Jimothey

Thanks I’m happy with it Total cost roughly about £90

@Grangur is the man to speak to about refinishing a Warwick check out the job he did on @Al Krow corvette in the Warwick thread on gear porn it looks stunning and flawless

My method (which I learnt off a French Polisher) when I used to refinish furniture was to use Liberon wax remover to start off with then once the wax is removed 1. Wipe turps over the wood with a clean rag 2. Sand all over with steel wool the oil will clog it up so make sure you change it regularly 3. Wipe off the wood with a clean rag/cloth etc then sand again with steel wool then wipe and repeat till most of the oil has been removed (It takes a long time and is hard work!!!!!) 4. Let any remaining oil dry again overnight then you can start sanding with 120/180 grit sand paper and keep wiping with a clean cloth and keep sanding till the rest of the oil is removed I then used to wipe over with mineral spirits to make sure the wood is clean from oily marks from fingers etc then obviously go through the grades to smooth the body again Good luck!!!!

@dyerseve Or the guy from Aus might be selling them at a reasonable price and Warwick is selling at a far too high price @TheGreek I like Warwick always have I’ve never owned one tho (I simply can’t afford them) but you are well within your rights to voice your opinion without getting shot down and you’ve had bad dealings with them so it seems justified to me I know this is basically a Warwick appreciation thread but surely people can voice their opinion as if everyone liked the same things life would be boring

Good point well made so eloquently I’m thinking of just leaving it natural and just oil it and perhaps make a rosewood truss rod and cavity cover out of some veneer I’ve got?.......

That’s the reason why I put mine in a carriage as the vibrations from it was hurting my hands if I used it for more than 5 mins and it was a lot cheaper than buying a new bobbin sander as the motor burnt out on mine

If that method works for you then that’s great it looks nice and smooth tho ( I use a belt sander in a carriage to keep it square) Can’t wait to see this progress as I’m considering a Tbird build (but with a slight difference to the body shape so technically it won’t be a Tbird)

I’ve decided I don’t like the body being chequered so I’ve started refinishing it again I’m still keeping it white but decided on a satin finish but I might top coat it gloss?..... I think I’ll keep the hardware chrome but I still can’t decide whether to leave the fretboard the colour it is and just oil it or dye it black? I’ve got the new wiring loom but still need to get a new bone nut as it came with crappy plastic one!!

The rest of the black hardware finally turned up I’ve just swapped over the tuners, strap buttons and string tree So now the bass is finished apart from a setup Sorry for some reason the picture has gone a bit grainy I’m happy with the finished look it’s no frills and simple!! (Bit like me!!) 1 down only 3 to go!!.........

@Norris yeah sorry I meant to put probably won’t need to move the bridge @hrnn1234 you shouldn’t really have that much problems as it’s a lot easier if you buy the right kind of body ie Bass body as I’m having fun trying to convert an old Telecaster body into a bass and making it 34” scale

100% agree

So if it’s a 34” scale neck and a body that was set up for a 34” scale then the bridge won’t need to move but if it’s a 30” scale neck on a body that is set up for 34” scale then the bridge will need to move forward

Most necks have the same width heel so I don’t think you would have too much trouble matching it to a body, it’s only the nut width that really changes As far as I understand you can change the scale length the only thing you need to consider is how far forward or backwards you need to move the bridge to be the correct scale length If you change the scale length and have to move the bridge you might need to fill the existing holes before you refinish the body Definitely sounds like a bit of fun just make sure you post so pics of your progress

I’ve got so many projects on the go I get confused between them too....

That’s my Jazz kit build the black strap buttons and string tree have now arrived but still waiting for the tuner ferrules, I’m also doing a Precision kit build that I’m doing Red with P pups and a cream ‘72 style tele bass pickguard which I was considering not having a pickguard on

I was considering it on my p bass kit build doing it 51 style with no pickguard but decided to go 72 style pickguard instead But looking at the way this bass turned out I think I made the wrong decision......

Agree it looks lovely But it definitely doesn’t need tort....

Northwest Guitars sell them I think they are about £15 and they say they fit most fenders/squiers

I’ve got most of the tools except fret wire cutters as I’ve only ever dressed frets and crowned them never completely re-fretted. I thought it would be a useful skill to learn

Thanks for the advice, it’s for a project in considering buying so if I decide to go for it I’ll assess it and see which would be the best method

Hi just looong for a bit of advice, how easy is to re-fret a de-fretted neck? Is it best to use a hand precision mitre saw and just follow the filled lines? Or is there a better way?

I’m in Denbigh North Wales Happy to do set ups, maintenance, pickup replacements, basic electrics etc (Still learning fretwork so would prefer not to do it) When my workshops up and running can do more (Refinishing, Wood working etc)

If you want to get rid I’ve got £40 (that was the appraised value wasn’t it?)...

Sounds like a nice project can’t wait to see it when it gets back from the painter...... Following with interest.......

That’s just plain wrong!!!