Bill Fitzmaurice

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1361396538' post='1985460'] Just out of interest, was it the ML112 you measured, Bill? And did it measure the same as the one Tom Bowlus tested in Bass Gear? (I certainly hope not.) [/quote]I don't know if it was the same one that Bowlus tested, but I do know that BG does not know how to test speakers, so any results they show should be ignored. The cab was an ML112 demo making it's rounds though the eastern US, and as a favor to Roger I measured it. If I could find fault I'd say so, but I didn't.

[quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1361388244' post='1985235'] Interesting that the ML is neo loaded yet is only a couple of lb lighter than my similar sized/spec DB112. Folks often get hung up on the weight saving of neo... not really 'that' much difference! [/quote]That depends on the ceramic driver it's being compared to. The Baer OEM 3012 weighs in at 7.6 pounds. A comparable ceramic driver is at least 10 pounds heavier than that. If it isn't, it's not comparable to the 3012. The Aggie driver is no 3012; it would take at least two of them to match its output. And the ML112 uses a premium midrange driver, which is probably twice the weight of the Aggie tweeter, and it's worth every ounce. I know, because I measured one of Roger's cabs for him.

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1361222905' post='1983177'] Read the manual carefully. A 2-pin mains lead could be for the US or Europe. [/quote]Not US. We still use 2 pin for some things, like toasters, but not amps, which must have a chassis ground.

A new cable is probably cheaper than a plug. Any computer store should carry them, just be sure of the ampere rating.

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1361202190' post='1982657'] Am I correct in thinking this means that despite having higher peak power handling, the Delta Pro actually has much much lower average power-handling than they Beyma (limited by the Xmax?)[/quote]+1. And the average OEM driver has less xmax than the Delta Pro 12.

[quote name='SPHDS' timestamp='1361188722' post='1982355'] would it be better to pair the existing 2x10s with a 15", or would this muddy the sound, and should go for more 10s, or would a 15 add a better bottom end.....! [/quote]Mixing drivers is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're going to get. Trying before buying is the only way to go.

[quote name='Mikey R' timestamp='1361137664' post='1981785'] Thats an odd website, the banner stays in the middle of my screen so youve got to keep scrolling up and down to see the pics around it! [/quote]Their website design skills are apparently no better than their bass cab design skills.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1361120311' post='1981342'] Pertinent..as the OP has stated they aren't keen on higher extention/horns. [/quote]BTW, it's not all that difficult to figure out what the Berg HD uses. It's a cast frame driver with an 80oz magnet and 350w coil; that means it's a Delta Pro 12 motor. The Berg version might not be exactly the same as the stock version, but it won't be significantly different. Often the main difference between stock and OEM is push button versus spade lug input connectors.

[quote name='Balcro' timestamp='1361112599' post='1981177'] You've taken the sentence out of it's context in the paragraph. [/quote]Not at all. Entering the Cms and Mms specs often results in error messages. Entering only the specs I noted will never cause a problem. They're also the specs most likely to be accurate on the data sheets. BTW, OP, be sure to compare driver data sheet SPL charts. Bergs use Eminence, which have a characteristic rising sensitivity in the midrange. Beyma does not have that. If crossed over at 1.5kHz or lower to a midrange it's of no consequence, but if not it's major.

[quote name='Balcro' timestamp='1361103782' post='1981030'] Enter the basic data as per the help file. Perhaps the first 5 paramenters, Qes, Qms, Vas, Mms and Cms [/quote]Even that is too much. The issue is that WinISD will calculate the parameters to a higher degree of accuracy than the spec sheets do, and when the results don't agree it results in error messages. The only specs you should enter are Qes, Qms, Vas, Fs, Re, Sd, Xmax, Le and Pe.

[quote name='zapp' timestamp='1360664766' post='1974085'] Has the price just shot up? [/quote]Two years ago. They peaked about one year ago, have come back down somewhat since then.

[quote name='Currrls' timestamp='1360572923' post='1972342'] If I soldered some jack plugs onto the end of the speaker wire and plugged them into the amp would this work? [/quote]Possibly, but hi-fi speakers are not made to withstand the stresses of pro-sound use, so if they do work it may not be for long.

It appears to be a ported cab, which probably indicates it's for bass.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1360520614' post='1971681'] Not necessarily. You could use an 8 ohm speaker - you just won't get the full 150 watts from the amp. [/quote]Not that it matters, as few speakers can make use of more than half their rated power anyway. It's always prudent to use a speaker twice the amp's rated impedance, should you need to add another down the road.

[quote name='Musky' timestamp='1360395397' post='1969712'] I'm certainly no expert, but doesn't stuffing a speaker into a smaller than ideal box create a hump in the low mids[/quote]In the midbass, actually, and that's what's responsible for boom. If you've got a cab that booms chances are the box is too small for the drivers. But the box size doesn't depend on the driver size alone, it depends on all the spces.[quote]- which seems to be what the OP is looking for? [/quote]One can't say. If the intent is to sound like a Berg one first has to quantify what that means. Since Berg doesn't post frequency response charts you'd have to measure one yourself, or find someone else who has done so. Then you can use modeling to match up the low frequency response and driver data sheets to match up the midrange and high frequency response. But without doing all that attempts to get a Berg tone, or any specic result, via sticking a random driver into a box will be as effective as tossing darts...blindfolded.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1360346593' post='1969131'] What Bill is hinting at but not said outright is that you should buy some of his excellent plans and build yourself a spiffy BFM cab! [/quote]Not if sounding like a Berg is the intent.

What Mr. Foxen has hinted at but not said outright is that you need to either learn how to use speaker modeling software to find the driver with T/S specs that will give the desired result, along with the cabinet volume and tuning, or you have to find someone who does have that skill to design it for you. Inches and watts are only a very small part of the overall picture. [quote]I noticed the vas was similar so they should both work in a similar sized box right?[/quote]No. Drivers may work well in a similar sized box if all the specs are similar, [i]or if they're totally different. [/i]The only way to know is with modeling.

The main issue is the size of the stand footprint, which is substantial. Amp stands take up less room.

[quote name='fatback' timestamp='1360163333' post='1965932'] Some acoustic foam under the cab or even the front bottom edge of the cab will probably sort the boom if it's to do with the floor resonating. Whether it's a gramma or something else doesn't matter. Honest, it works.[/quote]The boom is caused by the output of the speaker, not contact with the stage, so isolating the cab won't stop boom. It can only reduce the cabinet vibrating atop the stage. As for "I know what I'm hearing", if you did you could draw a response chart with and without the pad. I know I can't, but that's why they invented gear to measure response. If there was a measurable difference in the lows sellers of pads would show those measured results. They don't. Auralex does show a chart for the Subdude that shows reduction of 'Sound Transmission Loss', whatever that is, in the midrange. Why that matters with a subwoofer one can only guess, while their chart stops at 100Hz, when the output of a sub is all below 100Hz. Worse, read the fine print about their results: [i]This test was estimated. [/i] [quote] Losing reinforcement from the floor reflection can cost a fair bit of oomph in my experience. [/quote]Where controlling boom is concerned that's the point. The only issue is getting the height correct to reduce the correct frequency, or not raising at all when not required, but still tilting it back so that the highs are aimed at your ears.

Meh. Two years after the neo price crunch Jim Bergantino wakes up, realizes that the sky hasn't fallen after all, and resumes using neo drivers. It's not a bad thing, but hardly a stop the presses moment.

[quote name='kennyrodg' timestamp='1359931519' post='1962339'] I can't see much point in adding frequencies if you're struggling with boomyness. Surely it makes sense to cut the troublesome frequencies then add what you want....No ?? [/quote]Yes. Boom is too much midbass. To address it electronically the best tool is a parametric, set to a narrow width, perhaps 10dB cut, sweeping the frequency knob untll the offending frequency is found and attenuated.

[quote name='guntherbuffalo' timestamp='1359707392' post='1958975'] Replacing a speaker in a Mag 300 combo, I have decided to either go for the Emi Beta 15 or the Beta 15a [/quote]It's the same driver. The 'A' suffix denotes 8 ohms. The 600w rating is peak, which is meaningless. In any event inches and watts aren't how you choose a driver, you do so based on all the other T/S specs, using a modeling program like WinISD to match the driver and cab.

[quote name='nottswarwick' timestamp='1359664158' post='1958559'] Really?. I use one and have never A B tested n the same stage....so I just always assumed it must work [/quote]It does work, but not the way they claim. The cab contacting a stage does not cause it to vibrate; that would be the tail wagging the dog. The sound coming from the cab can cause a resonant stage to vibrate, which in turn can cause the cab to vibrate atop it. You may want to isolate the cab to stop it from vibrating. You can use a fifty quid gizmo, but rubber feet are all you need. Isolating the cab won't stop boom because the cab contacting the stage doesn't cause boom. It's the resonance of the stage and/or other reflection issues in the room.

[quote name='deepbass5' timestamp='1359587622' post='1957314'] too high could play havock with the vocal mics and piss band mates off [/quote]Why? It's no higher than an 8x10, let alone a stack. [quote]Would the Auralex help?[/quote]Not unless it's 30 inches or so high. The claims that Auralex makes for what it can do are as phony as a three dollar bill, or your equivalent thereof. Stages don't boom because the cab is touching them.

[quote name='bertbass' timestamp='1359584474' post='1957226'] Flight case. Protect your cab in transit and stand the cab on top off it to gig. [/quote]+1, though anything that will lift it 30 odd inches will do. Lifting it that high introduces a floor bounce reflection that counteracts boom in the midbass.