itu

A floor is one big unit. The comparison between a tiny neck and an acre of maple is not fair. A carpenter told me that any wooden floor moves, no matter if it's oiled, painted, or lacquered. It should float, or it can be attached from one side, but it moves a lot. I've had necks that need a tiny bit of adjusting in spring and autumn, like the original Affirma fretted 4, but not the fretless 5. My basses with carbon necks are stable round the year.

That riser would benefit from a specific place where you put the end pin every time (tuned resonance, like sound post of the bass). @Jean-Luc Pickguard had a good point: if you could make an extra plate where you stand, that riser would be tuned every time the same way. Otherwise your feet would always tune the riser in a different way. Measurements, I think that a double bass itself will give you a hint of the size. Should it be just a plate or a tuned box? Thin, braced vibrating plate (the end pin will go through a very thin top without any bracing)? What should be the contact to the floor? Whole bottom surface, feet... Theory, see: Chladni patterns.

@ around 3.16 I got this screen shot. No idea of the brand.

Can try to whisper it to us?

MY EXACT WORDS TODAY. YOU ARE A CLAIRVOYANT!

If the pickup doesn't work with the amp, consider a high impedance buffer between them. Then you will get good lows. Sometimes a buffered effect may work well, too.

Which bass? Is its output hi- or lo-Z? Where in the chain you want that effect? I have fuzz/dist pedal first after the bass. I have two (well, three) pedalboards, one for both bass output types. I love a X-over, because the lowest bass stays intact and powerful.

Any link available?

Old tce SCF: it's also a flanger, and nowadays I like the flanger sound, not the basic chorus anymore. Maybe those new tce choruses have the same options via TonePrint.

One thing to consider is the amount of full power needed. Because of the signal bassists create, there's very seldom any situation where 100 % is needed for more than milliseconds. OK, if your amp is a small 30W unit, it will be fried in a loud band. Anything beyond 300 W is most likely enough (especially with a sensitive cab).

Most likely 4 strings. The first ones were from Kramer/Spector era, if I remember correctly. There are old brochures online if anyone wants to search.

Most likely everybody knows that NS means Ned Steinberger, the designer of the bass. The first basses were available with two pickup brands (the other was DiMarzio) and with 1 or 2 pickups. NS-1 was the first unit (1 meant 1 pickup).

These cats are alive. fretless: Bunny Brunel and Gary Willis 4-string frets: Jeff Berlin and Jonas Hellborg 5-string frets: Tom Kennedy and Jimmy Haslip 6-string frets: John Patitucci DB: Edgar Meyer and Steve Rodby and Marc Johnson (Where are all excellent European players, my list is too Americain.) Stewart Copeland should be here, because I would like to learn more about drummers' rhythmic approach to songs.

Crimping was the solution for first moon flights, too. You can solder Al, but it is complicated because of oxidization et al. Still crimping is considered superior to other solutions.