Aidan63

sold me a nicely priced excellent condition copperstand for my gid bag, wll packaged and quickly dispatched, top man, thank you

Richard sold me a couple of super priced genuine Schaller straplock sets, super service quickly delivered with FedEx, many thanks

couple of years ago bought a very cheap used Rockwood guitar, it had a great neck, solid maple, but a mdf body that was soft and heavy and easily damaged, didn't hold screws well and the fixtures and fittings were as nasty cheap as they ever could be, I still have the neck and the super thick cast neck plate

bought a strap from them too, top service

Good luck with it all 👍

how did a post on a mains free battery power solution for pedals turn into a post about mains powered supplies isolation and ground loops ? 😲

Just to share this design from Premier Guitar, some may have seen it, I am sure it will have been done before but I couldn't find an example on here with a quick search. The Premier Guitar mag article was the first time I have come across the idea. LINK to article I find using battery power for effects useful, as I am often only using a couple, and I can power my PJ double4 by battery, so saves having to have power supply and extra cables to get tangled up and can be mains free, so I was interested in this design enough to build myself one. I have a couple of Makita 18V power tools for use at work and a couple of batteries so it works for me 😀 Bought the bits on Ebay, £32 all in , plus a bit of wire and solder, with a couple of stomp switches and some pcb stand offs left over for other things I have planned It works well and can power a few pedals as I used a 2A buck module, you could use a higher rated one, but you might need a bigger enclosure, the one I used was only just big enough really. I might paint it at some point

something as a levelling beam (I used an new alloy beam type spirit level, checked against a straight edge) and wet and dry paper (400 and double sided tape) and a file with a safe edge (you can make your own) and some finer grit papers, and maybe some rubbing compound (or 0000 steel wool) is all you need plus a marker pen and a board protector; a fret rocker can be helpful but sometimes it can confuse the issue I found but if there's only spot levelingl of a couple of frets required then it does identify them accurately. I like the rolling the frets (dressing) once levelled with a file method rather than using a concave dressing file; you can also use a piece of wood suitably cut to an angle and paper, that is quite a neat trick see guns and guitars on you tube for a video demonstration of that method

434 centre of 12th fret to centre of P pickup 291mm, compared to 295.5mm for my Fender P bass and the J pickup is roughly in the 70s J position at 374mm

Double4 as home practice amp, it's great, very transparent, takes pedals well, surprisingly powerful, the standby/active/passive switch should be better quality though, they may be now, it was a known weakness I believe

They are probably trying to get it up and running to fit in with the next set of rules that come in on 1st July which are designed to harmonise biz to customer transactions, which will also remove the Euro22 vat free threshold; duty will still be exempt upto Euro150 though, and I guess if Thomann are doing the paperwork and paying the tax then the handling fee from their shipper(s?) of choice will come down/off

a nice double pickup model with a voice like a 335/339/355 or a LPJunior DC, a PRS, or a Yamaha Revstar anything but a Strat

maybe dunlops ? A 4-string bass set will have Gold/Black/Silver/Gold

ebay seller LINKY in states with stock.... they appear like a lot of recent stuff to accept input voltage of 100V-250V without any specific differences, no voltage selection, nor different fusing

Ben sold me an East pre01 for my Jazz, tidy, quick, dispatch and delivery and all good, unit in excellent condition, many thanks

according to Fender its as stated above HIGHWAY ONE™ PRECISION BASS® (2006-2011), ROSEWOOD FINGERBOARD, HONEY BLONDE Serial #: Z8104396

I haven't had a link yet either and checking on Berkleybass and bassvault I can't find it so it must not be up yet, it did say would be posted after editing so I guess that hasn't happened yet

Bought a set of pickups from Julian, well priced and packed and quickly delivered, many thanks

the recent Berkley fretless bass seminar was interesting, just about all the famous fretless guys who've been playing fretless for years (ie 3 or 4 decades) mostly use rounds and don't have significant wear problems with untreated wood boards and have maybe had a board levelled a couple of times in that time, unless your whole sound is very percussive or you slide an inordinate amount it's probably not a problem and not all rounds are rough especially now the choice is massive, but again lots of the guys used roto66s - it was almost the last question on the webinar which is available online Tony Franklin pushed it as it was the question being most asked in the chat

normally I think the EA pickup is the one with long white wire and the DG has the long black and the logos are on the bottom side of each pickup on the bridge side, logo on J pickup should be the same and wires on the bottom of the coil; I may be wrong though - I do find it a little odd that the two halves aren't clearly marked on P pickups

I picked up a 2017 434 a few weeks back; I hadn't posted up as I am a bit underwhelmed tbh, the barely finished neck doesn't feel that nice and the frets have a bit of sprout or were badly finished especially on the lower edge, and it has clearly not been played much; all the Squiers I have had have generally been better finished. it'll make a decent modding platform perhaps, we'll see mind I'm not buying 1024x pickups at that price 😲

is one of the P pickups fitted the wrong way around ? Just going by the logos on the covers, or was it made the wrong polarity hence you fitted it thus..

or do a Crimson and BURN it 😈