BlueMoon

A beauty……….just the right amount of ageing. Well done!

Fantastic example of skill, dedication and artistry. Proficiat!!

Nice….thank you! And a pic of the man with a Freedom Rhino bass, I do believe.

Depends on the sealant layer that was first used on the bare wood. Since it's a relic surface maybe look at it as added mojo and just leave it and enjoy it. If you feel like "repairing" it, I'd be tempted to carefully sand off/sand back the surrounding amber coloured area to the outline of solid colour and then blend in the area with a light amber-tinted matt or satin coating. Trying to just "repair" the bare wood area could be tricky getting the colour match acceptable.

Might well happen. When Mike Pedulla closed his shop rather than selling the business, the second-hand asking prices of the classic Pedulla basses did increase significantly. No sign of any levelling on those asking prices.......so hang on to that Status bass(es).

^^ This. The problem with many generic polishes is that if there are any silicones in them it is extremely difficult to get rid of them if used unknowingly or in error. They persist for a long time on most any surface (including fingers!!) and often require quite aggressive solvents (e.g. acetone) and repeated treatments to effectively remove. Obviously this defeats the original objective, especially with nitro coatings. A careful screening of the polish contents label should show up the main silicone components, if present. Basically anything ending in "...cone" (like dimethicone) or "siloxane" (e.g. polydimethylsiloxane - PDMS) fall in the broad silicone family.

Glow-in-the-dark side markers fitted as standard to the neck. I favour Luminlay brand, but can be tricky to source in Europe. Some Japanese instruments fit this as standard.

Loving the banter, guys! Nowhere is quite like Basschat

That’s a good thought. Would mild acid also act in a similar way? Cola drinks, brown sauce, for example.

I guess that, without testing, you’ll never know. It could get ugly pretty quickly if the top coating is very thin though. I’d recommend starting with a light touch (e.g. kitchen sponge scourer) on a sacrificial example. Good luck.

All the very best in what comes next for you! It sounds like you have made the right decision, as losing sleep over it is never good. Any decision like that is a relief once made and you are staying around until the band can find a replacement. I wish some of the bands that I’ve played in over the years had musicians with an attitude like yours.

Just to better understand……can you post a picture of your bass and, in particular, a pic of the control cavity or control plate? Seeing this may help our collective understanding and get you closer to a possible solution.

I don’t have a wiring diagram, but here are some pics of control cavity wiring with the Blackbird module in my JJ4’s. I hope this helps.

If you use any commercially-sourced product it is worth studying the ingredients/contents list on the container first. My advice would be to stay away from anything containing silicones, since they don’t always play nice with other cleansing products or in areas where painting/re-finishing might take place. Polydimthylsiloxanes (dimethicone) and aminosiloxanes (types of silicones) are pretty common in auto and household polish formulations.

Frankly, he could use any strings and still sound amazing. Top drawer artist.

Basswood or boat anchor?

A good number of helpful suggestions. A totally invisible repair will be difficult to achieve, however, as the worn patch will remain darker than the surrounding areas. Thankfully it looks a very small blemish. Good luck!

If you have ever had a car paint touch-up stick set - base coat and clear coat, then the clear coat is essentially the same as the poly used on the neck.

This ^^^^^^^^

The fact that you can continue playing even if the battery dies during a show is a great feature of that G&L set up.

The wife! She tolerates more basses coming in than going out, and that is a keeper in my book.

Great bass. Well done!