Bigguy2017

Get both, try them, send one back... 😉 It's the only way to be sure. IMHO the J pup is pretty useless on a Mustang, simply not needed. JMJ is the best of the Mustangs (If you like the neck width and can't find a great 70's one)... Road worn? Meh, who cares - it's going to get some dings eventually and pre-dinged is kind of liberating.... YMMV

Yes, it's like old Telecasters... they're a kind of Zen. They say "look how amazing I am, I can play amazing stuff on the simplest of all instruments, I don't need fancy tools 'cos I have super subtle skills..." 😉

Flip it over for a bit of sole music?

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See AVB Ecosystem Checklist | PreSonus

I'm not totally familiar with the specific desk BUT... It's either; AVB network cable faulty - try another CAT6 cable Select the Right Ethernet Cable | PreSonus Setup in the mixer - does Aux over AVB have to be enabled in a setup menu? Mixer firmware issue - have you updated to the latest version? It's unlikely both stage boxes are faulty (unless there is a firmware version incompatibility). Can't think of anything else...

Just as an experiment try a radically different amp / cab setup too... I have a thing in the house where any bass through my tc 2 x 8" combo has a hugely loud A. Something to do with the speakers and room dimensions I think. Plug into the Rumble 1x 15" combo and it all sounds fine.

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Stick them on with a blob of silicon sealer - you will be able to get them off when required

Sounds like output B is dead - so bridge mode isn't going to work.

Hmmm... tricky one this... The LH1000 has two 500W power modules, like a stereo amp. Page 12 of the manual says use a 'standard Speakon cable' - would this be two or four pin / conductors??? I'm guessing (!) that the 4 pin speakon out is wired as two 500W pairs, and in bridge mode you connect a single speaker between the 1+ and the 2+ as is usual with bridging stereo amps ?. Not enough info in the manual. LHseries_OM_EN_v2.pdf (samsontech.com)

So, if it's not alien influence what was it? Hard to tell now it's all OK again. Possibilities? Dry joint in the amp (input) bumped in transit. Send/return jacks problem. Amp fault - SMPSU not firing up. If it happens again plug a (good) jack cable into the input and touch the tip... anything? This is the basic test of "is the amp working ?"'. Tuner can be used to test cables - give them a flex all along their length. Plug a jack cable into send/returns... switch jacks can go o/c Try some 'percussive maintenance' on the amp - this can detect dry joints and loose connections.. Have a good look inside the amp - look for bad soldering, swollen/leaking caps, loose plugs etc. Why did the acoustic work? Cold just be chance + an intermittent problem. Can't think of anything else.

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Try tightening the truss rod a quarter turn - any better at all? Neck should (!) now be nearly straight... check the neck bolts are not loose. If the action is still too high, ) you will need a small shim in the neck pocket to tilt the neck back a little bit.

IF it's 'mechanical' bypass via the switch (a 3 pole - 9 pins switch) it could have one pole faulty; this would fit the symptoms. Try shorting across the switch. If it's all done electronically on the main board then it's something else... 😉 FET or opamp failure or possible just a dry joint.

The new Stingrays are certainly very nice, but they're not THAT nice to pay £3K for. If you shop around and bide your time you can get a 'Ray, with case, for well under £1K.

Could be many things. First place to start is dried out electrolytic capacitors. Have a real good, close look at all the electrolytics, looking for doming, swelling or leakage. A duff decoupling cap could be the culprit.

I wanted to replace the mute pads on my '88 Stingray and I can't seem to source just the pads - whole mute kits are sometimes available. So, I got to thinkin', they're only foam rubber pads... Sourced some EPDM self-adhesive gasket and after some measurin' and figurin' decided that 8mm thick and 20mm wide was ideal. Amazon supplied Neoprene Rubber Black Self-adhesive Sponge Strip 20mm wide x 8mm thick x 5m long: Amazon.co.uk: Welcome and after a bit of Blue Peter with a knife I had new mute pads. Work just fine too. It would be easier to do this at a string change, but slackening off was enough. I've got enough for a lifetime now... 😉

That headstock looks home made - the wiring clip string trees are genius. I've seen that bridge before - on a Framus or Eko maybe?

OK... To start, make up a lead with a jack on one end, for your amp, and a pair of croc clips on the other end. This is most useful for fault-finding... Clip croc clips to pickup wires (pup disconnected from wiring loom). Is the pickup working? - That'll be a yes... 😉 Solder pickup wires to volume pot (outside pins). Clip croc leads to ground and centre pin - does volume pot now work? Solder output cable to pot (centre and earth). Connect a regular jack cable to the output jack - all working? Solder tone control and cap into place - still working?

Sounds like the switch is dodgy. Many of the cheap chinese switches are prone to fail.

Does your pre-amp pedal run off a plug-in DC supply? If it's a regular double insulated power supply it's not earthed (probably has a plastic earth pin), so there is no path to earth. Touching the bass's metal work earths it via your body, and stops the buzz... Normally the pre-amp would plug into a power amp and that would be earthed. Take a piece of single wire and touch it onto the pre-amp's casing (if metal) or jack socket - touch the other end on something grounded . If this cures the buzz you could plug a cable into a spare pre-amp out (?) and ground the cable's screen to some nearby piece of kit.

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I mark the date on the new battery with a sharpie - when I come to change the battery it's always older than I imagined... The Stingray got a new battery two years ago and it's still OK.

As the other posters have stated, the only way that's coming out is to jam something into the nut. Filing/sanding a slight taper on the flats of a allen key can work. If you can get enough reach with a Dremel and a 'dentist' bit you could cut a couple of slots in the nut (doesn't have to be tidy) and use a large, flat blade screwdriver.