Bigguy2017

Are you using an HPF on the Studio Live ? Put lots of cut below 35Hz - 50-Hz ish... Could be lots of low frequency mush overloading the input.

Shawn Colvin tonight at The Queen's Hall Edinburgh

Three Sisters 2012 American Standard Jazz Bass V 2015 American Standard Precision Bass 2010 MIJ Mustang Bass

Hi-mass bridges, in my experience, don't change tone much but do effect note attack/delay/sustain. My Ric's pot metal bridge was tail lifting, preventing a playable low action. Replaced with the Hipshot Ric bridge - went with the heavier chromed brass version to help with neck dive. Being unhappy with the base flatness I flatted it with wet 'n' dry. The Ric is now completely different - notes sustain for ever, hardly decay at all - it sounds like a bass synth. Still sounds like a Ric, but more so - certainly different, but for my usage, not better - would be great for doom metal. Playing wise, it's eliminated neck dive and allows a much lower action. Not a fan of Hi-mass bridges - the one I do like is the Fender 007 000 5124 American Standard Bass Bridge (High Mass Vintage ?)- the one like a chunkier BBOT. My totally favourite MIJ Jazz has a bog standard BBOT bridge and I love it. I started by typing "Hi-mass brides" - something else entirely

Audio Technica ATH-M50 for over-ears KZ-ZS10 Pro X driven by Hotone Thunder Bass nano amp for IEMs

Thomann or Amazon when the price is right.

A pair of Rode M3s or if you want super cheap the Behringer C-2 Stereoset

Needle-nose pliers - carefully

That's what's called 'motorboating'... something has gone into oscillation. Many possible causes - bad connections, dry joint, bad cap, bad component among them.

When does a 'copy' become a fake? With the brand labels this is clearly a fake.

Does she do 'Don't Kill The Whale' next?

The body has a massive split with some very dodgy glue...

Yes, that's all original Fender Japan wiring.

The Neutrik website and catalogue are no help - they still have the discontinued models - very confusing. I've got a few NL4FX on hand, and they're still in stock with CPC / RS but if I need more it might have to be the newer ones NL4FXX 37 A 250 V AC NLT4FXX 30 A 250 V AC NLT4FXX-BAG 30 A 250 V AC

Even the Neutrik ones are different thicknesses - here's an NL2FC, an NL4FX, and an NL4FC. Weird....

Orchestras do this all the time...

You can wiggle a bit of pipe insulation over the left-hand arm bit - this helps offset basses sit level

The Palmer AHMCT8 one does Speakons - and it has probes + buzzer - very handy £46 inc P+P at Thomann https://www.thomann.de/gb/adam_hall_ahmct8.htm

Nice to see Gandalf doing a bit of sax work.

Using the 12th fret for measuring action height makes calculations for saddle height and neck angle easier. 1mm change at 12th equals 2mm adjustment at the bridge saddles.

They could all be on the same ring main

I'd try a with wiring check plug at Rehearsal room 1 - It may have a missing earth ;-(

Here's something https://www.talkbass.com/threads/ric-bass-wiring-diagrams.1218400/

Could be many things.... The way to approach it is to prep a cable with 1/4" jack (amp) to croc clips. Start with the pickups- unsolder at the pots and connect to the amp with the croc clips - how do they both sound? Next, wire pickup to a volume pot (disconnect tone pots) - does it still sound good - does the volume pot work as expected? Next connect the tone pots (one at a time) - do these work like tone pots? Next, the switch.... croc leads on the 'output' - do all three positions work as expected? If all is good then so far you have two working pickups, two working vol pots, two working tone pots and a working switch OR you will have found some problems to fix... Finally reconnect the output jacks - these are a flippin' nightmare on Rics with the whole Ric-O- Sound stereo / mono switching. It's often easier to fully rewire than try fixing previous dodgy fixes. I'm looking for a good Ric 4003 wiring diagram - best I could find is this... what you really want is a diagram with the parts and wiring shown as-is.