itu

Please someone, help him. The control compartment looks like after a world war. That is everything but reliable or working unit. I would change: - the maker - all components seen in the pictures. If you are after a quality set, replace pots with blue Bourns pots. https://www.mouser.fi/ProductDetail/Bourns/96A1D-G28-S23L?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtC25l1F4XBU8rCtvM96wXO7q3HYRkOsNA%3D Yes, these cost nearly 5 times more than some lousy CTS or Alpha but these are quality. And on top of anything else, they do not produce noise, like their carbon siblings.

If the screw crowns are in bad shape, find a shop or a builder and buy new screws. It may be so that there are no springs under the pickups. Many companies use just sponge or foam. You can update the system with new springs. Usually you can find them from the same place as the screws. If not, study your pens... The change takes just some time, but it is not hard. To put new springs back to the instrument may be somewhat complicated, as pickup magnets like them. But put the screws and springs to the pickups and find a suitable angle for the instrument before the attachment, this should help you.

My choice was an age old Countryman type 85. It works with a 9 V battery or Phantom. Box is so tough, that you can drive over it. All connections are recessed, so it is very close to indestructible. Price was decent (£60, 2nd hand) and as broadcasting companies have used them, I think it has to be good enough. Seems to work well with passive and active basses.

She is not a g*****. She's a bass! I would not be so interested in opinions, if she does the work for you. Just play and feel her, play yourself through her.

Yes, if we are talking about cones and cones only. And I can read between the lines, that you would love to hear that a bigger cone would relate to the lower frequency - like heavy weight should relate to bass' better sound (you can check Roger Sadowsky's work). But a cone works in a very different way depending on the application. If you just put a speaker element to the floor and start playing with it through a bass amp, your perception might be mixed. When the element is put to a speaker box of any kind, the sound changes dramatically. Then you change the shape and dimensions of the box and again, you get different results. I want to suggest that you should amaze yourself: buy an element and try it in different boxes and plates and by itself. One element by itself is nearly non-functional. The size is just one dimension and it does not dictate the use per se, as @chris_b earlier pointed out. Simplifications are nice but they need to have some reasonable physics behind them. Yes, you can say, that a 12" woofer is probably not very good for highest frequencies and a dome tweeter just does not work in a subwoofer. Still the difference between a 10" and 15" is not directly related to their use, the lowest possible frequency, or the power they can reproduce. There are so many other parameters, please take a quick look: http://www.eminence.com/pdf/Basslite_S2010.pdf

The reason for using two sets is still unclear to me but whatever. The g-word tube amp has a transformer that already is a HPF (not an LPF), and that is the reason why the amp can not go extremely low. And your idea of lowering bass is a good idea. If you use your effects on that g-word amp, the system may be very interesting.

Marvin Gaye & Tammi Terrell - Ain't no mountain MG - What's going on BeeGees - Stayin alive (with uptempo jazz feel) Robbie Williams - Let me entertain you (the singer of the band where I double the bass is at least as crazy as RW) Dave Lee Roth - I'm just a gigolo Dizzy - A night in Tunisia EWF - September I would love to try these: B52's - Loveshack, Was not was - I feel better than James Brown, Rod Stewart - Da ya think I'm sexy, and Four brothers

You can connect the cold (3) and the ground (1) together to sleeve, and hot (2) to the tip. This is something else than mic to line input... If you have noise issues, try to use the same power line to all units that connect together, mix-amp-spkrs. If there are other active parts connected, like bass amp or similar, the same power line usually helps. If you want to cut the galvanic line, you can use tiny transformers inside the adapters. These are ready: https://www.neutrik.com/en/neutrik/products/accessories/d-shape-adapters You can build your own using these: https://www.neutrik.com/en/neutrik/products/accessories/modules https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nte1

Pots may work, if the preamp is that very common "passive mix - active tone" system. The other tone is 30 k linear but there are no visible texts on that blend or vol.

For me the most helpful idea was to put dots (3., 5. etc.) to the side of the fretboard. You may use tape or nail lacquer. Use flageolet notes (harmonics) to find the exact positions.

From the somewhat foggy picture I can see that your neck pickup live wire is cut. It should be soldered back to its place. The treble (?) pot (lower left corner) has not got cover and may be in bad shape. I suppose it may be the same value as the bass (?) pot, linear 30 k. Pickups are passive, there is no power supply to them. Dual opamp (JRC 4558?) gives a hint that it is for tone control. It may provide some boost, too. Blend pot is probably passive. Somewhat sharper pictures of the front and back of the board would give quite a lot of understanding, what it is there for.

Pickup preamps do not have to be boosters. So you may get exactly the same output from an active or passive system. Then we usually talk about a buffer, not about an amp/booster. Active tone control itself may be a buffer, but the adjustments may be that powerful that the system is a frequency dependent booster (or cutter). Pickup can be hi-Z or lo-Z and there may be an amp after it - or not. I would first concentrate on sound and if needed, then tone tweaking possibilities. Bad pickup will sound bad even after a good preamp. I suggest you to find the suitable pickup first and then continue through the signal path, that is: Pickups - Active/Passive blend - A/P volume - A/P tone - output.

https://guitarelectronics.com/active-passive-true-bypass-switch/

Please give some more information about your system. There are just few pickups that are active by nature. EMG is the most known. It has a lo-Z coil and an amp integrated to an epoxy filled case. Only works with battery. Most systems on the market are passive with just active tone controls. This kind of tone capsule is easy to bypass with a DPDT-switch. If you buy a pot with such a switch, you do not need to make extra holes to your instrument.

When there was only vanilla ice cream, nobody asked for strawberry. I have played many very good sounding basses, but there have been different issues that have prevented me buying many of those. I have had the possibility to acquire the bass I like, not the the one that does not fit. My preferences are that 19 mm spacing (all of my basses do not have this), wide but shallow neck, 4 or 5 strings, light SS string set, 34 - 36" scale and light weight. This narrows the selection available but there are so many alternatives nowadays that I do not complain. I could play some 12 pound Jazz or Höfner B-bass or Steinberger L-2 but they do not represent me the optimal. I have studied playing while young but practically I am a weekend warrior nowadays. A suitable instrument helps me to go to gigs and rehearsals. I enjoy my instruments, because I feel like at home with them and I can concentrate on the details of the playing in stead of doing a workout. Sometimes I forget the quality of my instruments but visiting a local shop or playing someone else's instrument reminds me of my own, personal equipment.

The bass front and back are like B&W or positive/negative. For sure that was naturally intentional.

https://www.benedettipickups.com/micros-custom I do not know for sure, but they might be able to help you. That attachment bar to the fretboard caught my eye.

As you can see it from the diagram: https://www.bestbassgear.com/wiring-diagrams/2B-4b_epoxy.pdf the system is active tone control only. The signal route is: pickups - blend - volume (with the bypass switch) - active tone control - output This is the most common way to do it. With the switch you can bypass the active tone control and the system is like any other passive system with just volume and blend.

Which amp, which cable... your description was quite sparse.

Some ideas, maybe: https://soulman.fi/

I may repeat myself, but that Nordstrand has passive blend (pan, balance) and volume. This is no different to an Artec or Glockenklang or Darkglass or Aguilar et al. that offer only active tone control. Sound differences are related to opamp (battery life varies from 200 to 1000 hours) and frequency choices. Not that they are bad, but not completely active. There seem to be just few companies that have active blend: EMG (their fully active sets), East (that can be switched to fully active OR passive) and Noll (see the Mixpot).

The age-old 5532? Reminds me of old mixer and Alembic designs. It is a dual opamp (NE5534 is the single version), that has low noise, consumes quite a lot of power (for an opamp) and has a low impedance output (this is the reason for relatively high power consumption). There are better and newer solutions, but NE553X has good performance even today. After some search, I found a spec sheet of the NE5534 from July 1979!

Center detent. They are Bal, Treble and Bass.

Real active mixer (that I think East is) has no load effect on pickups, while you turn the pots (they are not related to the signal route the same way). My opinion is that it has the best quality soundwise. Price is around £200. If you are after an active tone circuitry, there are simple pots after the pickups and then the active tone capsule. This way the pots put load to the pickups and affect the sound. These are very common and there are lots of options from a relatively good £20 Artec. I do not think that the quality changes that much if you pay £100 more for a similar design. There are still those Vol or Bal pots that cost £2 each and their quality is, well, mediocre. Which do you think you and your quality instrument deserves? How much that bass of yours cost?

BreadBin was faster but I do have the same question: Is it really active with Vol Vol Tone Tone or rather Vol Balance Treble Bass?