agedhorse

With high output basses, be sure you are using the gain switch in the low gain position.

We've discussed it many times, but nothing concrete one way or the other.

Yes, the WD-800 will fit, but because it's 2" less deep you may need to fabricate some hardware. The width and height are identical and they share the same rack ears as well (the current WD rack kit mounting holes are slightly smaller than the old Walkabout, but can easily modified to work with either the WA or WD). The specific caution is because the WD is a lot more powerful than the original WA, I would recommend ONLY using it with the 8 ohm version of the cabinet, and set the amp to 2 ohm mode to scale down the power to 300 watts into 8 ohms (still more than the cabinet can handle but with the HPF set to about 40-50Hz, and the damping set to high, you should be ok).

Sometimes, placement to avoid reflections off of hard surfaces ends up being more important in the bigger picture. This is especially true in large venues with hard surfaces like arenas.

Just be aware that the actual radiation pattern is only loosely connected to the diameter. The calculated pattern does not include the elements that modify the pattern, things like cone shape, depth, dust cap shape, material and coupling to the bobbin.

It’s one way to implement muting, but not the most common way by far. It depends on what is happening throughout the amp as to how muting is accomplished and where. Sometimes, more than one method is used in an amp too.

There are several ways to mute the amp. You want to be darn sure the module is really the problem or you will be throwing money away. Also, beware of these modules sourced from China, there are counterfeits of this series coming from there.

Excellent, this is why I always recommend the best service you can find… premium service, even at a premium price is always a better value.

If the bottom passive radiator is too close to the floor it will change the tuning of the cabinet. That’s (partly)what the feet are for.

Agreed, everything gets paid for one way or the other. In the US, in most states, there is no sales tax on the labor. Only parts and materials are subject to it but only if the parts were purchased by the service business and sales tax wasn’t paid at that point. This is why comparing costs is so difficult, you pay more overall in taxes, but you have universal healthcare and we have an expensive mess run mostly by private insurance companies. Pick your poison…

A couple of comments that apply here… 1. much of the additional labor applies to correcting previous repair work, and removal of the PCB for the additional work (including cleaning residue and contamination, which is important to minimize leakage currents) 2. 20% of the total repair cost doesn’t go to the shop, it goes to the all government to pay for the costs of running the country, including social heath programs. The pre-VAT amount is similar to the cost of factory servicing.

Depending on the year, the 15's were usually EVM-15L's, the 10's could have been one of 3 or 4 different drivers (the one in the picture is NOT a CA-10 nor is it an Eminence, it may have been a Precision Devices driver). The 6-1/2" driver is a customized Eminence driver, there were at least 2 versions, one with an unvented motor and a vented dust cap and the one pictured that has a vented motor (because the dust cap is not vented). I do not know what the customizations were, but it it likely that it was related to the mid voicing and extension. If everything is working, I would leave the drivers alone.

You will probably need to order a replacement horn with a new driver at this point. I haven't seen the old style is years.

He is tough, but he gets things done right. That’s what you are paying for, not his personality! 😂

Stan’s a fantastic service engineer, one of the best I have worked with. Say hi to him for me.