Jimothey

Very informative Christine, I know you have concerns about your writing which you really have no need to be the way you explain things in such an articulate way is brilliant and with your vast knowledge you really should consider writing a book, I knew most of what you have said but I've also learnt some new things that didn't even cross my mind? I now use the sand paper method to flatten the bases after some theiving little ******'s broke into my van and stole most of my tools along with my steel lapping plate which I found so quick and easy to use to flatten the backs of chisels and planer bases 😀

Yeah I was maybe the same as you only used hide glue for veneering but I used this method on my neck thru build and in my opinion this works just as well and a lot easier than getting the hot pot out, also the smell of hide glue used to turn my stomach so that's a bonus!! 😀

Just waiting for the lacquer to dry overnight then I can flatten it and do the final coat The pickguard has ended up a bit more glossy than I first thought it would but it still looks OK so I reckon the body will be glossy too 😀

I wouldn't be able to get my leg that high to use that technique, so fair play to you!! 😁

I know that things can be held relatively secure but I wouldn't trust holding the weight of the bass with just gaffer tape??

On my Tangocaster build thread Andy gave me some advice and showed some pics of how he got over a couple neck dive problems maybe have a read of it, it might give you some ideas?

So far looking at these you are succeeding in converting me to the charms of the TB!! They are looking great!! 😀

Yeah but it would have probably been a Fender if I lived in Shropshire!! 😁 This one is a bit rough around the edges and I'm going to have to reshape the headstock a little bit as it's got a chunk missing out of the back of it but all in all not bad!! 😁

On the final stretch now!! Pickguard and body have just a had a couple of coats of clear satin lacquer just to deepen the colour a bit (not a big fan of gloss painted) Tuners and string tree have been re-fitted just got to print off the new headstock logo tonight and fit it then hopefully I'll be able to get it all back together 😀 On a completely separate note was chucking some rubbish in the skip at work and stumbled across this: I think I'll just give it a bit if a tart up and hopefully sell it for a couple of quid to put towards my neck thru build

Congrats!! 😁

I think that looks great mate!! my Yellow P bass is almost done but I'm having the same quandary you were having about whether I should change the hardware to black but Im probably going to stick with the original chrome 😀

Yeah I agree with you both but I've decided to leave it off now anyway

Lovely job!!

That definitely could be the next projects colour scheme!! 👍

Ooohhhh errrr missus 😁 It didn't look that big when the body was chequered??

I dont think I'm going to use the bridge cover as I'm not sure if it looks right??

Just a quick update, I've now finished spraying the front and the headstock, the back needs just 1 more coat then I'll leave it for a few days to dry then I'll be getting it all back together 😀

Stunning bass mate!! I'm scared of a fretless I can barely find the right notes on a fretted!! 😁

I agree with you I've sharpened chisels palm slapped and not and as you say there's no difference between the two it's just because I've done it that way for so long I now do it without thinking I'm the same I have tried nearly every different new technique but I do use the Diamond ones as they are really convenient to use as a quick thing when I'm out on site, the worst I've ever bought was the Trend fast-track what a waste of £50!!

Apart from the fact of you've got some stunning looking basses there! The main question I've got going through my head is HOW BIG IS YOUR SOFA!! 😁

I agree with what your saying re the burr but I can't see how just pulling the chisel backwards will remove the burr as the burr will be on the opposite edge to sharpened edge and if you keep on sharpening it it will eventually break the burr off anyway hence the palm slapping might save you time or do you mean then after sharpening turning the chisel over so the back is flush with the stone then pull backwards to remove the burr?? I got taught how to sharpen chisels and blades Inc palm slapping by a gentleman in his 80's with over 60 years cabinet making experience so who am I to question his technique and at the Good Woodworking show about 8 years ago Kevin Leys and Andy Standing did a masterclass on a few topics and 1 of them was Sharpening and that's the method they used to remove the burr so I don't know what to say maybe it's just the old "there's more than 1 way to skin cat" who can say which way is right or wrong if it works for you then that's all that matters 😀

I hope you don't think I was being funny with my last comment, I just meant what you said makes perfect sense and that I've been doing it a certain way for all these years which I thought was the right way to do it but you've opened my eyes to another method of sharpening 😀

I meant re the blade overheating when linishing not sharpening Good to know that I've been doing it wrong for almost 20 years!! 🙄

I must be a bit weird as I always take the burr off by slapping the chisel at an angle on my hand then the other way (it's a bit difficult to describe??) or by running the chisel edge downwards on the corner of a scrap bit of timber, well that's how I was taught by an old cabinet maker and to never go straight when sharpening always do a figure of 8 so to wear the stone evenly As far as honing compound you wouldn't use that at the end as honing is getting the chisel/blade to the correct angle or free from chips/dents before you sharpen it well that's what I've always thought anyway?? The compound I've used at the end is more to polish and stop the blade from getting too hot than a cutting compound?? 😀

Ebay has got the exact same block inlay stickers that come from Japan for £7.69 with free p&p instead of £12.20 off Amazon 😀