
jb90
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Everything posted by jb90
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Hi guys. Quick question about capo for bass. I need something to hold the strings on the first fret so I can measure relief during bass setups. That's all. Simple "holder". Any thoughts and advices? What should I buy to get a solid capo with bass? I always use my left hand and right arm to press strings to the last fret but it's always a pain in the a** to get good and easy measurements. Thanks in advance.
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Sorry, I should have been more clear! Here’s the one I use: https://www.richtonemusic.co.uk/product/jim-dunlop-jd-84fb-trigger-capo-flat-black/?gclid=CjwKCAiAzanuBRAZEiwA5yf4unF-bLu9PLLQg127bqnTelvGajkrUD59fawrcxbGmmEocqCh2gMc8RoCJaEQAvD_BwE
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For the record, I use the above model on my 5 string basses which all have fairly flat fingerboard radii. You may wish to opt for the more curved model for basses with a more rounded fingerboard radius.
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Hi guys. Any thoughts about how to choose better pickup and electronics for my Ernie Ball Musicman StingRay 4 3band eq?
I want more mids and less treble than in factory pickup and electronics. Which one will be best in my case? There's so much options on market and I almost always bump my mids and cut some treble on my Stingray so I need something that it will be more transparent and flat sounding or at least more mids and less treble. Thanks!- Show previous comments 5 more
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They're not as important for bassists as they are for guitarists. Just get some pickups that can give you everything you want to hear. Although bear in mind they're passive (therefore subtractive) in their effect which means they can take frequencies away but they can't add them. Also, they are fairly coarse in how they respond so you can ask for a peak but it's quite wide in it's bandwidth, you can ask for highs to be taken away and added but if you add them then usually there is a sacrifice in warmth. Conversely if you want warmth then you can get it but it means the pickup becomes woollier sounding - although that can be remedied to a small extent with magnet type (ceramics) and wire (thicker). But where that leaves the mid peak you asked for after all the faff is anyone's guess.
As for preamp, if you're nit picky then get something which gives you the control you want. The frequency centres can be quite important for bass, mid and treble.
But if you are looking for a particular timbre (ie. how can I make this bass sound more like a Smith/Rickenbacker/Status/Alembic), neither will give it to you by themselves. -
@Higgie Great sound! I'm corious how it sounds in fretted StingRay but on your fretless there's a lot good growly mids which I like in bass. It's always give you sound that break through the mix. Thanks. And how you solve problem that the input jack is in different place than in original StingRay bass?
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Hi guys. I have quick question about strings. I wanna try 55-110 EB Cobalt flatwounds or even "Jamerson set" LaBella for standard tuning. My question is: Are these strings are not too stiff and have too much tension to set them in standard? Will I have to cut nut slots more or factory cutted slots will be ok for so thick strings? I used to use 50-105 and everything was ok but I'm afraid that when I cut them more it will be too much for smaller gauge strings.
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I've not yet tried the EB Cobalt flats, but I'm a fan of Jameson Labella's and I've been using them for years. I currently have them on two precisions and a jazz... and numerous others in the past. I've never needed to cut the nut, they fit just fine. I love the sound of TI Jazz flats but swapping between basses/strings and the differences in tension is disconcerting. When you get used to the extra tension of the Labellas, 'normal' strings start to seem a bit too floppy. The stiffness allows me to get the action a shade lower than I would with your average rounds, which means less pressure needed to fret, so for me these things even themselves out. They last for decades, sound great and mellow with age. I'd say try a set. You see used sets for sale occasionally on this forum. I don't understand "too much tension to set them in standard?", you might want to adjust the relief in the neck to suit, but you might want to do that for another brand of string. Good luck.
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Hello. Is there any studio/sideman bass player here?
I want to ask what producers and engineers want from bass players today. I mean which basses, amps, effects and all king of gear is a must for session/studio player to provide the best demanding sounds and effortless quality in the stage/studio? Really need to change my gear to be most versatile for any scenario as possible. Many thanks!
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Follow someone like Dave Swift on Instagram. He posts details of his studio sessions most days, that'll give you an idea of what to expect. With regard to playing, they need you to nail the part as quickly as possible, maybe a couple of runs through first. You'll either be given chords written out, or maybe a part actually notated.
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@jb90 My own basses are Fenders, and my passive P with old flatwounds sounds very good DI'd, and sites nicely in the mix for a lot more styles than you'd expect. I like Stingrays too - I don't think turning up with a Stingray is going to lose you work! Just make sure you are versatile in how you can play it, that's the main thing. You can cover most styles with a P, J, Stingray or variations on those themes. In fact, I'd probably be happy with a switchable active/passive PJ bass as my only bass!
But perhaps old flatwounds are a good option to bring as well - as I said they can be far more versatile than one thinks.
If its a good studio, chances are there will be some decent bass guitar options there as well - don't be offended if they prefer the sound of one of studio basses to your own, just enjoy the experience.
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What do you think guys? Does bass cab with 2x12 without tweeter will be a good solution? 2 12'' can do the job without a tweeter ? (Eminence Beta 12A) Could you advice me some "boutique" high end stuff? I don't wanna another "factory" speaker. Thanks.
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I have no tweeters anymore. I used to think that having extended frequency response was desirable because... you can always remove it if you don't want it, right? But I found that quite often the tweeter just added harshness too easily. The best one I had personal experience of was the Barefaced BigBaby 2 (single 12", but they make a 2x12 version too). The attenuation control worked very well and even full on was not harsh. So there are some cabs out there that work well. But in the end I found I just don't need to go that high. My main cabs roll off at 7 KHz and they have plenty top end that still doesn't get fizzy if I add overdrive.
So, no, I don't think you need tweeters. Of course, some people love them so it depends on what you're after, but for what it's worth I am not into dark 'old school' sounds. I like versatility, mix fingerstyle/pick/slap and can go quite bright at times, and I can get all that without tweeters.
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Hi guys. Do you know when results of Rotosound Competition will be available?