Bill Fitzmaurice

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1383566266' post='2265856'] I stand by what the rest of the thread is hinting towards, the Bose will not cut it with a loud band... and having been there, you won't convince me any other way! [/quote]+1. A friend of mine is a keyboard/vocal single act who has an L1. It's fine for what he does in the small clubs he works in. When he sits in with my band he still uses the L1, but only for his keyboards as a backline rig. Just for the heck of it he once tried to run his vocals through it, rather than my PA. It really was like bringing a knife to a gunfight, and a small pocket knife at that.

[quote name='hubrad' timestamp='1460710459' post='3028004'] Still, with say 2 x 250W speakers in series, you'd not hit the front one with 500W, would you? [/quote]You would not. Half the voltage would be dropped in each, therefore half the power would be dropped in each. [quote]And with the same in parallel they'd get an equal share of the power? (again, simplistic approach..) [/quote]Yes, because half the current would be dropped in each.

[quote name='Ant' timestamp='1460666595' post='3027798'] thanks guys! and would i just simply cut it out and stick it (staple or adhesive i imagine?) to the inside walls and back? [/quote]+1.

[quote name='taunton-hobbit' timestamp='1460661201' post='3027742'] If you can get hold of some old-fashioned carpet felt, you can't go wrong..... [/quote]That will do, as will 5mm polyester upholstery batting or 5mm open cell foam. It will tighten the mids quite a bit by eliminating internal reflections.

Those are 8 ohm Eminence Beta 12s, with a thermal rating of 250w. In that small sealed cab their real world power handling before farting out is more like 125w each, and being sealed there's not going to be much happening below 70Hz. It really should be lined with damping material as well. [quote]Power handling is double that of one speaker, as a series pair can only handle the single amount whereas a parallel pair will split it between them.[/quote]You're confusing what happens with power versus what happens with voltage. On that matter with parallel connections each driver sees the same voltage, with series the voltage is split amongst each driver.

We are visually oriented creatures, so looks are paramount, with anything and everything. Years ago when I was in the ski business Nordica introduced a line of ski boots that fit great, but were butt ugly, so even the very few who were convinced to try them on didn't buy them. The following year the exact same boots were reintroduced with a different name, and appealing graphics. It became the #1 best seller, not just within the Nordica line, but of every line.

[quote name='Kevin Dean' timestamp='1460370381' post='3024977'] I was wandering if it was worth using both my Barefaced Super compacts , one behind me & the other out front under the vocal PA ? [/quote]That would result in phase cancellation issues. Low frequency sources should seldom be split. The issue here is why a vocal only PA? Your stage rig should drive the stage, the PA should drive the room. That's the only method by which you can get a result that's good for the audience out front while remaining comfortable for the band on stage.

It depends on the room. Most rooms are very 'wet' in the lows and mids, so reverb would only make things worse. OTOH in a very dry room, like a recording studio, some reverb might be in order. But as one usually adds studio effects in mix-down you still wouldn't want a reverb amp. However, back in the '60s many studio players did use guitar amps with reverb, most notably Carol Kaye. It's most noticeable on the tracks she did for Phil Spector, but you can hear it on Beach Boys tracks as well.

[quote name='Fonkbass' timestamp='1459705603' post='3018786'] i would go for a no tweeter build if the Beyma's give me enough high end.. [/quote]It's not about high end, it's about dispersion. No matter what the on-axis sensitivity no twelve is going to work well off-axis above 2kHz. The BGH25 is rare in that it can be used to 2kHz, so there's no hole in the mids.

The plans should give you a list of a few appropriate drivers, and a range of T/S specs so that you can compare other drivers as well. 'Should', although I have no idea whether they do.

[quote name='Passinwind' timestamp='1459012016' post='3012868'] I should reiterate that "Passinwind Electronics" is still just a vanity name for my hobby builds, not an actual commercial entity at this time. [/quote]Good thing, one would not want bass gear to have a name which implies that it will fart out.

[quote name='Kevin Dean' timestamp='1458987698' post='3012591'] I'm sure my cab became louder ? [/quote]Probably not, at least not by an audible amount. Break in isn't that dramatic.

http://www.eminence.com/2011/06/speaker-break-in/

[quote name='Dan Dare' timestamp='1458920132' post='3012140'] Could it explain why I sometimes find that I don't like the sound of my rig on stage, but that if I go for a walk (courtesy of the wireless) whilst playing, it sounds fine in the room/mix whilst the sound I like on stage doesn't work in the room? [/quote]That's probably more related to boundary reflection sourced cancellations that can occur close to the speaker but disappear as you move further away. I always set my tone while standing on the dance floor. If it sounds good on stage as well fine, but if not I just live with it.

[quote name='Dan Dare' timestamp='1458920718' post='3012148'] True Bill, but as a working assumption, the excursion capabilities of a lot drivers are much of a muchness until you get into the realms of the most expensive [/quote]That assumption is also without foundation. While it's true that most manufacturers don't use premium components there's still lot of variance in what can be found from the usual suspects.

[quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1458897359' post='3011878'] Interesting point - the room was well insulated - could that have exaggerated the mids? [/quote]If you mean the room was well damped with absorbent material that would reduce the mids and highs. Damping becomes less effective as frequency goes down and wavelengths become longer. However, while the actual level of highs and mids are reduced with damping, they'll sound more prominent, because you're hearing more of the direct sound from the speaker and fewer reflections, which smear the tone.

[quote name='JuliusGroove' timestamp='1458847231' post='3011580'] The reason I considered adding a 15" is because I assume it will bring a heavier bottom end to my tone.. [/quote]That's a logical assumption, but also an invalid one. The size of the driver has little to no bearing on low frequency response. [quote]2x10 has just about the same surface area as 1x15 and will move the same amount of air.[/quote]The same applies. Surface area has little bearing on the amount of air moved. That's determined by driver displacement, area multiplied by excursion. [quote]Is it advised to keep the brand all the same or would it all work just as well combining gear?[/quote]The brand matters less than the drivers and cab configuration. Keeping them identical insures that you don't have phase interactions that can result in wonky tone, and that neither cab will be the weaker link in the chain.

A horizontal cab would have better vertical dispersion, but aside from a player standing quite close to it there's nothing to be gained, while all that's required to hear it well is to lift it and/or tilt it back. Besides, who are you playing to, yourself or the audience?

[quote name='AndrewJordan' timestamp='1458766285' post='3010750']. From that perspective, of the commonly available formats the 10” equipped cabs probably give us the best chance of hearing most of what the audience is hearing from the cab. [/quote]Only if they're placed vertically, and very few are. A 1x15 will have wider dispersion than a horizontal 2x10.

There is no 'typical sound' based on driver size alone. This subject is beating a long dead horse.

[quote name='Truckstop' timestamp='1458551178' post='3008400'] I'd guess Bass 2 has more presence in certain frequencies which made it 'sound' louder than bass 1. [/quote]+1. All the engineer has to go by is a meter or LED that shows a voltage input. It doesn't show the frequency content that makes up said voltage. Why that matters can be seen in an equal loudness chart.

[quote name='The fasting showman' timestamp='1457648371' post='3000715'] I've owned a few Bassman 135s and a 100 and I seem to remember from the circuit diagram that the '70s Fenders break from the convention of parallel outputs (tweeds etc) and are wired in series but with a switching jack on one of the outputs [/quote]The 135 may be different, but the standard Fender arrangement used a switched main speaker jack which shorted to ground when there was no plug inserted. This prevented damage that would occur if the amp was used with no load. It also caused consternation if you plugged into the extension jack and not the main jack, as the amp wouldn't work. We didn't know at the time why they did that, but you didn't have to make that mistake very many times before you learned not to do it.

[quote]Does this mean each output is 8 Ohms?. [/quote]It means the transformer tap is rated for 4 ohm operation. Since it's a valve amp you may use a 4 ohm OR LOWER load. For that matter you may use an 8 ohm load, the Fender output transformer and power valve circuitry is very robust. I wouldn't use higher than an 8 ohm load though, while 2 ohms is perfectly OK. Back in the day when we didn't know better we ran Fenders day in,day out with 1 ohm loads with no ill effect. As for the previous replies, they would be accurate if the Bassman was a SS amp, but it isn't.

[quote name='ebenezer' timestamp='1455030634' post='2975194'] I think this is a great idea! you could eq the 15 combo to deal with the lower frequency and eq the 210 for mid and above....a basic bi-amp system if you like and better than just adding a 210 cab!! [/quote]That would make sense if a 1x15 and 2x10 had dissimilar response, but they don't. For what you suggest a 1x10 guitar combo atop the 1x15 combo would work better. For what the OP suggests adding a 1x15 extension cab would be best, and a lot less expensive than a second combo.

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1456407455' post='2988663'] Presumably the tweeter or horn would take care of the highs and the band pass response might even enable the use of a less complex crossover [/quote]Only if the crossover frequency is low enough. The lower the crossover frequency the more expensive the HF drivers and crossover components. That's probably the main reason why slot loading isn't common.