Bill Fitzmaurice

The PXB250 is a 250Hz low pass filter, which you'd be hard pressed to find a use for. That probably explains why he had it kicking about.

Crossovers are optimized (or should be) for use with specific drivers in specific enclosures. You might find someone in need of the PXB250, the other is a pig in a poke.

Get a different doctor. Beer isn't the culprit as much as the food that's usually consumed with it. https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/12/31/374187472/if-youre-toasting-for-health-beer-may-be-a-good-bet https://www.brook.health/blood-sugar-and-beer/ All things in moderation. Besides, if you give up all the things that make life enjoyable you don't live any longer. It just seems that way.

Where Canadian brews are concerned I prefer Moosehead, although sometimes the antlers hurt. 🙄

Using the Ric bass as a guide that cab is around 50 inches high, and maybe 40 inches wide. The Bassman 100 4x12 was 40 inches high, 30 inches wide.

It doesn't have the trim that the Traynor did. https://reverb.com/item/6168701-traynor-yc-810-big-b-8x10-cabinet-1971-pickup-only It's also too wide to be an Ampeg V9.

Looks like Fender cabs, but the bottom would have to be a 4x15 to be that large, and Fender never made one. Marshall did, but they didn't look like that.

The Declaration of Independence was declared on July 2. At that point the Continental Congress adjourned to nearby City Tavern, where they proceeded to go on a bender. It wasn't until July 4th that they sobered up enough to approve the final draft, and that's why it says ' IN CONGRESS, July 4, 1776' at the top. After that Congress went out tavern hopping again while 200 copies were printed up for distribution. All of the members didn't actually get around to signing the original until August 2. Then they went out drinking again, mostly rum, all of it smuggled into the country.

Dreadful doesn't begin to describe it. Healing will only begin when those responsible who are still living are brought to justice.

They go north/south as well. For instance, 'Oh Canada' is always played in the key of 'eh'. Hoser.

We haven't drunk tea in Boston since 1773. We drink Sam Adams beer, the colder the better! 😊

And after all that piffle about watts not a word about what really matters, voltage swing and cone excursion. Without mention of these actually pertinent factors the OPs question could have been answered with one word: Yes. Trying to confuse the Brits on where you're originally from, New England or Dixie? I know I've never heard anyone use both of those terms, always one or the other. It's almost as bad as when they refer to all Americans as Yankees. I'm no Yankee. I'm from Boston, I'm a Red Sox fan! Bad indeed, the discussion involves Z, not R.

A crack noise can happen when one of the devices in the signal chain runs out of headroom. It may be in the amp, it may be in the pre. The first thing I'd do is make sure there isn't too much bass EQ, as that eats up headroom like mad, in both the pre and the amp.

It's not a matter of HF protection. When you clip the amp or use distortion the high frequency content can be 10dB or more higher than normal compared to the low frequencies. It might be improved somewhat with a higher order filter (I haven't used a second order high pass for 50 years) but even 4th order filtering won't stop the highs that are so irritating. The only full on cure is to somehow attenuate the high frequencies when using distortion. Or do what I do, which is no distortion. I leave the guitar toys to guitar players. 😊

Now you know why guitar amps/speakers don't use tweeters. When you push an amp to clipping or use distortion there's massive harmonic distortion. It sounds good below roughly 5kHz, but horrid above that.

That. The crackling is mainly from dust between the pot wiper and track. Turning it fully a few times may clear the dust away. Only if it doesn't should you use a cleaner. It's a good idea to have a regular turning routine with all the pots, especially those that are seldom used, to keep the dust at bay.

By and large separates work better, and always have. Combos usually sacrifice function for the sake of a small form.

+1. Of all the factors that combine to determine how loud a rig will go power is the least significant. Those who are unaware of this basic rule are playing into the hands of 'the more watts', which is to say the more expensive, 'the better' marketing departments.

Penn Elcom used to have one but I don't see it on their site now.

I already explained it. It's the same as having a 1000 amp breaker at the nearest breakout transformer, followed by a 100 amp breaker on the service entrance, followed by ten amp breakers at the individual branch circuits. It adds one more layer of redundancy. For whatever reason the UK decided that extra layer of protection was warranted, while most of the rest of the world did not. I guess it's like wearing both a belt and suspenders, you halve the likelihood of your pants falling down. 😉

That appears to be a ground fault circuit interrupter, GFCI for short. https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Residual-current_device In the US they're usually built into the wall socket, where they've been a code requirement in kitchens, bathrooms, basements and outdoors for at least 20 years. They're often built into hairdryer leads as well, in the event they're used near a bathroom sink with an old outlet that's not GFCI protected.

There's some logic to fusing the cord. For example, assume that the breaker for the branch circuit that the outlet is on is 10A. Assume that a device plugged in to that outlet is uses a lead that's rated for 5A. A fault in the device or its lead could pull more than 5A, enough to perhaps start a fire, without tripping the breaker.

Assuming the 15 stands for 15 watts it's no more than a 3 amp fuse. 13A at 230v is 2990 watts.

The more likely scenario is that they stick the Eden name plate on inexpensive Asian imports to make them appear legitimate. That's what GC did with Acoustic, not to be confused (though they endeavor to so so) with Acoustic Control Corporation.

Power supply caps have a shelf life of 25 odd years, so it your amp is that old or older they could probably stand replacing. With vintage amps you might be able to upgrade the caps while replacing them, as capacity for a given physical size has gotten better over the last half century. Otherwise a periodic vacuuming of dust, lubrication of the pots and cleaning of the jacks is all you need be concerned with.