itu

Thank you anyway my dear bassic brother, that Arpège is of great interest.

@Hellzero: do you have Passion's schema as well? That Arpege was a really good find.

No. I mean that the wattage numbers give us a slightly faulty view to loudness. I do like headroom. To push 10 dB more out of my system would require a very powerful amp, two cabs, or some heavy processing, like compressing. Or just push the current system much harder, and use a pair of good earplugs - which is the wrong way. Volume war should be handled with lowering overall volume. This usually means discussion with others. Sometimes also someone is required who can use the mixer board.

To remind you about power and loudness, to get a very audible 10 dB more, a 300 W amp should be replaced with a 3 kW amp. Doubling that 300 W twice (300 - 600 - 1200 W) you get around 5 - 6 dB more. Not bad at all, but the same is available with two similar cabinets.

Buy "Standing in the shadows of Motown" and learn it through. Use a looper to get instant feedback of your playing. Stand in front of a mirror and try to improve your ergonomics, and playing technique. Try to push the string behind a fret to get a consistent sound. Light touch improves your speed. Less force, but good sound is your goal. Learn to play legato. Keep time. Learn the fretboard. Play lots of chords: triads, 7, m7, maj7, mmaj7, 6, dim etc. Two octaves helps to learn every fret. Learn two beat, and four beat, and then walking bass. Before that you need to be able to play at least the most common chords. Move your plucking hand and find new sounds. Listen to A from 5th fret @ E and an open A side by side. I hate metronome, therefore I play along with radio: you do not know what's coming up, and you need to follow the music. In time.

If size is not an issue, maybe a rack X-over could be a good starting point, too. PA X-overs may be on the cheap side, if you happen to find a used one, like Behringer, dbx or similar.

Darryl Jones was known for advertising and using Pilots. I think fretless, too. He used Pilot on Sting - Bring on the night 2-live. Some models had some kind of replaceable fretboard, but I think the idea was short lived. https://letstalkguild.com/ltg/index.php?threads/best-years-for-pilots-years-to-avoid.165596/ https://jacopastorius.com/features-2/stories/the-jaco-hartke-connection/

I have an IE Divaricator and have used a KMA Tyler. I ended up adjusting them both to around 400 Hz. If you check a 4-string fretboard and its frequencies starting from 42 Hz E, you will end up to around 300 - 400 Hz area at the highest frets. I had an idea that the pure fundamental frequency would be a decent start. I really turned the f knob back and forth quite some time, but that 400 Hz has been functional. Fundamentals are solid, while I can push the fx to their limits. Sometimes even too much. But the low bass still sounds really good. If you want to do an easy trial, I think Rolls makes a pretty cheap X-over.

Is the dimmer for old bulbs or LEDs? Modern Schneider Exxact dimmer seems to work better than many other brands. If the dimming is flicker free, you should get less issues than with older phase cut systems. Shielding helps somewhat, but your pickups most probably are the window to buzz. You could try an age old pickup shield à la J bass (check M. Miller's natural J).

My tab has around 3000 - 4000 scores and this year only we have been playing +130 different songs. Audience is listening, and we need to play some customer favourites every now and then. Does not get boring. (String sets twice a year.)

I think MÖG is quite a lot like this, and its predecessor was a Quadrafuzz designed by Craig Anderton. https://dpw.se/product/mog-d1-4-band-distortion/ https://craiganderton.org/multiband-signal-processing/ I have had a MÖG but the adjustments were too aggressive for me. I think metal players use it somewhat.

If your pedals are not attached to a pedal board, buy one, and that OneSpot, too.

There's an old joke about musician that passed by a pub (or a music store). But not to buy anything sounds like an illness of some kind which has nothing to do with money.

If the woods are fine, and I mean ergonomics and feel, it is pretty simple to change electronics. There aren't too many basses I would buy only because of electronics. Well, Vigier Nautilus, Alembic series I and II, Peavey Cyberbass...

Piccolo strings should be considered, too. Recognition is faster.

My best find was a Lexicon PCM90 reverb. Maybe £100 or something. It was stolen few years later, and I got a good compensation from my insurance company.

One point: Magnetic material does not affect the sound nearly as much as the field does. Remember: Nd can be weaker than AlNiCo. Some pickup materials may affect magnetic field a little, but this is usually a minor detail. Another point: The geometry of the pickup has some effect on the inductance. One more detail is how the pickup is constructed, like is a J a stacked humbucker, or quadrocoil, or a simple singlecoil, or...

That's a very simple to fix if the pots can be seen. If they are not visible, then you need to remove the PCB. Not too complicated.

What do you mean by noisy? Scratcing? If so, use a bit of deoxit, not any oil at hand.

Neck: bolt-on, 24 frets, maple, widish. Body: very asymmetric. This is distinctive, and should lead us to the right brand.

I liked the bass, although the neck was very flexible. Electronics were from Status (treble booster) as well as noiseless single coils. Nice looking bass, but anything over £400 today would sound like a joke. A mint unit would cost more, but £1000 sounds like... stealing? Washburn isn't that retro. I had a chance to buy a hand made bolt on carbon neck copy, which is far better that Washburn. It's an instant back to 80's bass!