whizzzy

A massive thank you to the Admin guys here on BC. Well done chaps!

Lovely bass and possibly one of the most desirable years but I would physically check it out before parting with your hard earned cash. Statements like "has been in the loft for 3-4 years untouched" sends alarm signals ringing. Its the worst place in the world to keep a bass - too hot in summer - too cold and maybe damp in winter. I'm not saying it has suffered because of this but just be careful.

Ok, a bit of an update on the plastics repair. Although I'm probably one of the worlds worst sceptics when it comes to these sorts of things I did go ahead and order one of the plastic repair kits on line. Well what can I say, I'm really very impressed with the outcome. As icastle mentioned in an earlier post the kit does seem like it is resin based as the liquid has that characteristic smell about it. However I followed the instructions and used a small Dremel type tool to cut a groove along the break and then filled the channel using a drop of the mixture at a time as they demo in the video. Left it overnight and it's a proper job and I would go as far as saying that the repair is as every bit of strong as the plastic itself. I did consider the other suggestions before going with the repair kit but none of these were really practical for a number of reasons. But anyhow thanks for the suggestions chaps. So there you have it. If you have any awkward plastic parts to repair on your bass then I would seriously consider looking at this repair kit as an option. Mrs. W. may even get the plastic nozzle repaired on the vacuum cleaner now!

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Sold some bits and pieces to BassHavoc and the everything went as it should. Easy communication, quick payment. Great guy to deal with. [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] [/font][/color]

Thanks for the response guys. Below is a shot of the part in question. The split has been held open with a screwdriver blade just to emphasise it. It's probably a heat stress related as these things get pretty warm over several hours. Checking with someone who repairs car bumpers may be an option but its always a challenge to do these sorts of things by yourself.

Thanks. I'll get a photo of the part posted when I get home later. Replacement isn't totally out of the question but the fixture was made by Coemar in Italy (so read that as dammed expensive and quite difficult to get hold of). Repair seems best option and I hear what you say about none of the major players selling this type of product but looking at the video it all looks a bit of a faff (not that it worries me) so this may be one reason why it hasn't caught on?

Not directly bass related but is from some stage lighting gear so it qualifies for music - Does anyone have any experience with using this product - [url="http://www.repairproducts.co.uk/page20.htm"]http://www.repairpro...o.uk/page20.htm[/url] The item I am trying to repair is a plastic cover from a moving head and I have tried the usual superglues, one being Loctite All Plastics and none of these have been very successful. Even after bonding it and leaving it undisturbed overnight it hasn't held the cracked part together. The plastic in question is the hard but slightly flexible type, possibly polypropylene. Watching the video makes it look like the answer to everyone's prayer but all too often with these sorts of thing the demo makes it look all too easy and it never works when you get it home. Any advice or recommendations would be appreciated. Col

Just bought a DI box from Andy. Everything perfect, it was sent immediately, well packaged and great communication from start to finish! He even installed a fresh battery in the unit for me. Top guy to deal with!

Just bought a speakon lead from Ian, an easy and trouble free purchase. The cable was very well packed and arrived promtly. Cant fault the whole deal, pro grade quality, great price, fast delivery and comms, Thanks Ian.

Bought some connectors from Jake the other day. All good, and the previous three pages of excellent feedback say it all. Many thanks, Colin

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Recently bought a flight-case from Mike - quickly delivered and well packaged - nice one! [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Trade with confidence folks.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Many thanks,[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Colin [/font][/color]

Hi, Before you rush out buying a new driver check out the 2nd and 3rd post in this thread - it may help. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/118394-odd-driver-distortion/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/118394-odd-driver-distortion/[/url]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Just bought some gear off Tony in what was a smooth and easy transaction. Great communication throughout and would be happy to deal with him again any day. [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Thanks Tony [/font][/color]

Just bought some parts off Howard in what was a smooth and easy transaction. Great communication throughout and would be happy to deal with him again any day. Thanks Doc

I've just been through a similar exercise with a bitsa P bass I'm making and the way I approached it (rightly or wrongly) was to position the neck in situ, clamping it if you can do this successfully without marking the body or neck and then to pilot and fix one screw into place. Tighten the screw reasonably tight but not to its final torque and then carefully turn the bass over so as not to stress the joint and then start to fit the G and E strings. There's no need to fit them on the machine heads but simply thread them through the bridge and locate them in the nut and then tension them by hand. The reason for this is to ensure that the neck is located straight and that it doesn't run out at an angle. You should be able to see this by checking the distance between the strings and the left and right side of the neck. If all is well then pilot and fix the other screws however if you find that the neck does run out but a mm or two then you should find there is sufficient flex in the joint to coax it into the correct position. Obviously if the neck runs out by more than 3 - 4 mm then something is radically wrong and you need to remove the first fixing screw and start again. Hope this helps.

There's a number of lighting software packages out there and it generally comes down to your personal opinion on how you find the user interface. Have a look at the following:- Chamsys - http://www.chamsys.co.uk/download Trace Lighting - http://www.tracelighting.com/products/ - they have recently introduced a product called 'Verse' which is a lite version of their professional package Showmagic - www.showmagic.com All of these provide a facility where you can download demo versions of the software and get a feel for it before parting with any hard earned cash. With the Chamsys and Showmagic packages you will probably need to buy a USB to DMX converter. Again there are several available but take a look at Enttec - www.enttec.com as they have a couple of very useful dongles but look at the "open USB interface" which is the one I use. I personally prefer the Showmagic software as I find this more intuitive. I've tried the Chamsys and struggled with it and our sound / lighting engineer swears by the Trace software so like I say it's all down to personal preference.

I bought a Squire neck from Mel. Great comms and very patient. A recommendation from me in a very positive feedback thread. Thanks again.