Bassassin

Maybe he prised off the Stagg badge (or sanded off the Wesley logo - they were the same bass) and applied the amusing composite logo. A "similar" Stagg sold on BC last year: £80. Compare & contrast... [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/277806-sold-stagg-mb350-jaguar-style-bass/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/277806-sold-stagg-mb350-jaguar-style-bass/[/url] These actually pre-dated the "real" Fender Jag basses by a few years - I was a bit tempted by a maple-board Stagguar for the basis of a project.

Thought these weren't allowed on here. And that ain't no '73.

Damn. My pics have been BotoPhucketed!

Great news - hopefully he'll be back to full strength & out on the road again soon.

There's something about black/black/maple that just works. One of the best-looking basses Mr Konig's offered IMO, if it had checked binding I would have had it myself.

It's even got a name - it's a 0010/F! Catchy! [url="http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/LanterneRouge/media/Catalogues/columbusbasses_zpscpar9kzo.jpg.html"][/url]

Looks in great condition for a 40+ year old, £30 bass! These hardly ever turn up with the ashtrays still on. Great score.

Very common & pretty decent mid-70s J copy, probably made by Chushin Gakki. Bodies can either be ply or veneered butcher-block, as many of the MIJ copies were. Electronics might just need a good clean & any dry joints re-soldering, but tbh pickups were never great on these so if it plays nicely it might be worth dropping a halfway decent set in if the originals are dud. They should fit OK despite the round-end originals. £30 is a little bit of a steal - these can go for £150+ on Ebay.

If you do want to spend a few quid and can, as you say, play guitar passably, think about one of these: [url="https://www.fishman.com/products/series/tripleplay/"]Fishman Triple Play[/url] I impulse-bought one a couple of months ago - not used it properly yet (still getting to grips with new recording gear) but it's very, very good.

A long time ago I went out with a classical basoonist/mezzo soprano. She was technically superb at both disciplines - but the most unintuitive musician I ever met. I was highly amused when she was surprised that I practised a lot - she thought "pop musicians" didn't bother with that sort of thing! And from the other perspective, a couple of years back I was asked to play a few gigs with a folk/traditional band, standing in for a member who was away for a while. I said sure, let me know the set list, keys, arrangements, give me a week to learn them & then let's get a rehearsal or two. They said no, just expected me to turn up at the gig & busk 20 or 30 songs I didn't know & might never have heard before! Because that's the Folkie way, apparently. Unsurprisingly I declined. Different worlds.

Sales patter's sales patter - but I'm sure most people on BC appreciate that "forgotten" and "unwanted" basses & guitars are typically the ones that are, well, a bit rubbish. And I doubt what he's selling is actually recycled throwaway junk - at least I hope not. I may be being a [i]bit[/i] cynical but I went through all the pics on the FB page - when I encountered the relic'd Strat fitted with Teisco gold foil pickups, I cringed so hard I nearly blacked out. In its way it's a bit like that deranged Ebay experiment artist who causes so much combined amusement & dismay in the Weird & Wonderful thread.

They do give the impression of being created from random Ebay parts & a belt sander.

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1499521825' post='3332005'] Another company making Fender clones...why?? [/quote] Funny - as soon as I saw the name I genuinely thought - they'll be relic'd Fender copies. And they're relic'd Fender copies.

Thanks for the info Dudgeman - would never have thought of using ink as a stain.

The saddle's a simple metal bar - it should be possible to improvise something. I don't think anything current uses the old 2-point system so your choice for a new replacement is limited to a rather expensive Hipshot: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hipshot-Supertone-4-string-Bass-Bridge-Gibson-2-point-Chrome-5G410C-/111705155990"]http://www.ebay.co.u...C-/111705155990[/url] And that's assuming the post spacing is the same. Considering it's an arch-top, your other alternatives would be a 3-point or some sort of tune-o-matic & stop bar/tailpiece arrangement. Moving swiftly on, wouldn't mind a bit of insight into exactly how you went about getting that finish - I have an old Ibanez Blazer half-stripped which would look amazing done like that.

Lovely work refinishing it, but the saddle is missing from the bridge, as BOTB has said - that's why it doesn't intonate. It's a Fujigen build (the factory that made Antoria, Ibanez & numerous other brands) so it should be a good quality instrument & should play well when set up properly. The bridge (when complete) is an accurate copy of the bridges Gibson used on early EB-0 basses, you can see the missing bit: I know a few things about old MIJ copies - your bass is an Antoria 2350B, from the tuner style I'd guess it's from '71 or '72. The pickups should have codes inkstamped on the back which give an accurate date, which should give the age of the bass. FYI there was no connection between Ibanez & Antoria other than the factory the instruments were sourced from - Antoria is a UK brand which at the time was owned by an importer/distributor in Leeds, and Ibanez is a brand name owned by a Japanese trading company called Hoshino Gakki. If you do a bit of reading from informed sources, you'll find there wasn't actually a lawsuit, as Hoshino had changed the headstock shape a year prior to the legal threat that Norlin Gibson made in 1977. You can probably guess that I'm not too keen on the logo - but aside from that you've done a stunning job - and once you get a functioning bridge on it, don't be surprised if it turns out to be a player, too.

[quote name='jacko' timestamp='1499183010' post='3329779'] I've had a Schaller roller bridge on my precision since the early 80's. Had the same 3 screw holes as the original bridge. [/quote] Never seen one like that. I have several basses with 3Ds, this is the one on my J: [url="http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/LanterneRouge/media/CSL%20Jazz/bridge_zpsqvoksi3h.jpg.html"][/url] The arrows indicate two pilot holes which match the original drillings, to ensure accurate alignment when replacing Fender type bridges - you're meant to use these to mark & drill the proper holes! I find myself wondering if people who have issues with these bridges bending are attaching them just with the pilot holes...

41 posts & no Chicken Man by Alan Hawkshaw? For shame! Grange Hill ftw. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SlvZF6k5bE[/media]

I'm a big Schaller 3D fan - versatile, compact & beautifully engineered. Adjusting string spacing is incredibly straightforward. Downside is that you need to drill new holes for it on a Fender-type bass.

Done a few scratchplates, plus a few other bits & pieces, with results I'm entirely happy with. Which is a rarity, when you're me. [url="https://postimg.org/image/y95mdkq7f/"][/url] [url="https://postimg.org/image/vaffkcdx7/"][/url] [url="https://postimg.org/image/eiosqjztn/"][/url] I have a jigsaw & a Dremel-type tool but not found these ideal for cutting the material accurately. The rather long-winded method I've devised is this: Find a piece of wood slightly larger than the dimensions of the plate you want to make. Place your blank on the wood, then using the original as a template, accurately mark the screwhole positions. Carefully drill the screwholes, and then screw both the original & blank together, onto the wood. You now have a fixed template that won't move. Next, trace around the template, including any pickup & control holes, then remove the original. Screw the blank back onto the board & then (this is the boring, fiddly bit) using a small-ish drill (3mm or thereabouts), go around the edges of the design, as close to the tracing as you can get without going over the line, and spacing the holes as tightly as you can. Several years later you'll have a thing like a giant scratchplate-sized plastic postage stamp - and you'll be able to remove the excess just by breaking it off, leaving you with a rough-edged scratchplate. Fortunately the material is really easy to file and shape so smoothing it back to the line is reasonably painless - I have a couple of different sizes of half-round file that seem to work well on the curves. The only thing I can't do is a proper 45 degree bevel, but it's possible to round over the top edge a bit to make the plys more obvious. The good thing about doing a Faker or Rick scratchplate is that you have the opportunity to try & do something a bit more interesting than the ugly afterthought that Rickenbacker decided was good enough...

Hatchet job.