Bigguy2017

So, the speaker output jack works into an external cab? Therefore signal must be present at the jack socket. Take a close look at the speaker out jack socket - if it's the switching type make sure the contacts are closing without a jack in place - push down on the contacts. Pull off the red + blk speaker spade connectors at the PCB end (LS1 + LS2) - with a DVM check for continuity to the speaker. If no DVM then put a AA battery across these terminals - speaker should click... I can't find a schematic for this combo - Ashdown will supply one I'm assume...

Short scale ?

Fender 7250 ?

Remove the valve and check the voltages on the valve socket - carefully... You're looking for +15 VDC on 6+8 (heaters) and +40 to +150 VDC (HT) on pin 4. You have tried another (known good?) valve... If voltages are there, clean and tighten the valve socket contacts (obvs. with power off and drained!) and have a good look for a cracked PCB trace around the valve socket. Measure the values of R2, R12, R13 and C6 - anything open circuit?

The knob is a collet knob. To remove the knob you have to spin the outer brass ring anticlockwise - use a pair of needle nose pliers in the two slots to get it loose. Once the collet is loose the knob will pull off. Then it's a normal pot with a nut + washer - use a spanner...

Nice... matching + contrasting.

Sizes I use are; Fender saddle height screws (Mex + MIJ) ------------------------------------------- M3 grub screws - cone (or cup / dome) point M3 x 10mm M3 x 12mm M3 x 16mm (1.5mm allen key) Fender USA ------------ 1/16" bass (6-32) 0.050" guitar (4-40) www.modelfixings.com (or similar supplier) M3 x 12mm MF-GS37S

Like franzbassist said, best is to buy a selection of screws in Long, Med, Short. Do the bass setup and when you're happy, replace the screws with ones of best length - keep the 'wrong uns' for later use. This plan works best when you have many basses using the same type of screws...

That looks all original spec for Japan.

Hmmm... that looks like the sheared off end of the truss rod

Most of the advertised 'P90 screws' are Jazz Bass / P Bass PuP screws at 2.6 or 2.8mm and don't fit many P90s - even though they are advertised as 'P90 screws'. Even the Hosco ones are 2.6mm x 40mm. 2.5mm x 38mm is the correct size ( I think) - I got some nickel ones from Armstrong Music https://www.armstrongmusic.co.uk/products/p90-pickup-mounting-screw-nickel-bag-of-4?variant=47225709199642

You can usually pry / pop out the hard foam liners with a 4" paint scraper or similar to access the ABS shell. I've had good results with glass fibre tape and epoxy - the trick is getting the broke bits back to where they belong and level. Any holes or missing pieces can be filled with epoxy or black Milliput - Plastikote satin black spray paint covers things nicely.