stevel

Yeah, they do have a maximum number of tickets each customer can buy, usually around 10% of the total. But sometimes there are 10-12 guitars drawn on the same day, and it's usually twice a week for most of these operators, so that's still a lot of tickets it's possible to buy. Got to say though, it's still far better odds than winning the lottery, in that a far higher percentage of the ticket cost goes into the prize.

Nope, when they draw an unsold ticket they show onscreen that the ticket was unsold, and then they keep drawing more numbers until they find a ticket that DID get sold. Have you even watched any of these draws, before you start casting aspersions?

Yup, the same suspects win time and time again.... because they buy so many tickets. They're addicted, it's fairly simple. I have also won a lot of good basses on various sites, mainly Guitar Gear Giveaway. The last one I won was last month, an EBMM Stingray (3EQ) in translucent orange. Prior to that I've had another Stingray (2EQ), a 3rd Stingray, a Rickenbacker 4003, Fender: American Jazz, Mexican Jazz, Aerodyne Jazz & a Telecaster, an Ibanez SR300, a couple of Squiers and an Epiphone SG. For a couple of the above list I have collected them rather than having them delivered, so I've personally met the guys that run both Guitar Gear Giveaway and BassBros competitions, they're all thoroughly decent folks. And yes, they do try to sell around twice the instrument's worth in tickets, but they don't always sell all of the tickets before they're drawn - but they're true to their word in that they don't extend the 'competition' (raffle!), even if they're making a loss. They also have overheads to meet as well as paying themselves a decent wage, so I don't think what they're doing is unreasonable. The draws are done live on YouTube/Facebook/whatever, using google's random number generator - they're as open and honest as could be about it. I wouldn't be entering these draws if even thought there was a possibility they weren't on the level.

350 to 400 should do well for general use, but it does depend a bit on what you’re soldering and how thick the solder wire is. If you’re working on pots then crank it up (I use 450 or so) and don’t keep it in contact with the pots any longer than needed to do the job.

What is it you're looking to get done? String change and a tune up, or complete neck replacement type thing?

One of the problems with repairing composites in general is that when the original resin cures, it forms long chain polymers, so there's nothing for a new resin to bond with (at the molecular level). So, all that's needed is to abrasively remove (grind/sandpaper etc) the existing material in the area of the repair - that'll expose something for the new resin to bond with. If you have to re-use the insert you've got then clean that up thoroughly as well, possibly with a fine wet/dry paper - should be as good as the original by the time you're done.

Yihua are one of the better cheapo Chinese manufacturers - I've got their WEP 937D, which comes in at £35 today (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soldering-Station-Welder-Rework-Repairing/dp/B074Z84TDL). I've had mine for about 6 years, soldered loads of stuff, still going strong and never met anything it couldn't do - I'd not hesitate to buy the same one again if mine gave up today. Yihua's stuff are generally clones of the excellent Hakko soldering stations, but at a fraction of the price. There's plenty of other clones of Hakko products, they probably all come from the same Chinese factory.

Definite case for buying a new bass. 😜 Of course, this one isn't worth much in it's current state, so you'd best keep it as a backup...

I'm surprised no-one has yet mentioned the biggest part of the mass of a bass... the body. If you're really committed to the idea of making it as light as possible, seems an obvious place to start. I recently bought a 2nd hand Hofner Shorty Bass for £75 - cheap as chips and weighs 2.3kg. If you can cope with the neck dive, there isn't much that'll be lighter.

Similar to the post above, De-Solv-it sticky stuff remover has removed residues that I thought were impossible. Widely available - try B&Q if you can’t find it.

Or get a used one.... search for ‘Kluson’ tuners. For example: https://reverb.com/au/item/1733855-gibson-kluson-ebo-bass-tuners-60s-chrome

OP - you say the input jack sits very loosely inside the guitar - it's only held on with a thin nut - if this gets too loose it might just be that the output jack is shorting out on the inside, possibly against the control cavity (if it is conductive) which would result in the symptoms you describe. Worth trying just to tighten up the nut. If you're not sure which bit I'm on about, post us a photo of your output jack so we can point it out.

I looked into this some time ago when refinshing my 'oil-finished Warwick'. I think something is lost in translation here, as when they say 'oil-finished' it is actually a beeswax and lemon oil mix that they use (there might be other bits in there too) - but they melt it to apply it (so that it penetrates further into the wood). This might be where the 'oil-finished' description comes from - as in that it was liquid when they applied it. It still doesn't go deep into the wood, as I got the old wax off with a bit of light sanding on mine. Ironically, I then re-applied the same finish Warwick did, in the same way (melt beeswax, add lemon oil, dip a cloth in it, apply to wood, run scalded hand under cold water), and it turned out absolutely beautiful. Of course, you have to occasionally (yearly?) clean and re-apply to keep it looking great. I preferred this finish to an actual oil finish as it's less permanent - if I want to change in the future, I'll be able to, whereas an oil finish is very hard to get rid of.

I had this same dilemma a few months ago. I've got a dozen or so cheap soldering irons in my shed, but still felt the need for something better. After extensive research, I ended up with a WEP 937D+ (https://www.amazon.co.uk/WEP-937D-Soldering-Station/dp/B015IZ3CIS) It's a (good) chinese copy of an amazing soldering iron (the Hakko 937), but at about 1/10th the price. So far, it's been amazing. It heats up in next to no time, and if it's not doing the job quick enough, just turn up the heat. Comes with a bunch of spare soldering tips too. I'd have saved a fortune if I'd got one of these 10 years ago.

I think you might be asking for the impossible here... The size and speed of the fan both contribute to how much air it blows around. You're stuck with a small fan, so the only way to make it shift a lot of air is for it to run at a high speed (and therefore it's noisy!). As you can't make it any bigger, you're a bit stuck. That said, fans do get noisier with age (and then they fail completely), so it might be worth replacing it with a new one - just be sure it blows air the same direction as the old one. So, looking at replacement options, and bearing in mind that it needs at least the airflow of the outgoing fan, EBM-pabst (reputable fan-maker) make 2 fans in this size and voltage: 614F: 24v, 1.1 watts 17.1 cfm (cubic feet per minute) 614F/39: 24v, 1.4 watts 19.4 cfm. The headline figure is the cfm - how much air it moves. Problem is, we don't know that figure for the old fan. However, the cfm should be related to the power consumption of the fan. We don't know how much power your old fan uses either, but we can work it out: Power=VoltsxAmps Power=24x0.12 =2.88w Now that's quite a powerful fan - no wonder it's noisy. It's pretty much twice the power of the 614F/39. The relationship between power and cfm isn't linear though, so I suspect this one will output more like 28--30 cfm. And I think it would be unwise to go with much less... As EBM Freak has already stated, most of the fans that are quiet(ish) but still give a reasonable throughput are 12v ones for computers - if you can find one that shifts enough air, why not fit one of those (with a suitable resistor, of course)

Here's the spec of the original fan: HOWARD 3-15-1301 spec supply voltage: 230 vac blades: 5 body material: metal size: 76 x 76 x 38 mm width: 1.5 in, height: 3 in, length: 3 in So it's not quite 80mm square. I can't find any fans that are 76mm, but 80mm ones are common place - if you have the room to fit an 80mm in there then that's probably the easiest approach. The original fan was around 26 CFM - 80mm fans shouldn't have a problem shifting that much air, so the only other selection criteria really is the quality of the bearings (ie how long it'll last!). Good luck...