itu

If an extra bright sound is in order, install a DPDT switch (can be rotary, too) that overrides the tone (and volumes). It can take the place of that fourth pot.

As long as they are magnetic, you may say that the pickup itself is passive. But there are active pickups, like Lightwave.

As I have an MG, two Vigiers, and two Status necks, I would say that every one works well. Steinberger had so strange neck profile (close to a double bass), that I never bought one. I did try two Zon Legacy Elites, too, but the MG won the first prize at that time (1995). I was about to buy a Vigier Passion II 5-string, but around a fortnight before I had gathered the money, that Vigier had gone. And a five string was a must at that time. Around 1990 - 1995 while studying bass I had a chance to play lots of fine instruments, like Pensa-Suhr, MVPedulla, Tobias Signature 5, MG BassStar fretless 4, Sadowsky, Spectors, JayDee, Alembic, two Ken Smiths, Status, four Vigiers, four Wals... oh dear, those were the days. And Bond had that strange graphite guitar. Congrats, you will get a tool that sounds kool.

So is stainless steel. I have soldered both materials with success. I do have some professional experience because of my previous work. I do prefer Cu to Al. Cu is easier - and better looking material.

If you have your own workshop, things show up in different light. Then you are able to cut the costs. Usually the components and tools tend to cost some more, than the Joe Average thought before starting the project.

No, I meant that covering the conductive surface with a non-conductive material prevents issues with components touching the ground.

Put oil to the soldering surfaces and you can solder Al. Check videos from youtube. If there are issues with grounding, it can be easily covered with a tape or any non-conductive material like thin cardboard.

@obbmas far as I have learned from here, produces excellent hand made pro stuff. Probably equals or surpasses my suggestions.

BYO is the most expensive way. Hands down. £100 is next to nothing: check some component prices and add them together. You will be amazed. It is like building a car from spare parts. @pedwrote a nice article:

Try these: https://m.thomann.de/gb/guitar_cables.html?keyFeature_11507=3%2C00+m|6%2C00+m&keyFeature_47036=Jack&keyFeature_52381=Jack&manufacturers=Cordial|Sommer+Cable With these you can not go totally wrong. If the manufacturer is something like "Fender", or "Harley Benton" your cable will be the weakest link of your sound.

The DC connector from that unit has broken from the PCBA. Open the unit, check the solderings and fix, if needed. At least you can opt one very common issue out. Put the cable to the connector when the unit is open. Push, turn and pull a bit to see if the solderings have failed. Modern factories use tiny amounts of tin and bigger parts are prone to brake.

If you need to build your board smallest possible, the cable/effects changes are a chore. How to override a non-functional pedal? The carrying bag may limit the board dimensions or changes: length, width, height, weight... If you have only certain cable lengths, try to think, where to put the slack. Velcros/ty-raps are your friend. I build my (slightly Holeyboard type) boards with ty-raps. They keep the effects in place better but all changes are slower and slightly harder to do. Placement seems to be limited, but it is not. And come on, millimeter movements are not reasonable. I try to think the dangers while playing: liquids (put some feets under the board), kicking and stepping the board accidentally (connections like DC and signal should not brake), dropping the unit while moving stuff from car to the stage (attachment of the effects and cables). Some things to consider, like the usage (can I put some pedal behind another and still push it on), and settings (paint marker, tapes, Stompshield, 3D printed covers). Colors or labels of the cables may help to find connections. The board should have contact information - just in case. I tend to write down the serials as I buy pedals - just in case.

As I think I wrote earlier, try different gauges before tossing the idea of a tight B. I tried several gauges before finding the functional string. Now I am very happy with the sound and feel.

This raised an instant Satriani feeling. Some Sorayama's robot could play that, too. https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/JS1CR--ibanez-joe-satriani-signature-js1cr-chrome-boy

The picture definitely is poor as I took it with my phone in low light after the gig this evening. But there it stands. The effects board is for my fretless although this time I used it for my fretted bass. Soundwise it was a bit strange combination. Tomorrow I will use my fretted bass effects board. IE Divaricator: hi band to mooer Pitch box + Spruce effects OGF. Then all to Daring Audio Phat beam + COG T-16. IE FMeron was an add-on tonight. Glockenklang Soul - alusonic 2 x 12". As the house was full of nurses (only three men excluding the 9 men of our band), there were only fast or very fast songs this time. Let's see what it is gonna be tomorrow.

Any music is good music. Remember, that for some time you are the one that makes the song choices. My sons are already so big, that father's music is like I am, outdated. By the way, this was my road to happiness, when boys did not sleep: https://www.amazon.com/Tone-Fitness-Stability-Exercise-Equipment/dp/B07P5VYNZ1 I sat down on it and started to move a little while holding the kid in my arms. Boys fell to sleep in minutes. I saved gallons of gasoline and did not have to leave the house. The best £20 spent ever.

I am always open to ideas and suggestions. But the music is the final judge: if the idea works, it's fine. The ultimate is to reduce everything to minimum. To simplify. And remember legato. This is especially important to me as our band is 12 persons. In a trio context there would be far more space, there.

I have a cable that I soldered in early '90's. Still going strong. Key words: - Neutrik - Gotham (Cordial) silicone cable - decent amount of shrink tube - velcro to keep the cable tidy

I would love to see my bass in a bit better condition, but this style is very sought after nowadays. Do not know or understand why. The wood will be impregnated with that thing called "mojo" which is plain sweat and dirt from your fingers. No, you do not have to cover the bare wood, if you keep the instrument in decent place and conditions. Not close to a radiator or shower, that's it.

C is not for compact, but lithium. Codes come from IEC. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Button_cell See: Electrochemical system

By the way: CR2032 = - C = lithium cell - R = round - diameter 20 mm - 3.2 mm thick I do carry an extra cable (for the g-word player), set of strings, batteries (9 V), tuner/metronome, and some small tools. If the strap could break, I could sit, etc.

Please, keep violin, viola, and cello out of our area. They do not belong to gamba family. Know your ancestors! Sometimes I have seen the use of "a guxxxx bass, sorry about this offensive word, a g-word bass", but I just do not like it myself. Bass is a bass, it is not a g-word. I find that as a diminutive to our honorable instrument. A double/contra/upright bass, an electric upright, an electric bass, an acoustic bass. That's it. A bassist or a bass player, both are fine.