Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

fingerz

Member
  • Posts

    477
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by fingerz

  1. It sounds like you just need to slacken off the truss rod a touch, to compensate for the lack in tension dropping every string down a tone, has caused. I bet if you slacken that off a bit you will be able to have your old action back and the bass playing perfectly.
  2. I've played a jazz bass almost solely for years. Any single coils wired in parallel will have a slight 'drop' well turned up full, but for me it's more of a 'difference' in tone than a notable drop in volume, especially when compared to the bridge pickup. If it's really tiny then I'd say it's the nature of the bass but if it's really perceivable then I'd say it's something that isn't quite right, especially as it came from the factory doing it. Do you have single coils or their noiseless pickups? Maybe one of them has an issue. Installing a blend pot might make the overall output slightly quieter but again wouldn't present the issue you describe still happening. Being as you've changed all of those pots then the only thing it can still be is the pickups or an earth issue.
  3. A couple of vanishing enquiries, I'm keen to shift these so I'm encouraging any offers here before I try ebay or elsewhere. Much rather sell to the bass chat community. Thanks!
  4. Hmmmm I’m really not sure off the top of my head. And Fender V’s vary between models if I remember correctly. Pretty sure you’ll be 18mm spacing, but if you want to check that, (measure your string centres at the bridge), and measure your pickups (length, width, and location of ‘ears’) then I’d be happy to check that out. obviously things can be adapted or made to fit, I had ‘The Gallery’ move the ears on some pickups I had years ago to fit a bass, but it all gets very involved and expensive. DM me those details if you want to explore whether or not your bass will accept the barts. cheers
  5. Apologies, forgot to include/confirm that these are a 5 string set of pickups. Open to close/reasonable offers. Thanks, Jo
  6. You have some exquisite instruments, best of luck with the sale
  7. I have a Hiscox case this could be sold with, currently case-less, we can work something out if the buyer needed. A shame things are slow, but understandably so. It's now listed on eBay too. Happy New Year and thanks for looking
  8. Hey, Quick update - feel free to make me an offer, I've had a deal fall through and I would like it to go to a bass chatter. Thanks and Happy New Year 😊
  9. Thank you sir : )
  10. Had a message about Nut width and realised I'd left that out! Apols. Nut width: 46.5mm String spacing at bridge: 19mm I would accept a trade plus cash if it's something I feel I can move on quickly.
  11. Luggage scales are reading 8.6 lbs Thanks for looking!
  12. Currently strung and set up with with Hi Beams 45-125
  13. I'm regrettably putting my beautiful VJ5 up for sale. These have a great reputation for build quality and playability, and this one is no exception. I'm a very discerning player especially with 5 strings, this one is even all over, possibly the fastest neck you'll play and super low action. When I acquired it it needed some fretwork sorting on the treble side, the string was choking slightly throughout the first 4 frets, I've just had the fretwork levelled re crowned, I also gather it had a new pot and service to the electronics before I got my hands on it. It's simply been played a lot (rightly so), and has had all the wear and tear put right and ready for years of more low end enjoyment! The only reason I'm selling is because I'm going through 5 strings at the moment, and have found something more in-line with where my ears are at right now, I had no intention of selling this but have just done a deal so this needs to go, ideally to a good home as it deserves to be played. I've had lots of great basses and this is one of them. Nordstrand pups and pre swapped out for Aguilar sometime in its history. It sounds great in the mix. A great show/noisy environment bass as it's totally silent in any setting, it retains that jazz bass growl and fundamental in context, but has an almost dare I say, Ken Smith, quality about the tone too, in the top end. I'm away from home until Thursday, I'll upload more pictures then, and will get my digital luggage scales out too. Specs: Body: Ash Neck: Maple Fingerboard: Maple Scale length: 34.5" Weight: TBC - it's very light, high 8/low 9's lbs Pickups: Agular Super Double Preamp: Aguilar OBP-3 18V Controls: Vol. Pan. Bass. Mid. Treble. Active/Passive switch. Mid pot push/pull mid freq select. Knobs: Turned maple Condition wise it's in great condition. Played but looked after! A couple of marks in the lacquer in the usual places, there's a piece of lacquer that is loose near the top strap button, easy enough to fix if you wanted to, but really not noticeable in practice. I'll add photos when I get back to it. A great bass at a great price, AFAIK Carey doesn't build basses anymore, at least it's not something he pushes, and this is a good a bass as you could ask for. I always liked the subtle and classy looks of this one too. Any questions at all please ask. NO TRADES please, I need the sale as already swapped this out for something I want to try. Thanks
  14. Hi, You wouldn't happen to know the fingerboard radius of this bass would you? Nothing on the OW site that I can find, and normally they favour a very flat feeling fingerboard. Gorgeous looking bass. Thanks in advance.
  15. A neck that's too straight or back bowed can present itself anywhere on the fingerboard depending on a few factors in construction etc. It happening on the first few frets is usually a sign that the instrument is actually well set up (apart from the truss rod tension). So I'm hopeful things will come back into check with a bit less tension for you. A good way to check this is to fret the first fret with your left hand, and fret the 15th (or around there) fret with the little finger on your right hand. You're effectively creating a straight edge across the frets then. You can tap the string around the 10-12 frets and notice if the string is tight against the frets, or if there's a little gap there. The gap tells you that the neck has relief (is curved/concaved). If it's tight flat then the neck is too straight. I personally run my necks really almost straight, as do lots of guitarists I know. Then get the bridge saddles adjusted accordingly. This gives you nice tension and low action. But it's all completely personal, as long as your not getting too much choking it's totally up to you. Marcus Millers sound, you can hear the strings 'rasping' on the frets for example. The nut is crucial for intonation, fretting hand string height, resonance transfer to the neck, and obviously open strings. Any buzzes once you are fretting with your left hand, are very unlikely to be nut related, sonically. Hope that's helpful
  16. Clarity and warmth are my goals. I'm not looking for a honky sound these days. I would happily own an Ampeg rig if I could carry it. It sounds like you got there with that cab. They are beautifully made things.
  17. Hey Andy, Thanks for that. It's helpful to hear how other people find it, mainly as in a shop it's so hard to predict how that sound transfers into a band, and how it behaves at higher volume in that context too. Your one is the vertical one, i believe it's called an MNT? The one I tried was the diagonal configuration model, which has different drivers too. So I wonder how different they sound. Can I ask - is your EQ engaged on the Ashdown? DO you have the 'flat' setting ON? I used to own an old ABM 300 evo head, so I have a bit of context with them hence asking. I'm not sure how your signature model compares but I'm sure it's still got that ashdown flavour. Huge sounding amps. Thanks again man
  18. As I say, if it's happening when you're fretting the neck, I wouldn't expect your nut to be a factor in this problem, in this instance. Good luck with the truss rod, I'm hopeful that will make a big difference. Let us know.
  19. You really should it's probably a big/sole reason for your problem. It's what it's there for. Get the correct and well fitting tool for whatever the head of the truss rod is, and back it off a touch. It may take a little time to settle, but usually it's instant. It's that time of year when necks do some moving anyway. If it's reassuring, consider how a luthier could possibly do it any differently to you...?! Just go very slowly. It's what it's there for. You want to back it off, and I would start with just a fraction of a turn A) For your confidence and B) Why not. Slow and steady wins the race!
  20. PS. If you have a buzz/choke when you are fretting the instrument, it's very very unlikely that the nut is the problem
  21. Have you tried letting off some tension in your truss rod?
  22. I’m changing cabs out of necessity, one of my drivers needed a repair, and I’m not sure how long it will last, so I’m checking out some of the new kids on the block. It’s a really capable cab, and I’ve used it for about 14 years I reckon. It does start to compress when you really push it. Anyway, the character of the Vanderkley 212 when pushed and in a band context was the reason for my post. Sorry to introduce a curve ball there.
×
×
  • Create New...