Bill Fitzmaurice

Eminence has a factory in China, so they may have been real Eminence. US made Eminence use components sourced from Asia, so Asian and American Eminence are built from the same parts.

And that's not the worst of it. Totally inadequate, unless you use eight of them. 😒

Your sound is 1/3 amp, 1/3 speaker, 1/3 room. Guitar players are relatively unaffected by room acoustics and the finer points of speaker placement, but knowing how room acoustics and speaker placement affect the result is critical for bass players.

Thermal power ratings are worthless, as are driver sizes. The only way to know how cabs compare on paper is with SPL charts and driver excursion specs, which are written with invisible ink, stored away in the deep recesses of Churchill's bunker, guarded by Agents of Shield. 🤥 Since the K212 is local go try it, along side the 210. Then you'll know for sure.

The ring circuit notwithstanding it's as I surmised, the available current at the outlet may be much higher than the lead being plugged into it can handle, so the lead is fused. The US isn't all that different. Most circuits have a 20 amp capacity, while the lead going to, say, a lamp is only 15 amp rated. But that much differential isn't enough to justify separate fusing of the lead. In theory very low current devices could use a smaller gauge lead, say 5 amp or less capable, but we don't see that. Even with a table lamp the smallest gauge lead tends to be 1mm.

The only logical explanation for why else is to provide a secondary level of protection. Assume that the mains outlet uses wire with a 20 amp capacity, connected to a 20 amp breaker at the service entrance. Now assume the wire from the outlet to the device is only 10 amp capable, but it's connected to a 20 amp device. That wire could overheat and short out or cause a fire long before the 20 amp breaker tripped. Happens all the time. Separately fusing the lead at its capacity removes that hazard.

GB doesn't?

Not many listings in the UK probably because not many made their way to the UK. You'll find some at www.reverb.com and www.ebay.com. For instance: https://www.ebay.com/itm/144982421038?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1QHX3XjvPTzWl_jZ2F_t1NQ61&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=144982421038&targetid=1587262742097&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9002322&poi=&campaignid=19894961968&mkgroupid=148855406073&rlsatarget=pla-1587262742097&abcId=9307911&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQjw98ujBhCgARIsAD7QeAiIFak5XPfAirUR05QyDvaH516mB5KUXgw-xxMFK3G1NPuTIbKoD08aAjkIEALw_wcB

The same point as listening to music and TV on my home theater speakers as opposed to headphones. I prefer the ambience that you can't get with phones. As for monitoring, I've been monitoring all of our instruments through my floor wedges since I had a console capable of doing so, with a single feed. We've never had the desire or need to use individual feeds. It might not work for you, but it works for us.

IMO the 'Everything through the PA with no backline' pendulum, as opposed to huge backline with PA for vocals only, has swung too far. I started downsizing the backline, upsizing the PA, back in the 80s, based on the premise that the backline need only be large enough to have sufficient stage volume to allow one to get their preferred tone and feel, while the room is driven by the PA. That means no 810s, no Marshall stacks. Not even Vox AC30. But it doesn't mean no amps. As in all things the best results are had when one practices moderation.

That's what it means, but for the most part it's not the case. By and large bass combos and inexpensive powered PA boxes use the same woofers. In boxes of similar size they'll have similar low end response. PA boxes tend to use better high frequency components, which allows a lower crossover frequency. That doesn't make response any wider. It does make for better off-axis dispersion in the mids. The main difference lies in the amp EQ voicing. Bass amps tend to have a lot of coloration, powered PAs don't. Most players prefer the coloration of bass amps. If they didn't it wouldn't be there.

They should be the same polarity, the standard is for the + input connector to be wired to the + driver lugs, but it's not guaranteed. Once upon a time, for reasons unknown, JBL had the black lug positive, the red lug negative, the opposite of convention.

Quite right. Impedance alone doesn't define how loud a cab will go. It has nothing to do with power. The reason a 4 ohm speaker will go louder than an identical 8 ohm speaker is excursion. An amp at the same settings will deliver the same voltage into both, but the excursion of the 4 ohm speaker will be longer, so it will be louder. The fly in the ointment is if the speakers are identical other than impedance. They almost never are. If you compare the T/S specs on the Eminence Kappa 15A and 15C, one of the very few drivers made in 4 and 8 ohm versions, the rest of the specs aren't the same. Even the DCR isn't doubled from the 4 ohm to 8 ohm versions, they're 3.68 and 5.22 ohms respectively. Most significantly, the xmax of the 4 ohm is 2.44mm, that of the 8ohm version 4mm. That being the case the 8 ohm can go significantly louder than the 4 ohm.

If they'd banned jerks who went on endlessly about that which they knew nothing about I might still be there. There are three types who do gear forums: Those who want to learn, those who want to teach, and those who want to argue. I walked away when those who wanted to argue took over the place. 🤥

It is high passed. That's not something often seen with bass amps but it's SOP with PA subs. To do it with bass amps you'd use a Thumpinator or the like.

250w mechanical requires 8mm xmax. One of the best, and most expensive, tens is the Eminence KL3010LF, which has 8.5mm xmax. You won't find it in other than expensive boutique cabs. The more typical Deltalite II 2510 xmax is 4.2mm. It reaches xmax at 100w.

That's true, but...we run into that with horn loaded subs, which are so clean that they filter out harmonic distortion that warns of over-excursion. The cure is using a limiter, so that no matter how hot the amp input signal is it won't produce more voltage than the speaker can handle, either thermally or mechanically. Guitar amps routinely run with very high THD, and they use very short xmax woofers as well, so that clipping is produced by the speaker as well as the electronics. It bothers them as much as water does a duck. But they don't use tweeters, which wouldn't handle the high THD and would sound really bad as well. On that point if you've wondered why bass cab tweeters have an attrition rate that dwarfs that of woofers it's this, abnormal high frequency content that results from clipping anywhere in the signal chain, including pedals.

That's the Myth of Underpowering. Key word: Myth. Clipped signals can hurt tweeters by overpowering them. Woofers, never.

The lowest fundamental on a low B bass is 31Hz, but there's very little content at 31Hz. It's mainly 2nd and 3rd harmonics. The fundamental content doesn't equal the loudness of the harmonics until you get up around the open D string. Most of what we perceive as low bass is actually midbass, from 60 to 100Hz. One reason why bass can sound really bad through large PA is when a cretin at the FOH desk boosts the content below 60Hz. IME the best FOH mixers tend to be adept studio mixdown engineers and/or bass players. They'll usually high pass the bass channel strip at 60Hz, to account for the difference in how the bass sounds through bass speakers as opposed to giant PA subs. On the range of subs they're usually run from 30 to between 80 and 100Hz.

Cabinet building without T/S specs is very much qualified guesswork. Not that you couldn't get a good result, but to do so required a lot of trial and error, a lot of time and plywood.

Agreed. It may very well handle 1000w thermal, but probably can't take more than half that mechanical. If the OP can't get enough volume with that cab it's not a matter of having more power, it's a matter of having higher sensitivity. A second cab will give that, but anything other than an identical second cab is a crapshoot at best.

They may know what they were for but the likelihood that they have specs are slim to none, and I believe that Slim just left town. They once approached me about recommending their drivers in my designs. I said sure, give me the T/S specs. They didn't have them. This was around 2004-2005, so there's no way that they'd have them for drivers twenty to thirty years older than that. I wasn't able to get full data sheets from them until 2008.

Probably a guitar driver. AFAIK those intended for bass were called G-15 100B. They date from circa 1980, so not state of the art by anyn means.

I didn't get the impression that he wanted to use it for both.

Use a combo intended for acoustic guitar. A small one is sufficient, as you only want it for personal monitor and small venue use. In larger rooms mic it to the PA.