Bill Fitzmaurice

[quote name='chris_pokkuri' post='701345' date='Jan 5 2010, 05:36 AM']Hi all, happy new year! I'm planning on getting some effects soon. Just wondering what your opinions are on whether there is a better speaker size and configuration to use with distorted/overdriven bass? Cheers, Chris.[/quote] Effects do nothing below 100 Hz while they can destroy tweeters in a heartbeat. The best way to do it is to run a separate small guitar combo amp above the bass rig and run the effects through it only.

[quote name='pantherairsoft' post='483676' date='May 9 2009, 07:26 AM']WHich seems stupid as Ashdown seem to only make 8Ohm cabs, menaing they make nothing perfect for the Little Giant head... hardly a strong marketing idea![/quote] Get 8 ohm cabs. Each power amp is quite capable of driving an 8 ohm 1x12, 1x15 or 2x10 to full output, and if that's not enough you could use as many as four 8 ohm cabs total. 'Getting all the watts out' with only one cab per channel is a shortsighted view, unless the cabs in question are 4x10s.

[quote name='AlanP2008' post='700532' date='Jan 4 2010, 10:17 AM']2510: Resonance 53Hz, Usable Frequency Range 60Hz-4kHz, Sensitivity 97.3 2512: Resonance 42Hz, Usable Frequency Range 54Hz-3.7kHz, Sensitivity 99.9 2515: Resonance 42Hz, Usable Frequency Range 54Hz-3.7kHz, Sensitivity 99.2 Basslite S2010: Resonance 46Hz, Usable Frequency Range 54Hz-4kHz, Sensitivity 96.2 Thanks again Alan[/quote]These specs in and of themselves reveal almost nothing about how the drivers work when loaded in a cabinet. That can only be determined using all the driver T/S parameters with speaker enclosure modeling software like WinISD Alpha Pro for the region of pistonic function, roughly up to 200 Hz, and the SPL charts from the manufacturer driver data sheets for above 200 Hz. And then there's the matter of being able to interpret the results. BTW, if one only had the above data as predictors the differences between the four drivers listed would be, for all practical purposes, inaudible.

[quote name='AlanP2008' post='700376' date='Jan 4 2010, 07:39 AM']... I've come to the view that, as someone with an electronic engineering background, and in the distant past an audio engineering background, if I were designing a bass cabinet today, I wouldn't even consider 10" drivers -- 12" would be the minimum, for all sorts of reasons (resonant frequency and useful frequency range being just two of them...)[/quote] If you investigate further you'll find the differences between tens, twelves and fifteens in general are slight, while those between specific models of drivers are considerable. You'd also find that the 2x10 is, all things considered, the most versatile configuration when the drivers are vertically aligned (and most are not) while the 4x10 is the most intrinsically flawed. Where tens are concerned my preference lies with the Eminence Basslite S2010 and Deltalite II 2510.

[quote name='umcoo' post='699668' date='Jan 3 2010, 11:38 AM']I'm looking for a flight case for my 135 and castle cases do one for the bassman 100. I measured the 135 and the case and the case seems a really tight fit. Is that how they're supposed to be? Help me spend money folks![/quote] Check for yourself here: [url="http://www.ampwares.com/"]http://www.ampwares.com/[/url]

[quote name='gnasher1993' post='698816' date='Jan 2 2010, 11:37 AM']So what are the likely stats of that cab?[/quote]98dB/1 watt sensitivity is possible, with a -3dB reading at 45 to 50 Hz. But at 20 Hz it's likely only capable of 70dB/1 watt, with a maximum output at 20 Hz of only 80 to 85dB. 80 to 85dB at 20 Hz is inaudible. [quote]I tried one a few weeks ago and it sounded great, definitely at the top of my list to buy. I don't need frequency response that low so it doesn't matter, it's the sound I want.[/quote] No one needs response that low, and no one sells a bass cab capable of it, so it's silly to lie about having that capability. But that's what marketeers do. Truly useful information would be an SPL chart, polar plots and displacement limited power ratings, SOP in the high end PA world where the customer tends to be very knowledgeable about these things. But I guess if you're not paying upwards of two thousand quid per cabinet you're assumed by the manufacturers to be a rube who'll believe whatever they lay out there.

[quote name='gnasher1993' post='698745' date='Jan 2 2010, 09:27 AM']The Hartke Hydrive 1x15" has a great frequency response all the way down to 20 Hz.[/quote]Only in the fantasy world of marketing department schlockmeisters. In the real world the physics of how loudspeakers work render the claims of [i] Frequency Response: 20 Hz to 17 kHz Sensitivity: 98 dB @ 1 W/1 m[/i] totally beyond the realm of possibility. If you could package up all of the bullcrap contained in the Hartke webpage description of the HX 115 you could fertilize a goodly sized farm with it.

[quote name='absentmindeduk' post='698513' date='Jan 1 2010, 08:34 PM']I added the 115. The sound is definately more rounded and punchy at louder volumes.[/quote]Undoubtably. Virtually any two cabs together will sound considerably better than either one alone. There are instances where a specific 1x15 will have better low end capability than a specific 2x10. Unfortunately there's no way of predicting when that will be the case. One can, however, be assured that a pair of identical 2x10s will work well together, and far better than just one. If one doesn't have the opportunity to try both options side by side adding the additional 2x10 is the more prudent move.

[quote name='chris_b' post='697985' date='Jan 1 2010, 09:46 AM']Good 10's can handle a low B better than most 15's these days. I would add another 210 rather than a 115. Also I would roll off the Gain a little and get your volume by adding a little on the Master volume.[/quote]+1. The size of the driver has precious little to do with how low it will go, that's the product of many factors, not the least of them being the physical size of the cabinet.

[quote name='Bloodaxe' post='697513' date='Dec 31 2009, 02:38 PM']Usually fine, but best to avoid the North Atlantic in the iceberg season.[/quote]Only if you're on the White Star line. No problem on a Carnival Cruise. They can use the extra ice for the drinks.

Is there an FAQ section here? This same question pops up on at least a bi-weekly basis.

[quote name='chris_b' post='694796' date='Dec 28 2009, 07:33 AM']How loud is loud? I don't like combos and would always go for a separate amp and several cabs. I think it's more flexible, you get more for your money and you can upgrade more easily.[/quote]+1. Combos are made to be convenient, and to keep the overall size, weight and cost down they usually compromise on the quality of the speakers. Even if the drivers are of decent quality when the cab is too small they just won't work well.

[quote name='fergy1971' post='694045' date='Dec 26 2009, 06:45 PM']what would be the main issues?[/quote]Instead of your drummer sounding bad both you and he would sound bad. Leave it at that. On this side of the pond if you're not playing the best rooms it's expected you will provide your own PA. If you don't have one you'll never graduate to the rooms where you won't need it.

[quote name='Adrenochrome' post='693975' date='Dec 26 2009, 04:09 PM']Actually I can see more probs than I could write down. Put him through the PA![/quote]+1. There are a dozen downsides to putting drums through your rig and no upsides.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='686219' date='Dec 16 2009, 07:20 AM']You can break a 300w rated speaker with 200w, if that 200w is low enough to drive it past excursion limit.[/quote] Not likely, you must exceed xlim to cause damage, not xmax. But an amp rated 200w at 1% THD may hit 400w at 10% THD, and that could exceed both xlim and Pe. [quote]In amp rating, both Traynor and Ampeg measured the out put just before clipping to get the RMS, Max is the maximum the amp will put out.[/quote]Amps are measured at a specific THD percentage, using Root Mean Square voltage. Clipping is not part of the equation. [quote]In speakers it is pretty much the same RMS= max signal before the speaker begins to break up, and max is the total amount you can push before damage.[/quote]Speakers are thermally rated according to specific EIA procedure, using power quantified by said Root Mean Square voltage.

[quote name='civictiger' post='689225' date='Dec 19 2009, 12:16 PM']ahh nice one mate I was just wondering because I dont particularly like 115's. especially on their own. too boomy and thick for what i want.[/quote] You're not paying attention. Driver size and response are only peripherally related. Try a dozen different fifteens, you'll get a dozen different tones. [quote]well, i guess a second 4x10 would never hurt anyone! but, would it be worth it? my amp atm is a 300w output, but the 410 I have with it atm is 250w (I think) so would adding another 410 even be worth it?[/quote] Adding an identical 4x10 will give you 6dB additional sensitivity, the equivalent of quadrupling power. BTW, while your current 4x10 may have a 250w thermal rating it's most likely displacement limited to no more than half that. Thermal ratings alone aren't useless, but almost. Unfortunately no major manufacturer gives displacement limited ratings. Most don't even know themselves what they are.

[quote name='civictiger' post='689184' date='Dec 19 2009, 11:35 AM']what would be the more punchier cab?[/quote] Since 'punch' is a purely subjective term one can't say. One also can't predict what any cab will sound like based on driver size alone, this explains why: [url="http://www.eminence.com/resources/data.asp"]http://www.eminence.com/resources/data.asp[/url] Most who combine a 1x15 and 4x10 do so assuming that a 1x15 will go lower than a 4x10. Usually that's not the case, nor will a 1x15 be as loud as a 4x10. The best addition to a 4x10 is another identical 4x10.

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='685184' date='Dec 15 2009, 08:59 AM']Thanks Bill In relation to the below spec sheet (or the snapshot of it here), which of those figures relate RMS power - Music Power or Rated Power? That's what I'm having trouble finding a definition for.[/quote] RMS will be the smallest figure, the one that many manufacturers would prefer not to reveal at all. BTW, that driver will be next to worthless for electric bass, 2mm xmax means it will fart out in the low end with no more than 50 watts input, making the thermal power rating rather moot. I wouldn't consider a driver with less than 4mm xmax. [quote]The trouble you will also have is that it's possible to damage a speaker with a rating of 300w, by only giving it 200w. Your ears would have told you, but underpowering can be just as deadly as overpowering[/quote]Speaking of piffel... Absolutely, positively untrue.

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='685153' date='Dec 15 2009, 08:34 AM']I've been sent a spec sheet for a speaker I have - listed on the spec sheet is a figure for rated power and one for musical power. Sorry to sound like a div, but rated power = peak and musical power = constant? How would that be referred to in terms of RMS power? ie if a cab is marked 300w RMS, what would that relate to? I should listen more I know.[/quote] RMS is real world power, the only figure that should be considered with either speakers or amps. Anything and everything else is marketing piffel.

[quote name='Peter Rand' post='683531' date='Dec 13 2009, 06:17 PM']I won't be running anything at full range. The plan is to send highs to the tens, lows to the fifteens. Anyone else??[/quote] Don't bi-amp. There's not enough difference in the response ranges of the speakers you're using to make it worthwhile. Bi-amping is only of benefit with speakers specifically designed for that purpose, and no electric bass cabs are. Even with a well designed multi-way system with woofer, midrange and possibly tweeters the power demands of electric bass are way too low for bi-amping to be useful.

[quote name='BassBen' post='678000' date='Dec 8 2009, 10:04 AM']I was reading about the Carvin BX500 in the BassPlayer magazine it got a good review. But I hve never owned one or met someone with one. Whats your thoughts? Cheers, Ben[/quote]California is a long way to ship it to if it ever needs warranty service.

[quote name='Moos3h' post='675950' date='Dec 6 2009, 01:14 PM']Nutsacks. That's a pain. Sigh - the search continues.[/quote] You can get 4ohm BP102s here: [url="http://www.speakerhardware.com/legend_bp102_4-SPKBSBP102-4Legend.php"]http://www.speakerhardware.com/legend_bp10...102-4Legend.php[/url] They can't ship outside the US direct to you, but this explains how to get around that problem: [url="http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9905&sid=7de0486e001ea6e38dd7f5cde25ce01c"]http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopi...dd7f5cde25ce01c[/url]

[quote name='Moos3h' post='675931' date='Dec 6 2009, 12:55 PM']Given that 2 x 10 is quite a common setup, why does no-one have any?[/quote]Because the average buyer wants a 4 ohm cab 'so I can get all the watts out of my amp' so few 4 and 16 ohm drivers are produced, and most of those are OEM that you have to buy from the speaker manufacturer, if they'll sell them.

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='670265' date='Nov 30 2009, 01:42 PM']Putting aside what they actually do (or claim to do), I've used them in the past and they can make a dramatic improvement to the tone of certain set-ups BUT if you have a top quality rig then the BBE makes less sense. I'm not being elitist or dismissing the Sonic Maximiser, as I rate them very highly (I presently use a BBE acoustic preamp with SM circuit for my acoustic guitar and it makes a world of difference). 'Lazy EQ'... maybe, but what's wrong with that if it does the job? [/quote]+1. They can make a poor rig sound better, but if anything tend to make a good rig sound worse. Be sure to try it before you buy it.

[quote name='Moos3h' post='669203' date='Nov 29 2009, 11:21 AM']Yep, there's a Little Giant chassis lurking in there when you take it out of the ridiculous amount of metal it sits in.[/quote]I haven't looked inside mine to be sure but I suspect that one could retro-fit an internal fan as well, to duplicate the Little Giant.