Jimothey

That maybe is true or is it I’ve just got taste!!!

My vote is Mint or Gold like in the previous pics The pics of tort made me throw up in my mouth a little bit......

I’m still with Basswood

I’m not 100% sure but I would say is it was more like Tulipwood or Basswood I definitely doesn’t look like Pine or Ash to me How heavy is it?

That’s cool then hopefully I’ll get the body all glued up over the weekend while I’m at work and get it all cut Im still not 100% sure whether to have the sapele on the top or bottom??

I’ve started trying to get the new body resized and glued up but the body works out to be 40mm thick so I didn’t know whether to put a 3mm constructional veneer in between to make it a little bit thicker, but Im sure I’ve read somewhere that Warwick basses only have a 41mm thick body so it might be thick enough??......

Very nice looking bass so far watching with interest!!!

A very expensive one by the sounds of it!! where did you get it from and do they have anymore?

I agree with sibob Walnut especially as it has some lighter sapwood in it....... But saying that looking again the Wenge looks lovely too.....

Car paint dries/hardens a lot quicker than Nitro does, nitro is ready to wet sand after about 3-4 weeks I always use car paints and normally I wet sand after about 48hrs.......

Dartfords white nitrocellulose primer on eBay for the same price as Northwest Guitars https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F191682601180 But they are out of stock of the Gloss aerosol aswell

Im still not feeling too confident in my abilities at the mo so I’m thinking that maybe I’ll build up to trying to veneer and perhaps do that on my scratch build I’ve got planned as that will be a flat top with slightly eased corners so it will be a bit easier So on this one I’m gonna use the sapele on bottom and the paulownia on top then when I shape it will be a lot easier

@Andyjr1515 thanks for doing that for me it has made it a bit clearer and also exactly how difficult it will probably be When it comes to the end of the horn would it be worth cutting a few little v’s out of the end to help smooth it over or do you reckon that may cause it to split more?? The veneer is paper backed so I don’t know if that will make any difference to how it will bend as I’ve only ever used real wood veneer before (if you know what I mean??) Thanks again, everyone is in for a treat at the bass bash watching you do it live!!

Oooohh I’ve just made a mess of my trousers!!!!!! They are my top 2 basses I wish I could afford to buy!!

Cheers mate if you don’t mind that would be great thanks

The new body is going to be sapele on the back and I haven’t decided if I’m going to use pine or I’ve found a supplier of paulownia for a very reasonable price Here’s the sapele for the back

@Andyjr1515 I don’t know if the pics will make sense, but I was going to do more of an oval anyway I’ve tried to show where the edges will be rounded off The line I’ve drawn just over half way up is ideally where I would want the veneer to finish using your technique do you think that’s possible or is that too far down the body to bend it? I’m going to recut the body as I want to stretch the body by 50mm at the bridge end so I don’t have to have a jutty out bit (very technical wording!?! ) for the bulk of the neck pocket? I was hoping to come to the E Midlands bass bash but unfortunately with my new job I’ve got to work every weekend!!

Yes that definitely does work as I’ve also done it lots of times too it works better on some woods than others but you have to remember not to have the cloth too wet as if it’s too wet it will remove the ding but also (like most woods when you apply water on them) it raises the grain so you will have to sand it flat again afterwards My Jazz bass has a paulownia body and I’m really happy with it it’s nice and light (I haven’t weighed it tho) compared to my P bass which has basswood body and isn’t really that much softer, if you look on the Janka scale it has a rating of between 300-360lbf, basswood is 390-430lbf, Alder is 460-510lbf and Swamp Ash is only 530-590lbf so in reality there’s not really a lot of difference between the so called cheap softer woods and the so called better quality woods If you want to build a guitar that is virtually impervious to dings and dents then make it out of Australian Buloke which is the hardest wood ever tested........

Fair point!!

Thanks but I think that’s taking it a bit too far anyway it’s a bit easier if you just use a wallpaper steamer and a length of soil pipe with some end caps on.....

Yeah the arm relief wasn’t going to be an major issue but as you say the double curvature is the biggest problem and probably way beyond my skills I’ve searched the web and I can’t find any videos or even descriptions on how to veneer a double curvature so instead of wasting money by f*****g it up I think I’ll do something else with it but I can’t decide what as yet.......

I think TBH I’m being a bit optimistic that it will work and look nice I didn’t really want it to be a flat top, the reason why I’m doing it that shape is because I like the rounded look I think I’m either going to go for a pine back with sapele front (which is 15mm thick) so I will be able to round it off no problems or buy a proper drop top?? Or the final alternative is to paint it instead.........

Thanks @Andyjr1515 and @Jabba_the_gut I figured that I wouldn’t be able to bend the veneered around all the corners so my plan is (I’m not quite sure if it will work) looking at the picture of the veneer the lighter colour in it looks to be quite a close match to the Pine I’m using and if it does match quite nicely then I’ll cut the body shape out do the arm relief then with the edges still square veneer the top then round over the edges, so then hopefully it will kind of blend into the body as such I will need to do some tests first to see if there will be any colour difference between the two when I apply the finish which will probably be Hardglaze Or failing that I might just leave it as a flat top........

It’s really not that expensive as it’s paper backed manufactured veneer, it works out to be about £15 for a 1250mm x 310mm roll and £25 for a 2500mm x 310mm roll I didn’t know whether to veneer the back or have Sapele on the back then pine (technically it’ll be Redwood which is lighter than pine and slightly higher on the Janka scale) then veneered on the front?? Im rethinking the body because I’m not overly happy with the jutty out neck pocket (pictured on the previous page) I would prefer it to flow a bit more which would mean stretching the body slightly at the bridge end but 50mm which I still think would look ok proportionally

I agree it would look nice fretless I’m kinda hoping that with the white ebony veneer the finished look would be a bit like this??? (Obviously switching the light for dark and visa-versa)