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Yes, he is. I bought mine directly from him. A gentleman who has been working with boats earlier. He knows wood and fibers.

Start from the hi-Z (high impedance) sound. Then try to achieve the same with the preamp. If you love the hi-Z sound, you can tweak it with lo-Z (low impedance, "active") settings, like adding some more bass, or enhancing mids. Play with the settings! Mark King said in one magazine interview that he doesn't know what the adjustments do, he just turns them to the max. (Sure he knows, but the story was fun and a good reminder that do whatever you like.) Another reminder: If your amp or effects love one (hi-Z) or the other (lo-Z) output, use the one that works better. I have said it many times here that especially fuzz/OD/dist as well as some compressors work in a different way depending on the output impedance of the bass. Use your ears.

Sometimes speaker outputs have relays, or fuses. Such a device may protect the power amp circuitry, but without schema the only chance is to look inside and try to understand the circuitry.

I have a Status copy with a bolt-on carbon neck made by him. I modified the bass with Noll electronics. It would be nice to see all creations he has done over the years.

These products do not seem to be suitable for your hands. If the price is right, you can buy ten instruments to cover holes in the wall.

There are very different customers out there. Although your approach is humble, everyone does not think the same way as you do. Be prepared for similar customers, and raise the price accordingly. Think that you sell service, not instruments, and you may find a functional concept. Have you been considering some special neck shapes, light weight bodies, or something that would be your trademark? If I was you, I would learn the offering of few companies. One very good one could be Limelight. I have tried two, and if I was into J and P, the feel and price were very, very good. https://classicandcoolguitars.co.uk/limelight-custom-gallery/

Do you do the settings in the bass or amp?

If you are making all possibilities available, I do support the idea from @BigRedX . If you are intereated in loading the pickups with other coils, you can use simple switches. If you want to blend coils so that they keep their original voicing, consider active mixing of the coils. If your EMGs are battery powered, mixing can be done with passive hi-Z components, but I recommend using Noll Mixpot or John East blending between pickups. One hundred possibilities is a great idea, but most of the options are useless. At least in band context. You will most probably use two modes, like single and series humbucker. There you can hear the difference, and the sounds are useful.

...because of the wider and therefore stronger string vibration. Some manufacturers like bartolini make neck pickups weaker to balance the levels.

Why not try a .120? It opened my MG Quantum 5 SPi to sound super instead of decent. You need to make trials. There are no short-cuts.

Walking is easiest to start from the basics like what notes are in a chord. Diminished, minor, major, 6, 7, maj7. A good addition is to understand sus4, half diminished, as well as ±5. Learn in this order: 1) two beat 2) four beat 3) walking up and down, both up to 2 octaves, and in as small area as possible (like staying in half position) While walking when you see a maj7, play a 6 instead of maj7, or use it sparingly. It has a distinctive tone. These were the basics that my bass teacher taught me years back. (I am still pretty bad.) I had a few books like Modern walking bass technique by Mike Richmond that had better rhythmic ideas than simple quarter notes. I suppose any walking bass book can open your ears to better rhythmic approach: pauses can be as effective as notes at the right places. (I still have lots of issues, especially with rhythms.) And last but definitely not least: listen. NHØP, Brian Bromberg, Marc Johnson. They seem to play only the right notes in right places. Incredible playing.

Get well soon! Name this board REV M, and make two more: REV S, and REV L. Everybody has extra pedals lurking in the corners: one board is never enough.

Oh no, one more Yahaya here. These have to be rare: https://www.notreble.com/buzz/2016/10/10/bass-of-the-week-versoul-swan-8/

My Glockenklang Soul 2x10" is old, but it has been the best combo ever. 38 kg is the bad side. Before that I had a Peavey DataBass, around the same wattage (450), but one 15" BW. A super combo would be 2x12", some 500 W - 1 kW / 8 ohm, two inputs, and under 25 kg. HPF. Built-in wheels.

...and the neck is wide, 19 mm string spacing!

Sorry, I need to meet a pro optometrist! What I like in piezo is the versatility, but it also means quite a lot of adjustments. Wide frequency range gives possibilities, but there's that extra hassle. I think that two outputs and two preamps would be the ultimate solution, but who wants to carry all equipment to the gig, I don't know. All in all, Affirma is a different instrument if you are after something else and want to experiment.

You are about to buy a bass, but the only reason not to get it is a piezo pickup that has an inbuilt preamp? If you think a piezo creates only hiss, you should test the bass. I have had an Affirma 4 (fretted), and now own a fretless 5. Both are from the first batch, 90's.

You want: 1) zing - SS RW 30, 35, or 40 set 2) flatter response - Ni RW 45, or 50 set 3) dull sound - flats or tapewounds But on top of this, you need to find the set that speaks to you under your fingers. Yes, changing strings costs, but the bass may become the machine you want after few trials. And a new bass costs much more.

I wouldn't bother. I expect the price to be irrelevant to the playability and sound it makes. Collectible? No. Soundmachine? There are better alternatives available. If the production year is important, the price does not mean a thing, although the parts are most likely a collection. "Handmade" details lower the price as well as desirability.

20 000 mAh = 20 Ah, which is quite a lot. 20 Ah / 3.25 A = 5 - 7 h (practical amount, and the amp does not consume 65 W all the time it's ON) I think the biggest issue is can you get all the current you need through the bank and the cable. There may be internal limitations in the bank how big a current is possible. If the manufacturer does not give you reasonable specs, you just have to try and find the limits by yourself. USB is not that flexible system that it looks. I would consider a battery pack of the right voltage, and a suitable charger.

I might try an even cheaper parametric pedal, like Artec. It is easier to use to find the frequency area you want to boost or cut.

Some short scales are on the pricey side: http://www.schorrguitars.de/the-owl-bass/ Check how to order for prices.

Come on, it is a mass produced basic product. Before drilling, check the depth! The hole needs to be deep enough for the insert, but you should not drill to the fretboard, or through it. If the hole is not deep enough, you may remove the fretboard while tightening the insert. So hey...