fingerz

Hey guys, To any owners/players of the 212LNT cab.... Sorry to revive an old topic. I'm looking at cabs, and am after a single cab solution as I've had for years with my Epi 310. I'd like something a touch louder, and very clear. I checked out a 212LNT at the Gallery last week. Totally stunning cabinet and I'd happily own a Vanderkley based on his rep and ethos. My impression of the sound was that the low mids and lows were really prominent, when I popped or dug in, i wasn't hearing the high mids I'm used to with my 10" speakers. Lots about the vanderkley was better, and I know my ears and settings would change, perhaps the 12" just has a different character to the one I'm used to. My question is this: Any owners of that cab find that once you start driving it at gig volume it really evens out? Or is it the sort of cab that has that low/low mid drive with the sparkle from the tweeter on top regardless? I like it to sound 'funky', and using the very clean and dependable Thunderfunk 550 head. Thanks.

Found it! Looks to be with a player and great one at that so doubtful it's sat doing nothing but thank you for your help I can't really believe we tracked it down! Cheers

Really really kind of you thank you so much - having a look now!

I'm a complete geek too, it's a compliment : ) Yes that page takes me back, I think your one was for sale through them recently? Looks really nice and glad you've found an instrument that really works for you. I played the blue one and at least one other I can't remember now, but it's horses for courses, that one felt like one that got away plus I'm always extra scared of buying new as I can never be sure until I've done at least one gig and some recording with a bass!

Thank you, really helpful and yes amazing geekery! I remember he had a bunch at the time.

A slightly unusual post... I wonder if anyone knows of, or owns this Nordy VJ5? I played it at bass direct around 10 years ago, I wasn't in a position to buy it but really clicked with it - on the off chance it might be an instrument that somebody knows of or owns and might consider parting with, I thought I'd stick a post on here as it's a small community so you never know. FYI I'm not interested in any other Nordy's though appreciate they're all very similar. Thanks in advance bass community!

I'm very up for some zoom tuition if anybody would like to develop their playing from home

I'm wondering why your bridge pup was quieter? Maybe there were mismatched capacitors or somehow more resistance on the bridge controls? Or was the the tone just backed off? Either way it obviously wasn't the pickups so good job you didn't go that route. I know Jaco would've agreed with you - he did the same conversion to his Jazz! I've always used VVT on a Jazz, VT VT can have lower output and just more room for error in real world situation though I bet you can also get some cool sounds with it.

Hello mate, If you have output from the bass, and I assume the treble control is active/uses the preamp then the pre amp is not dead. It's more likely a contact or pot problem, and probably not complicated just requires some good knowledge to get in there and do it. I've always used the Gallery in Camden, Martin there is the electronics guy and he's really great. I've had issues with super rare stuff that he has figured out and sorted. I've never used your particular preamp so I can't comment further.

The adhesive strip is narrower than the copper strip, so there's plenty of space for overlap and solid connection. I found it really easy to make a very clean job of it.

Not sure about internal grounding year, I've never been a big anorak for vintage periods, probably an easy google though, and then a minefield at that!! Cheers all

'Slug tape' is self adhesive copper tape and available at most hardware outlets. Paint is expensive but can do a great job too. Unless i was building it from scratch (building up layers on a clean surface from the start) , I would get some copper tape in there to see if it's doing what you need. Quick, cheap and effective.

This sounds like a very reasonable and likely answer. I love the question and looking forward to many more trivial questions over the coming months. I'm wondering why the Japanese reissues copy the less symmetrical look? You'd expect them to go with the uniform/perpendicular style.. Perhaps (inner pedant speaking), having it at an angle gives slightly more surface area at the contact points which achieves a microscopically better result?

As mentioned above, apart from one discrepancy, it is my understanding also that when the tone pot is fully open you aren't creating any resistance in the capacitor (or very little), so removing it will have little significance on your tone in this specific case. Obviously changing the cap may effect very slightly what's going on (assuming an open tone pot still is having some effect), but not to any great extent. I would suggest really either going for a pickup with more of a scooped sound, or more high end in itself, or doing something like dropping an East J Tone into your bass. This leaves your signal pretty much untouched, with a tone pot (plus capacitors you can swap out/match), but with the active circuit giving you bass/treble control. These can be boost only, or boost/cut. But would probably be the best way to guarantee more flexibility where you want it whilst working from what you already have. Changing pickups (similar cost) still leaves you open to the possibility of not actually liking what they sound like in your bass.