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Barry Moorhouse & Tony Bacon - The bass book (1995) Reference section - Gibson single pickup - EB (1970) - EB-0 (1959-61 v1, 1961-74 v2) - EB-0L (long scale, 34.5") - Electric bass, EB-1 (1953-58, 69-71) - EB-2 (1958-61, 64-70) - EB-4L (1972-73, long scale) two pickups - EB-2D (1966-72) - EB-3 (1961-79) There are quite a few other models like the six string EB-6 (three versions), T-bird, Les Paul, Victory, Melody Maker, Q-80 etc.

You may ask Iron Ether stuff from Europe: https://www.effekt-boutique.de/ Although the pages show just the name of the manufacture, a question of deliveries does not cost a penny. The shop is very helpful.

Well, if you would like to adjust those frequencies at least sometimes, that variable could be modified to a switchable with a switch and two trimmers.

But this time the price is right!

One big thing with faceless net shops and hometown entrepreneurs is the service. Net shop does not have that saucy teenager trying to convince me that this X is the best there is and I just have to buy it. Now! On the other hand, my possibilities to try that thing in the net shop does not exist. Net shop sells something to me with maybe reasonable but time consuming return terms, where I have to pick that thing from the post office and then return it the other day. Pack, write papers and wish for the best. Yes, the possibility to return stuff is very good addition to that net shop service, but that personal help and assist in the shop does not exist. I should rely on YT/net/BC comments. (Made by those saucy teenagers... maybe.) I think that an introvert shoe-gazer loves this net opportunity, but as prices have gotten close or even under the net shop offerings, my choice is nowadays a local store. They remember me (or just say so), and they get me to their shops to lose my money. Touching the stuff and playing with one is something net shop is not able to offer. Yes, I do compare prices but my home town shops can make me very competitive offers. In. Real. Life.

tc electronic (1140, 1210, 1220, 1280 etc.), Tom Scholz Rockman, Boss (1/2 rack units, thank you b7I4s), Alembic (superfilter and preamp), Drawmer (all those compressors)... there are lots of manufacturers and units. I think that you should look after 1980's and 1990's stuff. At the time people (especially those 6-stringers) had enormous systems which contained downright everything. Some players like Stuart Hamm were nearly exceptions: he only had a wire between his bass and amp.

I see, the NTBT or any other newer module has not the frequency tuning possibility. My old tone capsule has capacitors that can be changed, like here: https://bartolini.net/wp-content/uploads/Docs/Pickups/Legacy/9W-9V-XTBT.pdf It seems that their archive has no more the instructions to change the frequencies.

Can you tune the preamp with changing the capacitors (that are assembled to the pots)? If so, you can even make it asymmetric. bartolini has instructions for this. By the way, is the model really NTB?

I ruined my hands (especially wrists) in the 80's riding a road bike. They are cold in nearly every temperature, except sauna. I prefer hot. As I am also "seasoned", I do swim somewhat. Today my exercise was 2000 meters. The last 200 m took 2.48, which is not that bad for my age. I am also a true bassist, so I can not walk and chew bubble gum at the same time. During my playing I need to concentrate on standing still, too. I do not want to fall over...

I get your point but still think that this idea needs some refinement. Why don't you let the string go to that round brass part? Now the string has to do two corners, so it will be a chore to replace or put through. To help the string replacement, the bridge base block could be turned around to reveal those brass parts. Then the angle adjustment idea has to be changed, too. Your idea is strong, but you rely on similar looking parts. Should you use the best ideas from this and redraw it once more, please? My problem with bass bridges is that they are always "long". My fretless has a 36" scale and the instrument needs some space for the bridge. The "shortest possible" bridge would be the best solution to keep the overall length reasonable but where are the options? The attachment to the wood can be on the frontside, so please consider turning the base plate around. Hope you understand my comments. I might try to sketch it, but my drawing skills are funny/ridiculous. My little sister got all drawing molecules.

Sounds good, I hate jazz spacing up there...

If the bass has 19 mm string spacing at the bridge and 4 strings, it is "broadneck" so standard by nature. But if it has 5 strings and 19 mm spacing, it certainly is a "broadneck" or wide 5. 5-string basses may have spacing between 14 - 21.5 mm. These very wide fretboards can be found from Ibanez BTB, certain Warwicks, and far more expensive custom instruments like Modulus Graphite. There are others, too, but I just keep this comment short.

It seems that there are new Li-Ion 9V batteries: https://reactual.com/portable-electronics/rechargeable-lithium-batteries-9v.html I have to admit, that the capacity is high for the size, 600 mAh vs. 230 mAh.

Jacks were ruled out after some European regulation. Americans do not care about it that much, but they need to install Speakons, if they want to sell their amps at this side of the big water.

Turn on your radio and change the station once a day. Try to keep up. If this is very easy, I am pretty sure that you can sub a variety of bands or your ears need cleaning.

Nearly any piezo would work well (K&K or similar). Sizewise the frequency response is a bit different with smaller or bigger disks. But there are two things you should consider: the placement and the preamp. Preamp is the easier one, piezo has so high output impedance that it should be tamed with an active buffer. This high impedance may cut bass response drastically in an amp input. You can tinker one by yourself (like something FET-based) or buy one. Placement is another story. If your bass has a place for the piezo, fine, but you may need to make few trials. Bridge area is very common but as the piezo is sensitive to vibrations only, you may try any surface that vibrates. Thinner may be different (like the control cavity - remember, that both sides are fine) than the neck pocket. You can not bend a piezo (it is ceramics), but as it likes vibrations, tape or glue it very well. A tin or copper foil/tape can be used to cover the disk to prevent hum. Insulation is naturally needed in between. If you want to study a bit of acoustics, check Chladni patterns.

A X-over was the eye-opener for me. Blend is nice but two frequency bands is The Thing. KMA Tyler is very powerful, but IE Divaricator is a bit more straightforward and very fast to use.

My next flight case might be an SKB... Which is your model? I have been looking at this one: https://www.skbcases.com/music/products/proddetail.php?f=&id=655&o=&offset=&c=84&s=75

Elrick, Ritter and Sei, well they are high-end, but I can see only three, not eight? You certainly noticed, that there are lots of those F-word bolt-ons available. For some reason, whatever it might be, but certainly they are sold in numbers.

I have the mono and the stereo (M80 classic and Dual). Some older models do not have those attachments in them, so I would buy the newer version. Then the case can be fitted with their accessory case, Tick. I have a small effects board in the case. https://monocreators.com/collections/bass-cases https://monocreators.com/products/classic-tick-accessory-case-2-0-black

An accurate replacement is the best option, as the specs will be as planned. Another type of element may affect the sound and tuning a lot. X-over takes care of the impedance, so do not worry.