Bill Fitzmaurice

So if you send money for gear and the gear never arrives or it's broken or not as described you're left dangling in the wind. I'd rather the piece of mind with PayPal.

Does Transferwise offer seller protection?

That's when you started to see multi band EQs that were tailored more to either guitar or bass, and more emphasis on over-drive with guitar amps. Major differentiation was most common in SS amps.

Until roughly 1975 the only significant difference between guitar and bass valve amps was that guitar amps had reverb and tremolo, bass amps didn't.

Amps do have voicing, which is a specific frequency response. It can be changed, if you're an expert. If you're not you're about two years away from acquiring the necessary skills at an engineering school. That level of expertise would make going from a single tone control to a 3 band EQ an easy task. Without that expertise, no way.

Sealed cabs have a higher risk of driver damage. For equal output they don't have less excursion, they have more. For equal output they don't draw less power, they draw more. Ported cabs unload well below 100Hz, at least an octave lower on average. If you go low enough sealed has the advantage with respect to both excursion and power for equal output, but that tends to be below 35Hz, where it's of no consequence. High pass filters need not have a higher than 35-40Hz knee frequency for that reason, and their main purpose isn't to reduce low frequency note content, it's to reduce low frequency thump noise.

Cable characteristic impedance is a completely different topic, having no relation to speakers. When you see that a cable is 75 ohm it doesn't mean it measures 75 ohms end to end. The characteristic impedance of a coaxial cable is determined by the dielectric constant of the inner insulator and the radii of the inner and outer conductors. Since those factors are unaffected by cable length neither is the cable characteristic impedance.

There's no reason to sell the amp. Bridged it will handle a minimum load of 4 ohms. Minimum means that's the lowest value you may use, not the highest, nor the exact load you may use. Perhaps this will help: https://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19292 BTW, there's no such term as ohmage. The term you should be using is impedance. Ohmage is the made up word used by those unaware that ohms are use not only to measure impedance but also its components, resistance, capacitive reactance and inductive reactance, either separately or in combination.

If you're in the UK both fuses should be 4 ampere, if the purpose of the second fuse is to be a replacement spare. If the reason for having two fuses is to give the user the correct fuse for their supply voltage then they would be 4 amp and 8 amp. The truth of the matter should be revealed in the owner's manual.

They're not different, or at least they shouldn't be. The back panel shows two values, one for 110v operation, one for 220v.

Sure, this for instance, but it's a PA top, where 8s are appropriate. I wouldn't use them for bass, as they're not cost effective.

If loudspeaker software modeling software showed that it made a significant improvement over the original driver it could be worth it. If you can't confirm it first then just tossing in a driver based on watts and ohms alone would be a very unwise move.

PIxie dust.

Now you've got it. 😀

Google : 'Gain Staging'. The gain of the pre-amp and how the gain and/or volume controls are configured define how loud an amp will be at given knob settings. It doesn't affect actual output capacity. There are amps that produce full power with the knobs set at 3 or 4, but they don't produce any more power at higher settings. There are amps that are quite linear from zero to 10. In the case of the former some companies did so intentionally so in a music store their amp would be much louder at 3 or 4 than the one next to it, confident that they wouldn't be compared with both set at 8 or more, lest the store owner pull the plug.

If one knew exactly which drivers are offered it would be a simple matter to determine if it was worth paying more for Fane. I very much doubt that Hiwatt would be forthcoming with that information.

Impossible to qualify? Maybe. Impossible to quantify? Hardly. Watt, unit of power in the International System of Units (SI) equal to one joule of work performed per second, or to 1/746 horsepower. An equivalent is the power dissipated in an electrical conductor carrying one ampere current between points at one volt potential difference. Source: Encyclopaedia Britannica

A perusal of the history of Behringer's shenanigans gives said claims plenty of credence. But if you must, look at the power consumption of the amp. It's 880 watts. That means if the Bugera/Behringer claim is true it puts out more than twice what it draws from the wall socket. That either means they're deliberately lying or they failed to pass grammar school level physics.

What about valve amps? I fully understand how the use of compression can give the subjective impression of one amp being louder than another of the same rated power. That's what valves do. That's not the point. False advertising is.

They only get away with what we let them. Reference the TC watts controversy, when TC was caught red handed flat out lying about their power specs. You'd think that universal condemnation would have followed, yet a substantial percentage of TC owners defended TC, saying in essence that they didn't care if they were lied to, so long as the amps sounded good.

With a properly tuned port cone excursion will be less, not more.

That depends. Adding 8dB increases power delivery by a factor of 6.3, and cone excursion by a factor of 2.5. However, your bass doesn't create equal output at all frequencies. At 40 Hz it's probably at least 8dB lower than at the 2nd harmonic at 80Hz and the third harmonic at 120Hz, so all that 8dB boost might be doing is making the 40Hz, 80Hz and 120Hz content more equal, thus the source of the term 'equalizer'. If boosting the lows causes distortion don't boost them. If it doesn't you're probably OK.

Higher xmax is only a benefit if you have enough power to make use of it. The frequency plots you're looking at on data sheets are with the drivers mounted in a wall, not an enclosure. In your 17L enclosure with 85Hz tuning the 18Sound has only slightly higher maximum output, a bit less sensitivity, and similar response in the lows. The 2510 is considerably better in the mids. As for getting lower response, in short, not with that cabinet.

You won't lose any bottom end, and if anything boom will be reduced. You might lose some low end with am open stand that high, but the solid front of the case acts as an extension to the baffle to prevent it.

IMO never mix cabs. Find one cab that has the sound you like. If it's not loud enough use two.