Bill Fitzmaurice

[quote name='chris_b' post='694796' date='Dec 28 2009, 07:33 AM']How loud is loud? I don't like combos and would always go for a separate amp and several cabs. I think it's more flexible, you get more for your money and you can upgrade more easily.[/quote]+1. Combos are made to be convenient, and to keep the overall size, weight and cost down they usually compromise on the quality of the speakers. Even if the drivers are of decent quality when the cab is too small they just won't work well.

[quote name='fergy1971' post='694045' date='Dec 26 2009, 06:45 PM']what would be the main issues?[/quote]Instead of your drummer sounding bad both you and he would sound bad. Leave it at that. On this side of the pond if you're not playing the best rooms it's expected you will provide your own PA. If you don't have one you'll never graduate to the rooms where you won't need it.

[quote name='Adrenochrome' post='693975' date='Dec 26 2009, 04:09 PM']Actually I can see more probs than I could write down. Put him through the PA![/quote]+1. There are a dozen downsides to putting drums through your rig and no upsides.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='686219' date='Dec 16 2009, 07:20 AM']You can break a 300w rated speaker with 200w, if that 200w is low enough to drive it past excursion limit.[/quote] Not likely, you must exceed xlim to cause damage, not xmax. But an amp rated 200w at 1% THD may hit 400w at 10% THD, and that could exceed both xlim and Pe. [quote]In amp rating, both Traynor and Ampeg measured the out put just before clipping to get the RMS, Max is the maximum the amp will put out.[/quote]Amps are measured at a specific THD percentage, using Root Mean Square voltage. Clipping is not part of the equation. [quote]In speakers it is pretty much the same RMS= max signal before the speaker begins to break up, and max is the total amount you can push before damage.[/quote]Speakers are thermally rated according to specific EIA procedure, using power quantified by said Root Mean Square voltage.

[quote name='civictiger' post='689225' date='Dec 19 2009, 12:16 PM']ahh nice one mate I was just wondering because I dont particularly like 115's. especially on their own. too boomy and thick for what i want.[/quote] You're not paying attention. Driver size and response are only peripherally related. Try a dozen different fifteens, you'll get a dozen different tones. [quote]well, i guess a second 4x10 would never hurt anyone! but, would it be worth it? my amp atm is a 300w output, but the 410 I have with it atm is 250w (I think) so would adding another 410 even be worth it?[/quote] Adding an identical 4x10 will give you 6dB additional sensitivity, the equivalent of quadrupling power. BTW, while your current 4x10 may have a 250w thermal rating it's most likely displacement limited to no more than half that. Thermal ratings alone aren't useless, but almost. Unfortunately no major manufacturer gives displacement limited ratings. Most don't even know themselves what they are.

[quote name='civictiger' post='689184' date='Dec 19 2009, 11:35 AM']what would be the more punchier cab?[/quote] Since 'punch' is a purely subjective term one can't say. One also can't predict what any cab will sound like based on driver size alone, this explains why: [url="http://www.eminence.com/resources/data.asp"]http://www.eminence.com/resources/data.asp[/url] Most who combine a 1x15 and 4x10 do so assuming that a 1x15 will go lower than a 4x10. Usually that's not the case, nor will a 1x15 be as loud as a 4x10. The best addition to a 4x10 is another identical 4x10.

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='685184' date='Dec 15 2009, 08:59 AM']Thanks Bill In relation to the below spec sheet (or the snapshot of it here), which of those figures relate RMS power - Music Power or Rated Power? That's what I'm having trouble finding a definition for.[/quote] RMS will be the smallest figure, the one that many manufacturers would prefer not to reveal at all. BTW, that driver will be next to worthless for electric bass, 2mm xmax means it will fart out in the low end with no more than 50 watts input, making the thermal power rating rather moot. I wouldn't consider a driver with less than 4mm xmax. [quote]The trouble you will also have is that it's possible to damage a speaker with a rating of 300w, by only giving it 200w. Your ears would have told you, but underpowering can be just as deadly as overpowering[/quote]Speaking of piffel... Absolutely, positively untrue.

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='685153' date='Dec 15 2009, 08:34 AM']I've been sent a spec sheet for a speaker I have - listed on the spec sheet is a figure for rated power and one for musical power. Sorry to sound like a div, but rated power = peak and musical power = constant? How would that be referred to in terms of RMS power? ie if a cab is marked 300w RMS, what would that relate to? I should listen more I know.[/quote] RMS is real world power, the only figure that should be considered with either speakers or amps. Anything and everything else is marketing piffel.

[quote name='Peter Rand' post='683531' date='Dec 13 2009, 06:17 PM']I won't be running anything at full range. The plan is to send highs to the tens, lows to the fifteens. Anyone else??[/quote] Don't bi-amp. There's not enough difference in the response ranges of the speakers you're using to make it worthwhile. Bi-amping is only of benefit with speakers specifically designed for that purpose, and no electric bass cabs are. Even with a well designed multi-way system with woofer, midrange and possibly tweeters the power demands of electric bass are way too low for bi-amping to be useful.

[quote name='BassBen' post='678000' date='Dec 8 2009, 10:04 AM']I was reading about the Carvin BX500 in the BassPlayer magazine it got a good review. But I hve never owned one or met someone with one. Whats your thoughts? Cheers, Ben[/quote]California is a long way to ship it to if it ever needs warranty service.

[quote name='Moos3h' post='675950' date='Dec 6 2009, 01:14 PM']Nutsacks. That's a pain. Sigh - the search continues.[/quote] You can get 4ohm BP102s here: [url="http://www.speakerhardware.com/legend_bp102_4-SPKBSBP102-4Legend.php"]http://www.speakerhardware.com/legend_bp10...102-4Legend.php[/url] They can't ship outside the US direct to you, but this explains how to get around that problem: [url="http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9905&sid=7de0486e001ea6e38dd7f5cde25ce01c"]http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopi...dd7f5cde25ce01c[/url]

[quote name='Moos3h' post='675931' date='Dec 6 2009, 12:55 PM']Given that 2 x 10 is quite a common setup, why does no-one have any?[/quote]Because the average buyer wants a 4 ohm cab 'so I can get all the watts out of my amp' so few 4 and 16 ohm drivers are produced, and most of those are OEM that you have to buy from the speaker manufacturer, if they'll sell them.

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='670265' date='Nov 30 2009, 01:42 PM']Putting aside what they actually do (or claim to do), I've used them in the past and they can make a dramatic improvement to the tone of certain set-ups BUT if you have a top quality rig then the BBE makes less sense. I'm not being elitist or dismissing the Sonic Maximiser, as I rate them very highly (I presently use a BBE acoustic preamp with SM circuit for my acoustic guitar and it makes a world of difference). 'Lazy EQ'... maybe, but what's wrong with that if it does the job? [/quote]+1. They can make a poor rig sound better, but if anything tend to make a good rig sound worse. Be sure to try it before you buy it.

[quote name='Moos3h' post='669203' date='Nov 29 2009, 11:21 AM']Yep, there's a Little Giant chassis lurking in there when you take it out of the ridiculous amount of metal it sits in.[/quote]I haven't looked inside mine to be sure but I suspect that one could retro-fit an internal fan as well, to duplicate the Little Giant.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='669143' date='Nov 29 2009, 09:52 AM']For me that pretty much defeats the object of having one. The basic unit fits nicely into the "shortboard" pocket of the Line 6 pod gig bag so I can get my complete secondary rig into an easily carryable form, instead of a bulky 6U rack case that my main rig occupies.[/quote] Not at all. Strip off that aluminum crap and you end up with a physical package identical to the Little Giant, and half the weight of what it is now.

[quote name='derrenleepoole' post='668989' date='Nov 29 2009, 06:21 AM']The Superfly is a good head on paper but is let down by overheating issues, grossly overweight for it's size and build quality issues.[/quote] For those who do have them ditch the heavy aluminum outer casing and handle. If that case was properly finned it would weigh a third what it does and would slough heat away, but it isn't finned, so all it accomplishes is to double the weight of the amp and retain heat. Rack mount the innards and put a computer fan in the rack and the heat issues, and the long term damage it causes, disappear.

[quote name='Commando Jack' post='668698' date='Nov 28 2009, 04:00 PM']Hi, I've been looking a new rig, which will be my first giggable rig for small to medium venues. I was initially after a reasonably powerful combo, but since rummaging around on this site, I'm now on the fence about getting separates instead! So it's open season here. A friend of mine recommended [url="http://www.theacademyofsound.co.uk/"]this site[/url], and said he got a 'great' deal on an Ashdown superfly [url="http://www.theacademyofsound.co.uk/Ashdown_Bass_Amplifiers/Ashdown_Superfly_1000_Bass_Guitar_Head_Amplifier"]here.[/url][/quote]I like my Superfly, but I wouldn't pay that price for one. Mine was $199 US two years ago. I wouldn't pay more than that now. If you go for one you'll need two 4 ohm cabs to get the most from it. I'd use a pair of 2x10 or 2x12.

[quote name='harmonicfish' post='665454' date='Nov 25 2009, 01:53 PM']Ok, time to set myself up as a target for ridicule There are a lot of threads in this forum regarding lightweight cabs (indeed there's a whopping great sticky right at the top), but a lot of the time these cabs, although light, are just as bulky as their heavier brethren.[/quote] You've got your Hoffman's Iron Law a bit askew. The rule is low, small, efficient. Pick any two. Weight doesn't enter into the equation. Using lightweight materials, the right construction methods, and long excursion neo drivers you can go low, loud, small and light. The downside is that it won't be as efficient as a larger box, especially one loaded with more than one driver, so you need more amp power. Lightweight materials (12mm plywood) built using the right construction methods and long excursion neo drivers are an expensive combination, too expensive for any of the usual sources to offer them AFAIK. Aside from custom made and DIY Barefaced is likely the only source for cabs of that sort on your side of the pond.

[quote name='ase_one23' post='662905' date='Nov 23 2009, 12:05 PM']would this really make things 'louder' though?[/quote]Yes, by a substantial margin. Put them one atop the other for best results.

[quote name='ashevans09' post='660744' date='Nov 20 2009, 10:22 PM']I've recently been noticing that a couple of bands have taken to pointing their cabs away from the audience, with the backs facing them instead. Now this seems slightly odd to me to say the least - surely you'd want to throw sound out right? And this is on all size venues too. I first noticed it at sonisphere during this performance (nice aguilar rig btw): And also noticed Paramore doing it on smaller indoor venues, bassist included. What is the reason for this? Is it just an aesthetic thing?[/quote] If they're running in ears they don't need to hear the cabs directly, and pointing them backwards would allow them to be run at high levels without interfering with what the audience hears, which is the PA.

[quote name='spinynorman' post='657403' date='Nov 17 2009, 02:37 PM']We're using a Mackie SRM350 as an active monitor for vocals, but the singer often can't hear herself.[/quote] Only one? A monitor per player/singer is the norm, and EQ isn't an option, it's mandatory. If that's all in place and she still can't hear herself: turn the instruments down.

[quote name='fatback' post='655917' date='Nov 16 2009, 08:11 AM']Do amps with DI usually have it post or pre eq? fatback[/quote] Better amps have a switch to choose either.

[quote name='Jigster' post='655219' date='Nov 15 2009, 10:15 AM']okay ta - does any of that go towards explaining why sound guy at my gig last night did a line out connection for my amp? I understand the DI principle but am struggling to see the diff to line out!! [/quote] Line out is unbalanced, which is fine if used to go to a slave power amp that's plugged in to the same AC outlet or power strip as your amp, but can lead to serious ground loop noise when run to a remote device, like a mixer. DI is a balanced send, which eliminates the potential for ground loop noise.

[quote name='gary mac' post='654438' date='Nov 14 2009, 08:22 AM']I know it's tempting to save on lugging stuff about, but I think it's a bad plan Peter. I've seen what happens to stuff in my shed, even when well wrapped.[/quote] +1. And leaving it covered won't discourage thieves. Quite the reverse, they'll break in just to see what you've hidden.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='651246' date='Nov 10 2009, 07:33 PM']I'd hope so. Too much lecturing on the internet and not enough carpentry is that guys problem. See how Bill makes everyone do their own carpentry leaving him free to tell people stuff on the internet. Cunning chap.[/quote] Why spend 14 hours a day in the kitchen cooking when you can make twice as much selling cookbooks?