itu

Just on the right side from that trimmer (which looks like a flathead screw - do not touch it) you can see 6 + 6 soldered legs of the input and output jacks. Open the jack screws first and try again. If there is a power connection (9 V) somewhere, the PCBA may be stuck from that corner, so take your time. The power socket is maybe on the left side of those red&black wires and the trio of solderings look pretty lousy. It may be loose, so you just need a hot iron and some tin. I would wash the PCBA with (denaturated) ethanol to see, if there are other issues with solderings. Does not look so clean...

A pic or two would be very helpful...

TS plugs/jacks have tip (+) and sleeve (-), TRS have tip, ring and sleeve. I suggest you tin the cables to tip and sleeve. The phasing actually matters, if you happen to use several cabs. The easiest way to check phasing is to use a 9 V battery and check which way the cone moves when you connect the battery + to the speaker + (and grounds together). Phase is OK, if the cone pushes forward.

It was just a suggestion as reverb has other uses than just, yes, reverb.

There are quite a few alternatives here, I think: 1) string change to stainless steels 2) pick up adjustment may help 3) make a bypass switch for pots 4) make the bass partially active by using noll's mixpot (removes pick up load issues, but needs a battery) 5) change pick ups 6) EQ pedal = active preamp?

Try a little bit of reverb with fuzz... My choice is Iron Ether Nimbus. It has LPF and HPF for reverb so it does not mud the sound at all. Very bass driven design. You may find one from Taylor himself or in Europe from: https://www.effekt-boutique.de/iron-ether/

B relates to linear and numbers to 30 kilo ohms. So you should be after around 25 - 30 kilo ohm linear pot. It should be noted, that B sometimes relates to logarithmic pot. Sadly, there are no standards here.

I just happened to find out, that Warwick's Hellborg amps and cabs seem to be on sale. Those interested will find their way to that well-known German T-shop.

I started with a green (sic!) tinted Status MM neck (satin finish, no dots; thank you folks out there). I had an extra Q-tuner pick-up. Went to a store to buy 4 single bridge pieces. Called a luthier that I know. He built a body from local wood (Finnish birch) and put the set together. Now I have a rock solid dark bass with no adjustments or pots. Works like a dream. Did NOT cost £3 000.

Wonderful dark fretboard!

Not just plug in, but they need to be soldered. And as there is something with the output, please contact your tech.

3below sent an excellent link, although you may need translator for a moment... If you look at the picture (or probably the actual unit), there are those four big transistor up left. Under the two rightmost big MOSFETs there are two parts missing, so those transistors. You can find them by reading the PCBA. Transistor type is BF423. https://www.onsemi.com/PowerSolutions/product.do?id=BF423 I have to say that there may be something else that is faulty, too, but trial surely is not very expensive.

At the moment there is a red Sonic Hammer in the marketplace: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/334589-modulus-usa-quantum-ss-sonic-hammer-5-string/

Sir, I just have to say that also a Zon might be one reasonable alternative. There is one with a cocacola top: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/333003-zon-sonus-custom/ At least would love to try that one. Yes, it is a bolt-on but a Legacy is rare. The body shape clearly relates to Spector NS-1 (Ned Steinberger) - Warwick Streamer - Fodera Monarch - etc. so obviously Mr. Steinberger got something right with that. My personal favorites while choosing an instrument are: neck shape (backside as flat as possible), string spacing (19 mm), ergonomics (including light weight), sound on the darker side, and I like carbon fiber as well as hate the F-word (by Leo). Nice to have: no front dots, dark top wood colors, dark fretboard (definitely not maple), easy string changes (top loaded bridge), strap locks, 4/5 strings. Strings and electronics can be easily tweaked if needed.

The first test - always - is to put a cable to FX loop, so a bass (yes!) cable from SEND to RETURN. If the problem is gone, buy a short cable to the loop. These connections tend to be the usual suspect. Speaker cable is the next one - use only quality ones and check them periodically. At least once a year. A loose screw is hard to find. (Other than that, Speakon is the right solution for speakers.)

I played a red 5-string Passion series II back in the early 90's in a shop. She had her little twin sister (4-string) beside her. Similar necks out of graphite. So did you mean five string Arpège in graphite?

Don't worry, your instrument is still state-of-the-art. And rare: I found my 1988 Passion after hunting slappyto, zikinf, and leboncoin for months. More pics, please...

So you are the same guy asking for advice in another thread to buy a new top quality instrument and you have such a beauty at home! No need to go shopping, there are only few that can reach her level. (I do have two Passions from 1988 and 1989. Won't separate until death us...)

For a price of a Status replacement bolt-on neck, you may find a decent 2nd hand neck-through today, so... - active or passive - both can be very good (like John East) or really bad - 1...4/5/6...18 strings? 4 and 5 are still the most common - graphite or wood? (if you are not aware of CITES, there are many exotic wood species that are protected, so maple fretboards are becoming more popular) - short (up to 32"), long (34"), extra long scale (35" and up) or all of them (fanned frets)? - there are very light instruments (from around 6-7 lbs) available nowadays that are made that way and sound great, i.e. you do not have to buy an anchor anymore I myself hate these somewhat popular relic instruments, although I have played few very good (although expensive!) ones. I think, that I can buy a used, worn one but if new, it has to be in impeccable condition. It is my job to wear it out and make mine. One thing to consider is a custom instrument from a local luthier. Choices are practically endless, so an active dialogue is in order before starting and during manufacturing. Read through Thomann.de, classifieds here, in Reverb.com et al. and you will certainly build up a serious GAS sooner than you think. Remember, the right amount of instruments is "one more". EDIT: I did not know, that you own a Vigier Arpège. She is the top. Discussion ends.

I have several IEs including a Xerograph DeLuxe. Settings are wider than some other manufacturers have and that relates to handling. Only a small change may change the sound quite a lot. But then different settings are different sounds. I suggest buying a set of StompShields: https://www.thomann.de/gb/stompshield_the_stompshield_kit.htm

I do not know your mileage but there are two options to consider on top of that fretboard learning: the instrument, and its tuning. Is it a double bass you are actually after (EUB is pretty close) or a fretless? Classical music has usually parts, where bow would be nice. Fretless on the other hand is somewhere in between its big brother and a fretted electric. I have to admit, that bow is a chore in my hands but I have been listening to some exceptional bassists that can deliver incredible sounds using a bow. Pity, I can't. If you have decided the instrument already, why not open up your mind to tunings? H/EADG/C is not the only possibility: double bass guys have solo tunings, you may want to try cello-like tuning in fifths and that is OK with electric, too. Just study the D'Addario string tension guide, first. A basic string set does not support that: only a little bit of work and you can have the tuning you need. http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf

Jabanez BTB has 35" scale, 4/5/6/7 strings.

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