Bill Fitzmaurice

[quote name='Phil Starr' post='968132' date='Sep 26 2010, 03:48 AM']If it is not too late the dome can simply be stuck back down with some latex based adhesive like Copydex. Ive done this lots and so far it works every time.[/quote] The adhesive used by Eminence is superglue (cyanoacrylic). Run a bead of it around the joint, spray it with superglue accelerator for an instant cure.

[quote name='stingrayfan' post='965148' date='Sep 22 2010, 07:07 PM']Question is: where can I put it, to get a better sound other than back in the car?! Thanks[/quote] In a room without bare brick walls.

[quote name='PURPOLARIS' post='962724' date='Sep 20 2010, 04:04 PM']Is your new Bass Passive, you might have to let the amp know if it is.[/quote] He said it had a pre. I'd say the old bass was passive. Put the amp volume to full, take the gain only as high as required. It might have better adjustability with the volume on the instrument backed off. The amp is not the problem, gain structure is.

[quote name='Paul S' post='960954' date='Sep 19 2010, 04:53 AM']I wondered if it was the fact that it was an 18" cab or specifically a TE 18" cab that would have made the difference but have decided to wait for one to come along and buy it, rather than spend the rest of my life experimenting.[/quote]It was that specific cab/driver combintation. Tone is not determined by driver size alone.

[quote name='4-string-thing' post='960240' date='Sep 18 2010, 05:54 AM']Best alternative though, is to point out to your guitarists that they can turn down a bit and still get "their sound" Good luck![/quote]Two points. First, 'getting all of the watts out of my amp' isn't what gives most of the increase in output seen with using more cabs. It's the added sensitivity that does that. The quest for added watts is very much an exercise in acoustical engineering masturbation. Second, the same sensitivity gains applies to using multiple drivers. Guitar'd players with their 4x12s run 6dB louder than would a 1x12 driven with the same amp. If they need to push both amp and driver to a certain level to 'get my sound' without being obnoxiously loud they can just get rid of those stupid behemoths and use a sensible 1x12. But that wouldn't look nearly as cool, so forget about sensibility. And they wonder why we call them guitar'd players.

[quote name='Paul S' post='959826' date='Sep 17 2010, 02:38 PM']There must be drawbacks though?[/quote]It's a cheap driver loaded into a box that's too small, with ports about 1/3 the required area to work properly. It will give the same result as a cheap cab of similar design that's marketed as a bass cab, which is to say not a very good one.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='956726' date='Sep 14 2010, 06:07 PM']There are pretty awesome bass cabs with 12" speakers. The diameter of the speaker isn't the important bit.[/quote]Also quite right. For all the hoopla made about how different size drivers sound most of it is uninformed conjecture. The only factor influenced by driver size alone is dispersion. Everything else is determined by a dozen odd T/S specs, with driver cone area (Sd) being only one of them, and a rather insignificant one at that.

[quote name='Adrenochrome' post='956085' date='Sep 14 2010, 10:14 AM']Understood but my point was that I don't think reproducing those fundamentals of lower notes at volume is that important.[/quote]Quite right. The Fridge has a 58 Hz F3. Electric bass is defined by the harmonics.

[quote name='fryer' post='955744' date='Sep 14 2010, 04:37 AM']I'm thinking of building a bass cabinet. Normally cabs have 10" or 12" speakers. 8" speakers aren't listed as bass speakers on Blue Aran. Those that are listed only go down to say 50 Hz, so how do say Markbass get a bass sound from 4 of them in a cabinet ?[/quote] Getting eights to run to even 30Hz is no major accomplishment, they're common in hi-fi. The problem with eights is displacement, and that's what limits low frequency output. A good eight has about 70cc of displacement, so that's 280cc with four of them. Even a middle of the road fifteen has 400cc displacement, while a high end fifteen can have over 800cc. [quote]Smaller speakers give you a quicker ('tighter') response.[/quote]No, they don't. All drivers respond to signal at the exact same speed. Where smaller drivers have the advantage is in high frequency extension and dispersion. Eights can have midrange extension and dispersion twice that of a fifteen, so using a fifteen for the lows and an eight for the mids is a logical arrangement. Using eights for the lows, not so much.

[quote name='Chadderz' post='955252' date='Sep 13 2010, 02:32 PM']. My question is, therefore, will an extra cab increase the available volume?[/quote] An identical cab will increase output by 6dB. That's the equivalent of a quadrupling of power. [quote]Classic stack for bass with plenty of power - 1x15 & 4x10.[/quote]Classic and popular, but a poor match up. If one must mix drivers a 2x10 and 1x15 are a far better match. Keep the impedance of the two the same.

[quote name='markstuk' post='952798' date='Sep 11 2010, 10:20 AM']Can we start on XMAX and VD soon? :-)[/quote] VD is what you can catch if you're not careful about with whom you canoodle at the IMAX.

[quote name='munkonthehill' post='952141' date='Sep 10 2010, 01:58 PM']so what do I get in comparison of the 350watts and 500watts then?????[/quote] 2dB. To sound twice as loud requires 10dB. That's the difference between 350w and 3500w. And that 2dB is best case, assuming your speakers can make use of the additional power. Between thermal and mechanical power compression few speakers can actually make use of more than half their thermal wattage ratings, and most come in closer to 40%. So the answer might be no difference.

[quote name='Stylon Pilson' post='952090' date='Sep 10 2010, 12:57 PM']To the OP - if you do succeed in this, then prepare for somewhat disappointing results. S.P.[/quote]He should be prepared for total disappointment. Watts and volume are not directly related.

[quote name='largo' post='948086' date='Sep 7 2010, 05:56 AM']Or, is this 4 ohm cab simply a myth that most people make too big a deal of.[/quote]Myth. It arises from the assumption that sound levels and power levels are linear with respect to each other. They are not. Sound levels are logarithmic with respect to power; ie., it takes ten times the power to sound twice as loud. That being the case the roughly 70% power increase seen with a 4 ohm load versus 8 ohm load doesn't make a significant difference.

[quote name='btp' post='942902' date='Sep 1 2010, 07:50 PM']I was actually looking at the Eminence Legend BP102 -- they have a really low Fs (35Hz), high xMax, but a little less power handling, a little heavier, but MUCH cheaper... two of them would cost the same as one Celestion, if I could even locate one...[/quote] BP102s are great drivers at a low price, but they aren't good full range. Crossed over to a 6 inch mid no worries.

[quote name='btp' post='939735' date='Aug 29 2010, 08:47 PM']I've got a cabinet loaded with 2 Celestion BN10-300x -- it's a 3-way Dr. Bass 2060 slant face, with a 6" eminence mid and a selenium tweeter.[/quote] With the mids afforded by the 6" mid using high Fs tens is a very odd choice. I'd be looking at replacing them with long excursion tens with Fs between 35 and 45 Hz. Eminence will have some in the yet to be announced 3010 series, but those being at least 6 months down the road, perhaps a year in the UK, I'd look around for alternatives if you don't want to wait.

[quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='939699' date='Aug 29 2010, 06:55 PM']Speculating somewhat, but maybe this is down to mass; i.e. to make a recognisable neck shape requires quite a large mass of solid material, whereas on a cab you could use much thinner sheets (rather than 3/4" plywood or whatever) because graphite/composites are much stiffer per unit of mass. I'm prepared to be shot down in flames though. [/quote] You're on the right track. If a carbon fiber neck is solid it's flawed, as that doesn't take advantage of the stiffness of the material. It should be semi-hollow, consisting of multiple small chambers. But that entails a very high initial tooling cost. That's not as much concern with tennis rackets, which probably outsell electric basses by about a 10,000:1 ratio. Probably the best material for a bass cab would be carbon fiber honeycomb matrix. It works well enough in F-117s. But it ain't cheap, especially since most of it is gobbled up by the aerospace industry.

[quote name='Grant' post='939607' date='Aug 29 2010, 04:16 PM']But has anyone tried making bass cab enclosures with this stuff?[/quote]It's been done with PA, the cost verges on astronomical. Bass players being the cheapskates...excuse me, 'thrifty blokes' that they are, I doubt you'll see carbon fiber bass cabs successfully marketed.

[quote name='Jesso' post='934461' date='Aug 24 2010, 04:25 AM']So in most cases the audience may not even see the subs at all? They could be behind the stage, or off to the side, where ever there is a wall?[/quote]Yes. The output of subs is omnidirectional, so there's no need to see them. That's quite the opposite of tops, which are very directional. Dispersion and boundary loading characteristics below 100Hz versus above 100 Hz are completely different, so much so that if your subs and tops are in the same room location chances are about 20:1 that the results will be compromised, often severely so.

[quote name='Jesso' post='934302' date='Aug 23 2010, 06:21 PM']Thanks for answering. I have heard several times that it's better to place the subs together, but from an asthetic and stability point of view, Jesse[/quote]The choice is simple: do you want to look good or sound good? Where subwoofer placement is concerned more often than not it's a distinct choice between the two. [quote]Wouldn't putting the subs to one side of the stage be strange from a sound point of view?[/quote]No. Neither should they be away from walls, neither should they be pointed at the audience. This is admittedly all counter-intuitive, but the field of acoustics is very much counter-intuitive. Proper versus improper sub placement can account for as much as a 24dB difference in output. That's the equivalent of 10 watts versus 2000 watts.

Clipping is never good. It doesn't really bother the amp but will sooner or later toast the driver if the amp is capable of pushing the driver past either its thermal or mechanical limits. I'd be willing to be that you have the subs incorrectly placed, ie., split to either side, beneath the tops. Most operators do it that way, as subs don't come with placement instructions. Worse still are those with pole sockets that encourage that placement. The right way is explained here. The link specifically refers to horns, but all subs adhere to the same rules of placement. [url="http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=398&sid=3fb065f1be520fc61efeaf0adcd7ddea"]http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopi...efeaf0adcd7ddea[/url]

[quote name='Wil' post='923764' date='Aug 13 2010, 07:57 AM']Now, the Schroeder is rated to something like 1200 watts, so it should be able to cope with everything my head can throw at it, right?[/quote]Thermal ratings aren't worth diddly. A realistic displacement limited power rating for the Schro would be 300 watts.

Check out the Headcase at [url="http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.php/Fearful™_12/6_%26_15/6"]http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.php/Fea...™_12/6_%26_15/6[/url] Whatever you do don't duplicate or even imitate the Trace. It had the drivers horizontally placed, which should never be done.

[quote name='Machines' post='909507' date='Jul 29 2010, 01:16 PM']You bought an Ashdown for something more reliable ? Hahahaha... think of Ashdown as the bass equivalent of Alfa Romeo.[/quote] Does Alfa use Lucas Lighting? In college we always bought MGs in pairs. One to drive, one for the shop.

[quote name='3V17C' post='909247' date='Jul 29 2010, 09:02 AM']yeah could do that.. was just thinking that i won't get the full 575watts then though with an 8ohm cab on each ?....[/quote] Moot.