipped magnets. IF so one coil will be 'hot end out' and one 'earth end out' rather than wound CW and CCW. That could explain the noise. Check the magnets' polarity (with a DVM and an allen key) - each PuP half should be opposite polarity, and coils should be opposite wind. It can help to ground the pole pieces - one each PuP stick a strip of conductive copper tape along the underside of the pole pieces and connect to the cold terminal.

Yes, my experience too... the string retainer bends and the string takes pretty much the same path as before... The Sandberg triple tree is far better but then it's down to looks...

Make the neck straight (using truss rod adjustment) - confirm with a notched straight edge. Adjust saddle height screws to get desired action at 12th fret (1.5 - 2.0mm ?). If the saddle heights are way out of range (too high or too low) then shim the neck for correct neck angle... Check nut slot height is good. Should now be in the ball park - any problems? If individual frets are causing buzz then a level, crown and polish (partial or full fretboard) is indicated.

A s/h Squier Mustang bass in a padded gigbag - cheap, robust, replaceable, easy to find strings.

A long story... scratching my itch for a semi-acoustic bass I got my mitts on a Hagstrom Viking in natty sunburst. After a good clean and a setup I slapped on some GHS medium Scale flats and got down to playing. The good - some nice plunky '60s tones. The bad - neck dive (OK with grippy strap), odd ergonomics - the brige is up near the centre of the body (20 frets to body neck) which means your right hand falls over the bridge - you have to shove everything to the right to get anywhere near the neck pickup. The worst selector switch - a rotary six way (A / A+B / B and same with coil splits) with chicken head knob - a right flimsy crackly mess. Replaced with a Switchcraft short toggle (binned the meh coil splits) - so much better. Didn't play it a lot TBH, but when bro came round for a soul jam it seemed appropriate - out came the Hagstrom showing a big ding at the lower body edge. Closer inspection shows the top coming away from the side - hmmm... I did not knock it, it's been safe in the rack - and I live alone with no pets... looks like the glue gave out under pressure? Out with the G cramps and leather pads but no way will the gap close without totally crushing the thing... So any ideas for a fix? Drip in CA glue to stabilise? Sand down the high part and attempt a finish touch up?

Don't worry about it... people can ask any stupid price - it's what people will pay that counts.

Yes, this is an annoying 'feature' - at practice volume in the house, the DI output is very low level - the Master Vol should be at the input of the Power Amp not before the EQs

If you have a bass preamp or amp with a line level out you only need a headphone amp with two inputs Behringer Miniamp 800 V2 - Andertons Music Co.

Here's inside one I had open a few years back...