Bill Fitzmaurice

[quote name='dave_bass5' timestamp='1467554969' post='3084486'] And different voicing? [/quote]+1. All amps are voiced differently, based on the designer's preference. Gain structure tends to be more of a marketing tool. If you try Amp A and Amp B side by side with the same settings chances are you'll buy whichever is louder. I've seen amps that reach maximum output set at 5, with no increase in volume above that. Those also are the ones that get complaints that they won't go low enough.

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1467539776' post='3084321'] It is louder because it is louder not because it it is Class D. [/quote]+1. And it's probably not louder per se, the difference is likely attributable to different gain structures.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1467419711' post='3083626'] The RH750 goes to 2.67 ohms. It's on the web site. A 4 ohm cab with an 8 ohm cab is fine with this amp. Look at the table on page 7 [url="http://cdn-downloads.tcelectronic.com/media/914735/tc_electronic_bass_amp_power_rating___active_power_management.pdf"]http://cdn-downloads..._management.pdf[/url] min load column. . . . 2.66R. [/quote]One must read the fine print. They'll only handle 2.66 ohms with Active Power Management engaged, which significantly lowers output capacity. The same July 2011 Bass Gear review of the TC amps that discovered their overstating of actual RMS continuous measured output of their amps also discovered that the RS210 was 10.5 ohms, and the RS212 11.5 ohms.

[quote name='Musashimonkey' timestamp='1467397193' post='3083466'] The RH750 does let you string 3 TC cabs together [/quote]As I recall that's because the TC cabs are actually higher than 8 ohms.

[quote name='dave_bass5' timestamp='1467295973' post='3082622'] Probably not relevant to this thread on a technical level as i dont have any figures to post, but thought id post anyway. [/quote]Very relevant. What you often get in a rehearsal space, especially one with low ceilings, are cancellations from the waves reflected off nearby boundaries. When you move away the distance that those reflections travel increases, taking the cancellation frequencies down below where they affect you. The same thing happens in close quarters on a stage versus out in the audience. This phenomenon led to the myth of wave propagation, the silly notion that you can't hear long wavelengths at close distances. The wags who came up with that idea clearly had never used headphones.

[quote name='lowhand_mike' timestamp='1467116461' post='3081267'] eh? so what ive been told is all lies [/quote]What you've been told comes mainly from marketing departments, usually through advertising. So yes, lies.

[quote name='lowhand_mike' timestamp='1467110123' post='3081205'] Yes the cab can take 600w but your amp is running at 8ohm so you will at best get 2/3 of your 300w. adding another 8ohm cab will have the amp running at 4ohm and you'll get the full 300w. [/quote]Watts don't matter. You don't measure sound levels in watts, you measure it in decibels, and there's no direct correlation between the two. If there was a Vox AC30 wouldn't make your ears bleed from fifty feet away, nor would anyone be able to gig with an Ampeg B15. The simple fact of the matter is if you can't get the volume you want with one cab you need two cabs.

[quote name='Bigwan' timestamp='1467035935' post='3080637'] More speakers would help you more than more watts. Add another super compact. I say that knowing it's not cheap or easy to do, but the results would be better than adding more wattage. [/quote]Agreed. The added 200 watts that he might be able to make use of with one cab would give at best 2dB additional output. A second cab will give 6dB more output without changing amps.

When you give the back of the cab, or any part of it for that matter, the 'knuckle test' you should hear a high pitched solid 'whack', not a low pitched hollow thud. Spline bracing is better than no bracing, but what works better than any other method is a brace that connects to the opposing panel. Bracing and damping are two areas where manufacturers cut corners more than any other, as you can't see what is or is not inside the cab unless you open it up.

Any of the various recommended materials will work. Don't bother with the brace, it's too small to be reflective.

To successfully swap drivers you need to know the T/S specs and have a frequency response chart of the originals. Chances are that you can't find that information. IMO that's because manufacturers don't want you to be able to find a replacement elsewhere, or to realize in many cases how shoddy the originals are.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1465236319' post='3066405'] One stage only..or all stages? If one stage, EQ for that stage, if all stages, take some bass off [/quote]Response will be different on every stage and every room. Using EQ to fix the response in the hot spot where he's standing means losing low end everywhere else. Not having a hot spot by moving the cab and/or him is the solution. [quote]Trying to get an nice even sound around a pub right to the back and still be at a reasonable volume and clarity 2 foot away from a cab is always going to be a huge comprimise.[/quote]It's impossible, because room response is different at every spot in the room, and varies the most as you move away from the stage. Use the backline only to drive the stage and the PA to drive the room and you'll get a lot better result.

Try moving your rig, and his.

[quote name='molan' timestamp='1465143499' post='3065566'] Have you tried a Gramma pad? My Berg AE210, rear ported, can get boomy but I've found lifting it off the floor and isolating it seems to help quite a lot (especially with suspended wooden stages!). [/quote]Lifting, yes. 'Isolation', no. Thoroughly explained here: http://ethanwiner.com/speaker_isolation.htm

Rear and front ports will give the exact same result, because the radiation from ports is omni-directional. The issue is that midrange and high frequencies are directional, so the only ones who hear the full output of the cab are those within a cone shaped zone in front of the cab that progressively widens as the distance to the cab is increased. The best cure is to put the midrange and highs, but not the lows, through the monitors. If that's not an option the next best is to put yourself on one side of the stage, aiming the cab to the opposite front corner of the stage to make the dispersion more uniform over a wider area.

[quote name='SwamiRob' timestamp='1464619971' post='3060841'] Is there any clever tricks for getting a smoother top end. and filling that gap between mid-mids and treble that seems to appear on a typical tweetered cab? [/quote]Yes. Get a cab that uses a four to eight inch midrange driver instead of a tweeter. The problem with tweeters is that they typically work only above 3.5kHz, some much higher than that, while what you need is for them to start working no higher than 2kHz. There is a bass specific tweeter that will work to 2kHz with a 4th order crossover, the Eminence BGH-25, but I'm not aware of any cab manufacturer that uses it, so at this point it's a DIY proposition.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1464445385' post='3059519'] Running an amp at 4 ohms does not make it less reliable than running it at 8 ohms!! [/quote]True. OTOH going to a 4 ohm driver "to get all of the watts out of my amp" will at best result in a few dB of additional output, and depending on the driver specs it could actually have less output. This is of course totally predictable, using speaker response modeling software, but as the OP decided to leap before looking I give it a 50-50 shot that we'll see a 600w 4 ohm driver appearing in the classifieds in short order.

[quote name='ricksterphil' timestamp='1464388430' post='3059209'] I have a Genz Benz 500 1x15 running at 8ohms 300w. By adding an extra speaker cab it will run at 4ohm and 500w[/quote]Only if the second speaker is 8 ohms. [quote]I want to upgrade the standard speaker with a 600w 4 ohm job[/quote]Going to a higher thermal power rating doesn't mean it's an upgrade. It's far more complicated than that.

[quote name='spongebob' timestamp='1463256277' post='3050032'] Trouble is, car space... [/quote]Get a larger car. Bass players and tiny rides don't mix. Just be thankful you don't play drums.

[quote name='casapete' timestamp='1463270111' post='3050126'] ever noticed that an awful lot of pro players with road crew still favour heavy valve/ big cab rigs? [/quote]Ever seen them haul their own gear?

[quote name='Kex' timestamp='1463212601' post='3049512']Go and try and lift up a professional full range B&W studio monitor, or even a high end home hifi, its massively heavy and there is a reason for that. [/quote]There is, that being that heavy minimally braced or unbraced construction is much less expensive than well braced lightweight construction. If the speaker isn't going to be moved from place to place on a weekly, or even daily, basis then weight isn't an issue. It may not be if you're young and dumb with more muscle mass than grey matter. But as you get older most of us realize that schlepping less weight is its own reward.

[quote name='Merton' timestamp='1463078791' post='3048436'] There's a thread on here elsewhere; the array cabs have a passing resemblance to BFM cabs IMO [/quote]Only passing, as the woofers aren't horn loaded. But at least they got the placement of the midranges correct.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1461490742' post='3034999'] Is anyone actually reading the specs and info on the 410? It[i] looks [/i]exactly like every other 410 (if a little smaller and lighter), but that's where the similarity ends. [/quote]+1. There's a right way and a wrong way to make a 4x10, 6x10 or 8x10. Alex does it the right way. AFAIK at this point he's the only one who does. Personally I'd rather the superior dispersion characteristics of a vertically stacked pair of 2x10. But if the particular form factor of a 4x10 is what you want then it's the only 4x10 worth considering IMO.

[quote name='Musicman20' timestamp='1462281688' post='3041704'] it would be replacing a fairly big rig [/quote]Big, but the drivers used in those Orange cabs are marginal in what matters, which is excursion/displacement. I'd venture that a Barefaced Super Twin would have much more output than your old stack.

[quote name='grandad' timestamp='1461621353' post='3036286'] A 4ohm cab will draw twice the power from the amp as an 8 ohm cab. The loudness will be noticable but not twice as loud. [/quote]Yes, and no. With the same amp settings the 4 ohm cab will be 3dB louder, which is noticeable, but not significant. But at the full power capacity of the cab they'll have the same output. There's really no advantage to a 4 ohm cab unless your amp is rated at less than half what the cab is.