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fingerz

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Posts posted by fingerz

  1. On 27/03/2021 at 12:07, Thomas P said:

    HI

    No it's not a Pope pre-amp, it's a Seymour Duncan as I wrote in the add.
    https://www.seymourduncan.com/single-product/active-bass-preamp-3-band-for-passive

    But that shouldn't set us apart, as I can remove it, and install a Pope if you want, and you can cover the diff. in price.
    alternatively, I can remove it, wire the bass as passive with volume/volume/tone, alternatively Volume/tone plus a 4 way switch (Neck PU/Parallel/Bridge PU/Series.
    I've had that on Jazz basses before which to me makes them extremely universal, as you have 4 basic sounds to tweak. It can even be added together with a pre-amp.

    Size, don't have any standard jazz to compare with, but I'd say it's sligthly smaller just by looking at it.

    Fretboard radius, just checked with the radius gauges I use for setting up instruments, and it's somewhere around 16".

    Do I actually need to sell this bass to buy a new? No, I'm 54, worked my a.. off for way too many years, even been away from home/wife/kids for too long it's a gift they are still around.
    I'm just humble to the fact, that I don't play professional, I like trying various instruments, and as written above, practice makes you a good player, not 10 high-end basses lined up just to show off :0)

    Above with the best intentions!

    Thomas
     

     

     

     

    D5E1AD97-571D-4A20-B6AC-63591CBE566A.jpeg

    Thanks for the info and really kind offer to taylor the preamp. Sorry for the confusion - I think it was a later comment about the Pope preamp that threw me off. I'm sure it sounds amazing as it is! I'm looking for a more curved fingerboard radius so although I'm really grateful for your time and detailed info, it's not quite what I'm looking for.

     

    Amazing bass best of luck with the sale, can't imagine it will hang around very long. Thanks again, Jo

  2. Hi Thomas,

     

     

    Interesting bass. Is that definitely a Pope Preamp? And what's the body size like? I get on with larger bodies particularly with 19mm 5 strings, it's hard to tell, would you say it's standard J size, or slightly undersized like a sadowsky (Non UV) etc? I see you don't want to trade, I'd have to move on one of my basses for this but I'm curious to know more and looking for a 5 string that feels like home to me.

     

    Also, do you know fingerboard radius and nut width?

     

     

    Thanks, 

     

    Jo

  3. I'm wondering why your bridge pup was quieter? Maybe there were mismatched capacitors or somehow more resistance on the bridge controls? Or was the the tone just backed off? Either way it obviously wasn't the pickups so good job you didn't go that route. I know Jaco would've agreed with you - he did the same conversion to his Jazz! I've always used VVT on a Jazz, VT VT can have lower output and just more room for error in real world situation though I bet you can also get some cool sounds with it.

  4. Hello mate,

     

    If you have output from the bass, and I assume the treble control is active/uses the preamp then the pre amp is not dead. It's more likely a contact or pot problem, and probably not complicated just requires some good knowledge to get in there and do it. I've always used the Gallery in Camden, Martin there is the electronics guy and he's really great. I've had issues with super rare stuff that he has figured out and sorted. I've never used your particular preamp so I can't comment further.

    • Like 1
  5. On 20/03/2020 at 13:59, Geek99 said:

    Slug tape doesn’t have conductive adhesive so you need to fold an edge over to touch the next piece or solder the pieces together. That’s the price difference between slug tape and copper shielding foil tape 

    The adhesive strip is narrower than the copper strip, so there's plenty of space for overlap and solid connection. I found it really easy to make a very clean job of it. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  6. On 17/03/2020 at 12:08, hooky_lowdown said:

    I'm guessing as these were made by hand back then, the difference is due to different people doing the strip - nothing more than that.

    This sounds like a very reasonable and likely answer. I love the question and looking forward to many more trivial questions over the coming months.

     

    I'm wondering why the Japanese reissues copy the less symmetrical look? You'd expect them to go with the uniform/perpendicular style.. Perhaps (inner pedant speaking), having it at an angle gives slightly more surface area at the contact points which achieves a microscopically better result? 

  7. As mentioned above, apart from one discrepancy, it is my understanding also that when the tone pot is fully open you aren't creating any resistance in the capacitor (or very little), so removing it will have little significance on your tone in this specific case. Obviously changing the cap may effect very slightly what's going on (assuming an open tone pot still is having some effect), but not to any great extent.

    I would suggest really either going for a pickup with more of a scooped sound, or more high end in itself, or doing something like dropping an East J Tone into your bass. This leaves your signal pretty much untouched, with a tone pot (plus capacitors you can swap out/match), but with the active circuit giving you bass/treble control. These can be boost only, or boost/cut. But would probably be the best way to guarantee more flexibility where you want it whilst working from what you already have. Changing pickups (similar cost) still leaves you open to the possibility of not actually liking what they sound like in your bass.

  8. A change in circumstances forces me to put this really lovely jazz bass up for sale.

    I came across this beautiful 62 CIJ reissue earlier this year, comparing it to a couple of vintage basses I had to get it in my collection as it sounded and felt like the best of the bunch. Cops my idea of the 60's tone, it's a really nice instrument. Comes in the rare Ocean Turquoise finish, looks amazing, and could add value in years to come being it's already 25 years old.

     I lowered the action and realised it needed a fret stone and re-crown, which I have had done by 'The Gallery'. I tend to find this is common on basses of this age when you get the action down, it exposes it. So that's been done. I just need to free up some cash right now, so thought I'd see if there were any takers.

     Serial number dates it around '93. Hardware is oxidising nicely and there a few marks due it's age and the fact it's been played. Period correct bridge and external earthing in line with the year this bass is based on. It looks like it's had a repair on the bass side top of the finger board around the third fret. Zero issues here, but I'd like you to know about it. Pictured. This would make a great bass for someone who just wants to play and enjoy the instrument whilst retaining the look and tone of something much much older. Honestly, it's a lovely bass. 

     

    Weight: 9.2 lbs

    Straplocks fitted but can be sold without.

     

    I have NO CASE for this bass, it didn't come with one and don't have any spares, apologies.

     

    If you have any questions at all please PM, or feel free to call on 07719154668. I make a mean cup of tea, you're welcome to come and give it a go if you're interested in the bass. 

     

    Thanks

     

     

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    • Like 7
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