John Cribbin

Not sure where your bass is made, but if it's far east, metric stainless steel grub screws are easily obtainable on Ebay. My Ibanez uses 4mm dia ones, I guess that would be fairly standard for a bass. Obviously, if it's USA made the grub screws would be imperial.

Remember, this is the internet. It's full of people who will give you definitive answers based on nothing ... You want to know the best way to break in a Fane, simple, ask Fane for their recommendation.

I'd say it's just a shim for the neck made from a piece of Fender card.

Well, my gut reaction would be, why have just two pickup positions when three is more versatile. I have a Cabronita Telecaster one volume and a three way Les Paul type selector switch. Nice simple and uncluttered. You could probably opt for a mini three way switch if you wanted it to be more inconspicuous.

Just remember if you import from outside the EU, anything over the value of £39 is subject to VAT. You may also find, depending on value Customs Duty added. Then the Post office will add a charge for calculating the previous charges. Ask me how I found this out ....

Ah a Jedson, legendary for all the wrong reasons .... Personally I'd say try it and decide if a short scale is for you. If the length works for you then sell it and buy something better without forking out for the strings. I've just picked up an Ibanez TMB 30 and it's rather impressive for a bass than you can get delivered for £144 new.

You could have a look on Ebay, it's full of 9v battery holders for guitar with easy access lids. Problem may be finding a direct replacment that doesn't require some level of surgery ...

Perfect example of why heat shrink tubing was invented ... !

Thanks for the input folks, I've gone with the Fender bag.

Marvelous, I'd guess any Fender SS bag will be pretty much the same size. Cheers.

I've picked up a Ibanez TMB30 bass and am looking for a gig bag. The official Ibanez bag is an eye watering £88, but a Fender FBSS-610 can be picked up from £27. I'm gussing that the Ibanez at 41" or 104cm and with it's 2+2 headstock will be shorter than the Squier Mustang SS and fit the bag. However If anyone can measure the length of a Mustang or has the Fender bag before I order It would be most appreciated. Unfortunately Fender doesn't give the size online.

Bit the bullet and ordered up an Ibanez TMB 30 Stuck it on the scales and it came in bang on 7 1/2 lbs.

I'm in a similar boat with back issues. Seriously looking at an Ibanez TMB30. I've not seen any weight for these, but I'd guess they'd be in the same ballpark as the Mikro. However it has a fairly decent size pickguard. Ample opportunity to route out some excess wood and reduce the weight ... At about £150 delivered and well reviewed, it's a fair punt.

Someone may have a better idea, but .... If it was me and a new board was the likely outcome, I'd try the cleaner down the shaft and work the pot to move the cleaner around. Then I'd turn the guitar face down and hopefully the excess fluid will drain out. Worst case scenario, it doesn't work and you're left with a can of contact cleaner for future use.

Hmmm, from that link the three turquoise boxes from the left appear to be sealed pots, only the pot on the right appears to be open. I'm thinking that's a replacment board scenario, unless someone with soldering skills can replace the part. Some people remove the knob and spray the contact cleaner down the shaft, but I'd have a slight concern about the fluid remaining inside a sealed pot.

If you could take a post a picture of what you've got that would help. A quick Google of East preamps shows, some with sealed, some with open and some with a mixture of pots. Probably depends on wht model you have fitted and possibly when it was made.

Deoxit. It's fairly expensive, but a tin will last a lifetime. Not WD40 ...

I always set up a new guitar to factory specs. I figure if it's not right at that point then there's a problem somewhere. Once I'm happy it's basically OK, then I can tweek to my preferred settings.

What you are looking for is a 5 way stacked rotary switch.

The only important age, is the age of those electrolytic capacitors. 12-15 years would be the norm before replacement is needed. If they are original, get them out of there ASAP. If they fail, you will potentially be in a whole world of pain and expense.

1. Yep remove the lead. Depends on the circuit, some can be wired active/passive fairly easily, some not. 2. Depends on use. Normally months with alkalines. 3. Get a battery tester. You'll probably hear some distortion before the batteries die, but alkalines may die pretty quickly once they start to kick the bucket.

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/JKL-Components/BGF717-UV1?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduhzi%2FKddTjzuZNw9NRfwBZ2ixamIUJ%2FDTk=

I'm sure T-Rex would give you the correct part details. [email protected]

Apologies for the crap change to the diagram but you should be able to see what I mean .... I would do this with two pieces of wire with crocodile clips at each end to make it easy, but you may be able to wrap the wire for the purpose of testing. Essentially what you are doing, is hooking up to one volume pot at a time and bypassing the rest of the circuit and going directly to the bass lead. This will show how each volume pot is doing in isolation and should reveal if one of those pots is faulty. One connection to the pot earth and one to the hot, same on the lead and away you go.

That's some scary wiring. Gut reaction, it originally came with three small pots and at some stage the two volume pots have been replaced with better quality full size ones. Soldering is not difficult if you start with some 60/40 cored solder and an iron that gets hot enough to melt the solder so it can flow. Most of that solder has not flowed. Personally, I'd remove all the wiring to the volume pots and do the job properly. In fact I'd go the whole hog and fit a full size tone pot and a good quality jack socket.