Bigguy2017

Similar experiences in my teens. Jack cables were jack cables (and generally crap). But then again no-one was using more than 100W - usually less. Big transistor PA amps were what first raised concerns - MM Electronics rack units were 400W (?) and used XLRs - that's when we started making 'speaker' cables with mains twin core. The jacks themselves were always border line, XLRs not much better, current wise, and then Neutrik introduced Speakons.

Some in-out with a Krackle Killer and Deoxit D5 works wonders. Bending the contact is a bodge - better to order a new Switchcraft jack... which will last decades... The worst are the tubular jacks which need replacing every few (?) years. Avoid cheapo 'gold plated' connectors - whatever they are plated with (it aint gold) quickly wears off and gums up the jack contacts.

Best would be try for spares from the manufacturer. As other NZ poster suggested, try your local model shop for someone with a small lathe who can turn you up some new ones. A harder type of brass or bronze would be better. A cheap fix would be to clean and degrease the holes, fill with metal loaded epoxy (Epoxy Steel etc. from eBay) then cut and file screwdriver slots.

First try re-seating the valves.

Can you reverse the magnets? If so you could do a RWRP humbucking thing. EA in parallel, DG in parallel, then EA in series with DG like a P bass...

Nah, it needs a tone control.

Try lowering the pickup(s) on the G side.

Not perspex - too brittle and will likely crack when drilling fixing holes near the edge. Some sort of styrene / ABS ? What do people generally use? 2.5 - 3.0mm sheet.

Double a piece of wet and dry around a thinner string (the old set will do nicely) and use that to form the slots. Start coarse and polish with fine. Cut slots at the same angle as the headstock - angle A + D slots toward the tuners. Mask off the headstock (remove truss rod cover) and fretboard to avoid scratches. Measure / offer up string frequently. Capo on fret three and 10-20 thou between fret one and string is a good start... You could improvise a GroovBar type of thing to get the depths in the ball park and prevent cutting too deep. Cutting too deep is bad... very bad. Take your time, measure often and all will be well - worst case is a new nut. 😉

As suggested clean the FX send + return jacks. It sounds more like a intermittent dry joint coming and going with warm up Do a thorough visual inspection looking for bad soldering, leaking or domed capacitors, loose connectors etc. To localise, try powering it on with the cover off and tapping / poking with a wooden chop stick. Tap the components and connectors. Flex the PCB. If you do reproduce the fault then reflow the solder joints in that area.

On your exterior door you need to weld the hinge pins in place, otherwise they can be drifted out and the door removed.

I give a few to a model maker mate of mine. He uses them for pilot's oxygen hoses amongst other things...

A Columbus Jazz, sunburst with block markers, was my first 'proper' bass. I paid £80 for it, new, in a Brum music shop in 1973 (?). It worked - you could play bass on it... The Fender Musicmaster was a big upgrade.

Got to agree... I like the Rockboard flat cables RockBoard RBO CAB PC F 10 BLK Flat Patch Cable, 10cm (gak.co.uk) I can't make them for that price. I've got an iron set up ready and a bag of bits so making up cables is not a chore, but only really necessary for custom lengths. I've been soldering and making cables for over 40 years so it's no hassle - quite enjoyable and meditative when you're all set up with the bits and bobs.... 🙂

Maybe they fit the stacked pot for two pickup models? So why not save a few bucks and use a single pot with the single pickup... Strange.

Hmmm... as drawn that second 250K pot does nothing.

Oh, forgot; they have separate solder tags for screen and signal too, and an insulator sheet... Use a Philips 1 screwdriver.

I rate the Hicon flat angled jacks. They fit tightly onto Sommer XXL cable - even tighter with an H3 sleeve. Use some Tippex or nail varnish on the screws.

Am I missing something here? They sound stinky poo in the demo.

If you must scour them use a Scotchbrite pad and some isopropyl alcohol.. Wire wool will leave sharp bits of metal everywhere.

Double, no, triple Congratulations!

That is really good. Great playing and tone.

A notched ruler is essential to get the neck straight for levelling. One for bass on for guitars (Crimson). A beam and abrasive paper - the self adhesive 3M Stikit Gold is the my favourite (320 + 600) . Short and long beams for bass and guitar, (Guitars & Woods aluminium beams are excellent) . Crowning files - these are the hardest to get right; all the cheap stuff is crap, maybe OK for a single neck. Diamond V files are the quickest (Chris Alsop Guitar ones are very good). Safe edge triangle files (Crimson) work well but are a lot of work for 48 fret sides... Have yet to try StewMac diamond files. For polishing it's micromesh pads 3200 - 12000, keep them wet and use moderate pressure... Masking tape on a dispenser (StewMac) speeds things up too... A 600mm straight edge for guitar, 900mm for bass. A fret rocker. A string action guage (the black Stringtec one is good). Better get some nut files - I like the UO-Chikyu - Hiroshima ones - the StewMac diamond ones look the business (10 files 0.010 to 0.135 cover bass and guitar). All the above is not cheap, but once bought the hardware will last a lifetime and it means you can tackle mostly any guitar and bass. So, the crucial question is, how much use will they get? If you own multiple instruments it's a worthwhile investment, and you can turn s/h bargains into great instruments. Some of the above will do for a single guitar... Avoid the cheap eBay options as they're mostly rubbish; buy the good stuff bit by bit and it will last.

A good old fashioned hand drill is perfect for this. Check junk shops and car boot sales... It has to be an old, twin pinion job - everything modern I have seen is chanky junk.

Yeh, but it could make your stinky poos smell of bass....