Bill Fitzmaurice

[quote name='finnbass' post='170005' date='Apr 4 2008, 02:48 PM']I'm not really sure I'd want to be in the same room as a crowd of people who'd spontaneously applaud a DVD....[/quote]Not even Pamela and Tommy Lee?

[quote name='bremen' post='168910' date='Apr 3 2008, 05:25 AM']Which of us, if we had the cash, wouldn't want to do that to our basement![/quote]Not I. My 8 cu ft horn loaded sub provides all that I need and all that She Who Must Be Obeyed will tolerate

Lift the cab up by a couple of feet. That will eliminate boom frequencies in the midbass without killing the low end. Electronically a parametric EQ is best, as it can notch out the boom without killing the low end. Also be very cognizant of cab distance from the rear wall, adjusting that can also notch out boom frequencies. Pads are of very limited value, all they can do is filter vibration of the cabinet walls, and if your cab walls are vibrating you've got a whole 'nuther set of issues.

[quote name='david_l_perry' post='163537' date='Mar 26 2008, 02:39 AM']Neo drivers have been being used by Bass cab manufacturers and DIY bass cab manufacturers for a number of years.[/quote] Most notably by JBL in their PA cabs well over a decade ago, though JBL has never made them available other than in finished cabs.

[quote name='Jamesemt' post='159437' date='Mar 18 2008, 06:19 AM']Any ideas? The 'bug' was plugged into my Fender Precision, with the aerial resting on the bridge.[/quote] Fan cool the rack. If you haven't already ditched the aluminum front and side plates on the Superfly do so.

[quote name='Mottlefeeder' post='158766' date='Mar 17 2008, 03:23 AM']As we agreed last time you auditioned it in our church hall, the Omni 12 is very good as a full range PA cab. Whether its perceived weakensses as a bass guitar cab can be fixed with EQ (and amplifier headroom?) is something we have not really explored.[/quote] While the Delta 12 LF was about as good a true musical instrument woofer available when introduced, and is still better than most, it's not in the same league as the Kappalite 15 neos. Kappalite 12s are at least 10 months away. When they do come out I'm sure the 3012LF will become the recommended woofer for the O12, as it should offer much better performance whilst weighing half as much as the Delta 12 LF. Meanwhile round-wound players just need to roll off the mid EQ more than they're used to with most commercial cabs.

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='157025' date='Mar 13 2008, 05:13 PM']I remember you keep saying that Bill but can never remember why. Remind me.[/quote]Because the responses of the two cabs are different, and the result is akin to adding oil and water. If you want to use a fifteen to get maximum low end that's fine, and if you want to run a smaller driver to get better mids and high that's fine too. But the smaller driver shouldn't be a twelve or ten, it should be an eight or a six, and a crossover should be employed so that only the lows go to the 15, and only the mids and highs to the smaller driver. That's how it's been done in high-fidelity, theatrical and PA applications since circa 1927. Perhaps the electric bass cab industry will wake up and smell the coffee by 2027. Perhaps not.

[quote name='Paul_C' post='156949' date='Mar 13 2008, 02:32 PM']If you have (as I'm planning at the moment) two 8 ohm cabs, one a 1x12 250w, the other a 1x15 300w and you're running them from a single amp which is 500w @ 4ohms, will one cab dominate the other, or are they reasonably closely matched ?[/quote]What's more to the point is whether their responses will complement or detract from each other. The majority of the time the latter is the case. One of the first things you learn in How to Design Loudspeakers 101 is never to mix different drivers or cabs covering the same bandwidth. Yes, I know, that's how it's always been done with bass cabs, but that doesn't make it any less wrong. My advise: don't do that.

[quote name='bremen' post='155911' date='Mar 12 2008, 07:30 AM']indeed - at frequencies that low the room is as important as the box, so it's only outdoors that it's going to be practical to hear 32Hz.[/quote] Au contraire. The best results below 40Hz are indoors, in rooms where the longest dimension is less than 14 feet, as that's where cabin gain at a rate of 12dB/octave will result in high enough SPL to hear it. To understand why google 'Equal Loudness curves'. To hear a 25Hz tone at the same level as a 100 Hz tone at 100dB the 25hz tone would have to be 120dB, and getting 120dB at 25 Hz outdoors even with a very large horn-loaded sub woofer would require about 1,000 watts. I've tested many subs outdoors, and at 25Hz and 100dB if not for the reading of the meter one would not even know there was any sound present. To the OP, faggedaboutit, you don't need response to 28 Hz and couldn't use it even if you had it. [quote]Accugroove Bill Dickens[/quote] Not a bad choice, but does not perform as advertised. [url="http://billfitzmaurice.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2362"]http://billfitzmaurice.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2362[/url]

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='152115' date='Mar 5 2008, 06:48 PM']True we also have the singers nearly new 300 watt EV 1x12's (not sure of the model). Would there be any pro or con using either of these sets of mid/tops with a bin? I basically feel that the transient response of the EVs and there comparative newness will be of greater benefit than a pair of well gigged 15 year old 1x15s, right or wrong?[/quote]15s have poor midrange response and dispersion, as well as being quite large, and offer no advantages when used with a sub. OTOH if those EVs are of the plastic fantastic variety those old Peaveys may still prove better; there's only one way to find out. As for the sub capacity, generally speaking you need at least one sub per top to have adequate output. With high energy DJ mixes a four to one sub to top ratio isn't unusual.

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='151345' date='Mar 4 2008, 04:15 PM']we'd be struggling with phase cancellation with two as we'd not get them far enough apart[/quote]Simple cure: put them together.

[quote name='Merton' post='151559' date='Mar 5 2008, 05:12 AM']I didn't say it made a difference to the sound, it makes a difference to the amount of power going down the first lead. But I did also say that it doesn't matter, you can connect how you want! [/quote]+1. You probably won't hear it, but daisy chaining does result in the cable connected to the amp carrying twice the current than otherwise. [quote]There's an audible difference between my rig with a brand new Stagg speakon and an OBBM speakon. That's not imagined, I've done a double blind test. I could always tell the difference between the two with 100% accuracy. The OBBM cable sounds that much better.[/quote] 'Better' is the wrong choice of words, technically speaking. No cable can make anything sound better. OTOH, a poorly built cable can make something sound worse.

This interesting tidbit came my way today: [url="http://consumerist.com/362926/do-coat-hangers-sound-as-good-monster-cables"]http://consumerist.com/362926/do-coat-hang...-monster-cables[/url]

WinISD will do dual chamber bandpass reflex, but you have to tweak the parameters manually. It's probably the least useful cabinet type for MI use as it has a very narrow passband and is extremely fussy to realize. It also demands a full crossover, by either bi-amping or passive, both being expensive propositions.

[quote name='BMoney' post='149562' date='Mar 1 2008, 01:46 PM']is it worth spending 60 quid on a cable or am i better of getting a cheapy cable? .[/quote] No. Allow no more than three pounds per meter, another five for the connectors.

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='143551' date='Feb 20 2008, 04:43 AM']Not exactly! They had two slotted ports in a baffle in front of the (single) 12"(?) Driver. More like a very short back-to-front transmission line enclosure...[/quote] A transmission line is a quarter-wave device, so anything less than three feet or so is more likely a reflex duct.

[quote name='tauzero' post='143106' date='Feb 19 2008, 10:15 AM']Are there any implications of the horn-loaded design that would preclude using moulded cabs?[/quote]Only the $250k cost of the molds. You have to sell a lot of cabs to amortize that, which is why you see cheap PA cabs that are sold by the boatload built that way, but not high end cabs that have yearly production runs at best in the thousands, if not hundreds.

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='143009' date='Feb 19 2008, 07:43 AM']Most efficient is going to be horn loaded cabs like Bill Fitzmaurice. Shame no bass cab manufacturer does anything similar and I cant help but wonder why.[/quote] The labor cost for a horn loaded cab is three to ten times that of a direct radiator. BTW, horn loaded cabs aren't necessarily any larger than direct radiators with equal capabilities, and in many cases are actually smaller. A horn loaded 1x10 can equal or better the performance of a direct radiating 4x10 of similar size. But the horn loaded ten might entail $500 labor cost to build, while that of the direct radiator is only $50. With the cost to the manufacturer of ten inch OEM drivers about $40 each the far more profitable route is the direct radiator.

[quote name='Mums fella' post='139319' date='Feb 13 2008, 05:04 AM']I didn't realise you had a preamp on your bass as well. Does the hissing go away when you disconnect your bass? Larry[/quote]Some hiss is inevitable, but this is where having a LPad on the tweeter to reduce its sensitivity can help to fine tune the system for the best result. That's usually obtained by boosting the highs as early as possible in the signal chain, starting at the bass if it has on-board, and cutting them at the opposite end.

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='139040' date='Feb 12 2008, 02:43 PM']It looks like Cerwin Vega dont sell their drivers and just do cabs now - serious cabs mind [url="http://www.cerwinvega.com/vegabass.php"]http://www.cerwinvega.com/vegabass.php[/url][/quote] Obsolete IMO, too large a driver coupled with too small a horn. The minimum length for a horn to work to 40 Hz is seven feet, and when you load an 18 into a box that size there simply isn't room for a seven foot horn. For that matter I wouldn't use less than a twelve foot horn in a box that size.

[quote name='thinman' post='139050' date='Feb 12 2008, 02:55 PM']I notice that the Basslite S2010 recommended by Bill is now stocked by www.bluearran.co.uk so I could consider them but I notice also that their power handling is 150W RMS compared with 250W for the others being discussed.[/quote]Not moot, but almost. Since the S2010 and 2510 have the same displacement they handle the same amount of power before the onset of distortion. To be safe with one cab/driver I'd go for the 2510, but with two I don't see the need.

[quote name='TheRev' post='138899' date='Feb 12 2008, 09:48 AM']I have beta 10s in my Omni 10.5s and i reckon they sound great. The general opinion over on Finnbass is that the deltalites have a more pronounced midrange compared to the Beta 10s. The Omni cab designs are quite strong in the midrange as well, so putting the two together may be too much if midrange isn't your thing... As Merton said, it's all down to personal taste but if the weight saving isn't an issue then I don't think you'll be disappionted with the Beta 10s[/quote]All things considered the Basslite S2010 is probably the best all-round choice if you're using two or more of them, with response similar to the Beta 10, displacement the same as the 2510 and the lowest weight of the three. The main problem with them in the UK is finding them.

[quote name='Merton' post='138802' date='Feb 12 2008, 07:48 AM']Thumper and Bill do disagree on this, becasue it's a purely personl choice. So I'd say screw the money consideration, do some research about the sounds of the two and choose because of that![/quote] From a technical standpoint the 2510 has higher midrange sensitivity and 147cc displacement versus 102cc for the Beta 10.

[quote name='BOD2' post='138855' date='Feb 12 2008, 09:01 AM']Thanks for that correction. It seems it's the cone movement that's the critical dimension in any case.[/quote] The technical spec is Vd, the volume displacement of the cone at full excursion, and can be found on the manufacturer's driver spec sheet.

[quote name='ped' post='137570' date='Feb 10 2008, 08:25 AM']Alex, I got the 210 because it was really cheap. I thought it sounded great - maybe it doesn't on paper, but where it matters it sounded really full and rich. It was supremely heavy though![/quote] And extremely power hungry. Basson makes a big deal about how large their magnets are and how much power they handle, which makes for good ad copy but not necessarily for a good speaker. Extremely large magnets result in lessened bass response. You end up with a cab that's twice the weight and requires four times the power to drive it than other cabs. To the OP, the 150 watt ratings of the MBC 410 drivers indicate that they're at the opposite end of the spectrum, probably entry level in quality, and chances are that cab doesn't do much below 70Hz. You don't need a cab that goes below 35Hz, but you do need one that's flat to at least 50 Hz. Unfortunately no manufacturer publishes accurate specs, so the only way to find out what works best is to try some along with your top. If your head has bi-amp capability and a built in crossover try it bi-amped with the crossover set around 125-150 Hz, using a 15" PA subwoofer cab.