Bill Fitzmaurice

[quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1506588510' post='3379698'] I also have a hazy memory of something from Economics at school - that Perrier water (I think it was them. Or another expensive water brand) was not originally called that name. It was something else and it was sold at a LOWER price that the other brands. It didn't sell at all - it was viewed as cheap. So it was rebranded and sold at a price 50% HIGHER than everyone else and it sold. It was now viewed as exclusive and luxurious. [/quote]I can't speak to Perrier, but in the US most bottled water is tap water. The bottles it comes in cost more than the contents. It's a true testament to the notion that no one ever went broke [i](or lost an election )[/i] underestimating the intelligence of the American public.

It could be that they know that they're entering an already flooded marketplace with a product that no one really needs, and that they'll probably only sell them to owners of their electronics as a result of brand loyalty. That makes the number of cabs they think they can sell quite small, which raises the cost of building them, so they're pricing them accordingly.

[quote name='Daz39' timestamp='1506521665' post='3379317']The same waffle from the group of reasons car manufacturers have used for decades to justify ripping the UK consumer off[/quote]It's not the car makers you have an issue with, it's the revenuers. Maybe it's time to fill the Thames with tea. [quote]US prices are all before sales tax: when online purchasing I think you only pay if you are resident in the state they come from. Or something like that. It does vary by State, County and City. [/quote]It's no longer like that. By and large internet sellers have to collect sales tax, both state and local, of the buyers residence. I avoid that by living in New Hampshire, which constitutionally does not allow broad base taxes. The only major taxes are on lodging and meals, which means they're mostly paid by tourists. As for these speakers, I don't see the point. They carry a price tag that could only be justified if they had new and/or superior technology, and there's no evidence of that.

[quote name='Count Bassy' timestamp='1506521715' post='3379319'] the power transfer efficiency from the secondary to the speaker is best when the two impendences are the same, and falls off if mismatched either way [/quote]That's why some amps have multiple taps. Nonetheless you won't get more power from a tube amp by using a lower impedance load the way you do with SS.

[quote name='la bam' timestamp='1506360486' post='3378230'] Personally I always start with the following on a 3 band eq then adjust. Bass around 10 o'clock. Mids around 7 o'clock. Highs around 10 oclock. [/quote]If that works for you fine, but the response of every amp is different, as is the response of every bass and every speaker. That's why there is no rule of thumb.

Having to use less low EQ isn't a negative quality, it's a positive quality, as it increases the amp's headroom and reduces driver excursion.

[quote name='Steve Browning' timestamp='1506344414' post='3378048'] Keep the Boogie!!!! Don't forget about the passive radiator and what that adds. [/quote]It adds the same thing that a port does.

[quote]Any rule of thumb for what the low, mid and high should be set to? [/quote]Where it sounds best.

[quote name='Raslee' timestamp='1506275702' post='3377534']Orange claim the speaker will get 500 watts in either setting. I wonder how that works ?[/quote]With an SS amp the power is delivered by the output transistors to the speakers. The lower the speaker impedance the higher the current draw and therefore the higher the power. Valves deliver their power into the output transformer. Since it presents a constant impedance load current, and therefore power, is also constant.

Thus sending 150w to the cab and 150w to the resistor.

[quote name='Balcro' timestamp='1506262963' post='3377399'] Check the label on the side of the Deltalites and the 15"unit. It may make the mating of the 1x15 and the 2x10 even more impracticable. [/quote]Not when bi-amped.

[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1506095062' post='3376467'] Though to answer your question, it's 3db. at a really low volume, you will hear a difference, but at normal playing volumes, it's a negligible amount. [/quote]3dB is audible, but not significant. If you add a second cab that will give you an additional 6dB, without touching a knob, and that is significant. But if you have a 4 ohm cab chances are you can't add a second cab, which the the #1 reason why you shouldn't consider a 4 ohm cab. #2 is that in the vast majority of cases the limiting factor on speaker output isn't power, it's driver excursion. If a 4 ohm and 8 ohm driver have the same excursion limit they also have the same maximum output. FWIW loudspeaker engineers seldom consider watts at all, while volts are key.

[quote name='Maude' timestamp='1506154448' post='3376734'] Wondered about the option of an 8ohm single speaker cab that you could flick a switch on that would put an 8ohm resister in giving a 4ohm load to the amp to get the most from the amp.[/quote]You could, and half of what the amp produced would be burned off in the resistor. It's as logical as driving with your brakes always on so you can get the most power out of your engine. [quote]I know it's pointless, but many pointless things have been made and sold. [/quote]And elected...

The power handling required of said resistor makes it impractical. That's why you don't see it done. Besides, you should never need more than two cabs, and if they're both 8 ohms there's no problem running one or the other or both. OTOH buying a 4 ohm cab is usually a mistake, unless it's large enough that you'd never need a second cab.

Solid wood is not a suitable material for large speakers. I'll use it for hi-fi speakers where the smallest dimension is no more than eight inches, but not for any professional cabs.

[quote name='aitkenaudio' timestamp='1506005715' post='3375840'] those are the two best plans you can get but if you wanna keep it simple the tl606 design is tried and tested [/quote]The TL606 came out forty years ago as a first generation T/S design, crafted around drivers that haven't been produced in 15 years, constructed with building techniques that haven't been used for even longer than that. Tried and tested yes, but also old and tired.

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1506005186' post='3375831'] But the amp will only produce its "full power" (300W @ 8 ohms, or 500W @ 4 ohms) if it is run flat-out with all controls maxed. How many of us ever do this? [/quote]That, plus the cab power rating doesn't necessarily reflect how much power it can actually make use of before the drivers run out of excursion. More often than not that's at less than half the rated power. Also, to sound twice as loud requires ten times the power. The flip side of that is at 1/10 the power it doesn't sound 1/10 as loud, it sounds half as loud. In short, the quest you so often see of "I want to get all of the watts out of my amp" is usually at best misguided, at worst delusional.

Grammas claim to fix something that isn't broken. Cabs don't cause stages to vibrate, resonant stages cause cabs to vibrate. Preventing that doesn't require an expensive piece of kit, a piece of yoga mat is all you need.

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1505906766' post='3375098'] I do notice loss of the bass coupling but i gain definition and can lower the volume. [/quote]At that height there's no loss of coupling to notice. What you will notice is being able to better hear the mids and highs, which can subjectively seem like a loss of lows.

[quote name='Jack' timestamp='1505847881' post='3374771'] But if we took a driver out, filled in the gap and then ported it, we'd have a 66l, ported 1x10" cab? [/quote]Since the OP intends on bi-amping with a 1x15 for the lows and the 2x10 for the mids and highs there's no reason to change the 2x10 from what it is. If he wanted to spend some $$$ to create a useful 2x10 or a pair of 1x10 then ported is the only way to go with his tens, but he doesn't want to.

Where coupling is concerned that happens when the cab is less than 1/4 wavelength from a boundary, be it floor or wall. 1 meter is 1/4 wavelength at 85Hz, so you won't lose low end coupling with even a tall stand.

[quote name='B.Flat' timestamp='1505817955' post='3374482'] Thanks again Bill, but tell me as the volume per chamber appears to be around double the Eminence advised max [/quote]That's how small a cab they may be used in, not how small they must be used in. [quote]wlll a port not have any beneficial effect over 100hz?[/quote]None.

I usually have my 1x12 on the floor, but tilted back so that I'm directly on axis with it to hear the mids and highs. If the stage is so small that I can't tilt it back enough I put it on a stand to get it up near ear level.

If you're using it with a 15 to handle the lows leave it sealed, cross it over between 100-150Hz.

The 2510 shouldn't be used in a sealed cab, the specs aren't suitable. Your f3 will be around 95Hz. That's fine for guitar, NFG for bass. A 33L per driver cab is much too small for the 2510. The ideal volume is 60L per driver, and that's not inclusive of the port. You can get a good result with as little as 45L per driver, but again, that's net, not including the volume of the port. In short, the cab size you have would be suitable for one 2510, but not two.