Bill Fitzmaurice

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1361611756' post='1988161'] I think you are being rather unfair to Mr Baer here. The analogy of sitting in a pub and an insurance salesman coming up to you with some hard sell has no comparison to the situation here. This is a bass guitar forum, and this is a thread specifically started to discuss his products. [/quote]+1. Roger didn't start a thread about his product, he merely responded to one. If you want to see that no manufacturer will come here hauling those who do over the coals is a good way to be sure of it.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1361663639' post='1989142'] Thanks to a NIMBY neighbour, the venue has has one of those frickin' sound monitors attached to a set of miniature traffic lights. [/quote]I was employed by a major venue to fix their noise issues, because despite having one of those in the FOH they had a continuing problem. The thing never went off but the complaints still raged. No wonder, the idiots who came up with their noise control plans and sold them this gizmo for $25,000 used industrial noise standards, which specify 'A' weighting. The bass was roaring at 110dB plus in the FOH and the meter system, set at 100dB, being 'A' weighted never measured it. In any event if your venues meter is 'A' weighted it will never know you're there anyway.

[quote name='surfguy13' timestamp='1361635195' post='1988607'] Yes, the Selmer has two outputs on the rear panel....a 7.5 and a 15 as Musky mentioned. It is a 50 watt valve head, not SS. It has SS rectification though if that makes a difference? So....am I right in thinking that if I take a lead from the 16 ohm 'out' on the amp and then somehow split the lead with a jack going to each 16 ohm socket on the cabs I'll be OK? [/quote]Or you could use the 4 ohm load option on the 7.5 ohm tap. Six of one, half a dozen of the other, the result will be the same. Back in the day when the original Kustom PA was introduced they inexplicably only had one output jack for the two columns. The supplied cable was two sixteen foot lengths, coupled in a single jack that plugged into the head. It worked, but it was hardly convenient.

[quote name='surfguy13' timestamp='1361619521' post='1988316'] Could I, for example, take a single cable from the 8 ohm speaker out jack on the head and split it? Would this still give me 8 ohms to each cab? [/quote]You have it backwards. The cabs load the amp, not the other way around. If you Y the output jack to each cab, plugging into the 8 ohm jacks, that will place a 4 ohm load on the amp. Doing so to the 32 ohm jacks will place a 16 ohm load on the amp. If the amp output is rated for 8 ohm operation which to use depends on the amp. If valve use the 4 ohm option, if SS use the 16 ohm.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1361615163' post='1988226'] Hi Roger, Well [b][i]I[/i][/b] appreciate your input to basschat. Thank you for joining us. By the way, nIce cabs. You must be doing something right for BFM not to be able to find fault with them! [/quote]I never said they were as good as mine. What I can say is that if one is going to make a cab of this sort, a 1x12 2-way direct radiator, this one was done right. That does put it in a decided minority of what's out there, as IME at least 90% of the rest are flawed in one fashion or another.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1361542631' post='1987248'] If tests are supposedly too technical for most to comphrend, translate, analyse or relate to something meaniful, then they are just as worthless in some regard. [/quote]That's the party line spouted by those members of the industry who don't provide test results. It's thinly vieled subterfuge to obfuscate the real reason why they won't provide valid test results conducted with accepted methodology: They don't want you to see them. That doesn't mean one should go by tests alone; a mix of both subjective and objective data is far preferable to only the one or the other. If the consumer doesn't care about test results that's his right. But the consumer should at least have access to objective data, and not be told in so many words [i]"we won't give it to you because you're too stupid to understand it". [/i]

[quote name='surfguy13' timestamp='1361545599' post='1987322'] Can anyone tell me what the resistance is for a AB165 circuit Bassman head from 1967? I was told by an amp tech that I could use a 4,8 or 16 ohm cab. Is this correct? [/quote]The [i]impedance [/i]of the original cab was 4 ohms. It was designed to handle two, making it 2 ohms. We used to run them with anywhere between 1 and 8 ohms with never any complaint. I doubt it would be all that happy at 16 ohms, though.

[quote name='Iana' timestamp='1361479054' post='1986476'] They certainly didn't do TC Electronic any favours! [/quote]That being the power measurement of the amp? I believe that was accurate. It's their speaker response measurements that are essentially worthless, as there's no way to compare them to every source that measures them correctly. If you're going to play the game you have to follow the established rules, you can't just make up your own.

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1361459243' post='1986002'] That's a bit harsh. You can nit pick, but I've always found Tom's measurements to be the most useful part of his reviews. [/quote]And I've found them the most worthless part of his reviews, as they do not adhere to any measurement standard. From the very first issue they admitted that they were doing their measurements their own way, because they didn't know how to do them the right way. That makes them as useful as mammary glands on a male bovine. I'll stick with half-space anechoic, as that's how all the rest of the audio world does it.

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1361396538' post='1985460'] Just out of interest, was it the ML112 you measured, Bill? And did it measure the same as the one Tom Bowlus tested in Bass Gear? (I certainly hope not.) [/quote]I don't know if it was the same one that Bowlus tested, but I do know that BG does not know how to test speakers, so any results they show should be ignored. The cab was an ML112 demo making it's rounds though the eastern US, and as a favor to Roger I measured it. If I could find fault I'd say so, but I didn't.

[quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1361388244' post='1985235'] Interesting that the ML is neo loaded yet is only a couple of lb lighter than my similar sized/spec DB112. Folks often get hung up on the weight saving of neo... not really 'that' much difference! [/quote]That depends on the ceramic driver it's being compared to. The Baer OEM 3012 weighs in at 7.6 pounds. A comparable ceramic driver is at least 10 pounds heavier than that. If it isn't, it's not comparable to the 3012. The Aggie driver is no 3012; it would take at least two of them to match its output. And the ML112 uses a premium midrange driver, which is probably twice the weight of the Aggie tweeter, and it's worth every ounce. I know, because I measured one of Roger's cabs for him.

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1361222905' post='1983177'] Read the manual carefully. A 2-pin mains lead could be for the US or Europe. [/quote]Not US. We still use 2 pin for some things, like toasters, but not amps, which must have a chassis ground.

A new cable is probably cheaper than a plug. Any computer store should carry them, just be sure of the ampere rating.

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1361202190' post='1982657'] Am I correct in thinking this means that despite having higher peak power handling, the Delta Pro actually has much much lower average power-handling than they Beyma (limited by the Xmax?)[/quote]+1. And the average OEM driver has less xmax than the Delta Pro 12.

[quote name='SPHDS' timestamp='1361188722' post='1982355'] would it be better to pair the existing 2x10s with a 15", or would this muddy the sound, and should go for more 10s, or would a 15 add a better bottom end.....! [/quote]Mixing drivers is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're going to get. Trying before buying is the only way to go.

[quote name='Mikey R' timestamp='1361137664' post='1981785'] Thats an odd website, the banner stays in the middle of my screen so youve got to keep scrolling up and down to see the pics around it! [/quote]Their website design skills are apparently no better than their bass cab design skills.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1361120311' post='1981342'] Pertinent..as the OP has stated they aren't keen on higher extention/horns. [/quote]BTW, it's not all that difficult to figure out what the Berg HD uses. It's a cast frame driver with an 80oz magnet and 350w coil; that means it's a Delta Pro 12 motor. The Berg version might not be exactly the same as the stock version, but it won't be significantly different. Often the main difference between stock and OEM is push button versus spade lug input connectors.

[quote name='Balcro' timestamp='1361112599' post='1981177'] You've taken the sentence out of it's context in the paragraph. [/quote]Not at all. Entering the Cms and Mms specs often results in error messages. Entering only the specs I noted will never cause a problem. They're also the specs most likely to be accurate on the data sheets. BTW, OP, be sure to compare driver data sheet SPL charts. Bergs use Eminence, which have a characteristic rising sensitivity in the midrange. Beyma does not have that. If crossed over at 1.5kHz or lower to a midrange it's of no consequence, but if not it's major.

[quote name='Balcro' timestamp='1361103782' post='1981030'] Enter the basic data as per the help file. Perhaps the first 5 paramenters, Qes, Qms, Vas, Mms and Cms [/quote]Even that is too much. The issue is that WinISD will calculate the parameters to a higher degree of accuracy than the spec sheets do, and when the results don't agree it results in error messages. The only specs you should enter are Qes, Qms, Vas, Fs, Re, Sd, Xmax, Le and Pe.

[quote name='zapp' timestamp='1360664766' post='1974085'] Has the price just shot up? [/quote]Two years ago. They peaked about one year ago, have come back down somewhat since then.

[quote name='Currrls' timestamp='1360572923' post='1972342'] If I soldered some jack plugs onto the end of the speaker wire and plugged them into the amp would this work? [/quote]Possibly, but hi-fi speakers are not made to withstand the stresses of pro-sound use, so if they do work it may not be for long.

It appears to be a ported cab, which probably indicates it's for bass.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1360520614' post='1971681'] Not necessarily. You could use an 8 ohm speaker - you just won't get the full 150 watts from the amp. [/quote]Not that it matters, as few speakers can make use of more than half their rated power anyway. It's always prudent to use a speaker twice the amp's rated impedance, should you need to add another down the road.

[quote name='Musky' timestamp='1360395397' post='1969712'] I'm certainly no expert, but doesn't stuffing a speaker into a smaller than ideal box create a hump in the low mids[/quote]In the midbass, actually, and that's what's responsible for boom. If you've got a cab that booms chances are the box is too small for the drivers. But the box size doesn't depend on the driver size alone, it depends on all the spces.[quote]- which seems to be what the OP is looking for? [/quote]One can't say. If the intent is to sound like a Berg one first has to quantify what that means. Since Berg doesn't post frequency response charts you'd have to measure one yourself, or find someone else who has done so. Then you can use modeling to match up the low frequency response and driver data sheets to match up the midrange and high frequency response. But without doing all that attempts to get a Berg tone, or any specic result, via sticking a random driver into a box will be as effective as tossing darts...blindfolded.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1360346593' post='1969131'] What Bill is hinting at but not said outright is that you should buy some of his excellent plans and build yourself a spiffy BFM cab! [/quote]Not if sounding like a Berg is the intent.