agedhorse

It’s not 2kW rms like most other amps/brands are rated. From the AC input power and the calculations used by the safety agencies, it calculates to between 650 and 709 watts rms. I explained these calculations and then did them in another thread.

The version is not 94V0, that's the flame spread rating of the PCB! This amp is difficult to repair, it generally costs as much to repair as it does to replace the main PCB, which is why Ampeg offers this as a repair part.

Naaah, just correcting scrumpymike's post in the event that somebody reads it and is confused.

Actually, it does not say this in the instant gratification section. It says to start at 1:00 on the channel masters. It’s also a full 2 channel amp, so the master volume controls are used to balance between the two channels for channel switching purposes. In the feature set descriptions, it clearly describes decreasing the channel master when using high gain settings and increasing the channel master when using lower gain settings. All of the controls operate as described throughout the manual, and provide the expected results. Features that are unique or unusual (like the symmetry control) are described in detail, which is why I always recommend to spend some time reading and understanding the owner’s manual. A lot of time and effort go into writing good ones. What does the Handbox owner’s manual say about the operation of the master control?

I posted this over on TalkBass in response to jb90’s comments, but I think it’s applicable here as well: My feeling is that one benefit of a public forum is an open discussion of both the benefits AND drawbacks of a piece of equipment, as well as potential challenges in learning how to operate a new piece of gear. Everyone benefits from these kinds of discussions provided they remain civil and respectful. What is not cool is when the discussions evolve into accusations based on incorrect information leading to false accusatory conclusions. Life is not all “glitter and unicorns”, there are going to be issues with any new gear. To avoid such discussions really do the community a disservice in the bigger picture IMO

This is simply not true in general. Tube amps do not have a problem with low master volume control settings unless that is an inherent part of a specific design, in which case suggests that a master volume control should not be included if it’s not intended to be used as such.

I’m sorry, since this is a bass forum I thought you intended to use the sub as a bass amp/cab full range. For its intended use, as a pa sub under tops, it’s fine.

The cabinet cuts off between 100 & 200 Hz based on the crossover control. It’s unsuitable as a bass guitar speaker without a full range cabinet to cover above the HF cutoff of the sub cabinet

Are you looking to play bass full range through it or as part of a biamped system? From a casual glance, it looks like there's no way to defeat the low pass (high cut) filter that's part of the crossover on the sub itself. That's not going to sound very good as a full range speaker.

Not so much upgraded as repaired/ replaced. One of the challenges in all amps is insuring a source of parts necessary for repairs 5, 10 and 20 years down the road. In some cases it may not be worthwhile to repair a 20 year old, but in most cases when the part is available it’s cost effective to do so. If the part is proprietary and unavailable then you don’t have that choice.

Since their marketing slighted competing products using ICEPower modules, let me provide an alternate perspective. Some designers (me included) use ICEPower parts because of their long established history of both high performance and high reliability. The modules are typically supported for many more years than proprietary designs. This means that customers have more options for servicing their amps later in their service live. For example, power modules are still available (I stock large quantities too) and currently being manufactured for every class D amp that I have designed, going back 20 years. This is generally not true for proprietary designs.

I’m going to suggest that maybe it was never repaired correctly the first time… in general these are pretty reliable amps until under-qualified techs start struggling with them.

If this is the case, it’s likely that the noise was external to the amp, possibly entering through the power source. Another possibility is that the noise is from a cell phone, wireless router, Wi-Fi device entering the signal path post master volume control (unlikely but possible).

I thought I would let this play itself out, see what kind of armchair (or chesterfield) suggestions bubbled out of the primordial ooze. In the hundreds of these amps I have serviced and supported world wide (out of tens of thousands built), I have seen exactly 2 cold (dry) solder joints. Why is this? Because the flus chemistry and solder alloy used, combined with the double sided PCBs with plated holes, this is the most reliable way to build an amp, backed up by a matching history of less than 1 ppm wave solder joint failure. That’s probably the last place to look. Unless you are familiar with proper safety procedures, don’t go poking around with anything inside an amp. Now, when you say the noise in unaffected by the volume knob, WHICH volume knob… there are 2 channel volume controls and a master volume control. Does the noise change when you tap on the chassis? You can leave the cover on for this. dies the noise go away when you plug a 1/4” (6.35mm) plug into any of the 3 effects returns? by doing this, you can eliminate 1/4 of the amp at each step without even opening the amp up. Do not spray anything, anywhere in the amp, that just makes things more expensive down the road.

Great post Phil. I have read engineering articles about the use of bamboo alone and in conjunction with conventional wood in compression laminated beams of various cross sections. The results were promising, especially for longer spans. I don’t think the weight saving alone makes it a structurally beneficial material for a plywood substitute, but possible as a face lamination for its surface properties.

I looked at the "Natural fiber" promotion and immediately thought what a good advert campaign this would make for a laxitive... combine with heavy bass guitar and things are guaranteed to move right along

Agreed. Due to our size, we obviously have a significant system in place to track both the source and composition of the woods used in cabinet construction, in many cases this is not true and you get what you get (buyer beware). We use so much of these products that it's also in our interest to be sure that we are receiving what we are paying for. CNC grade materials have different composition tolerances, the core plies are more uniform and the face plies have a guaranteed minimum thickness. The plies are usually thinner and there are more of them too, resulting in less warp and twist. For high volume precision production, this is critical because the reference for the cutter is off of the top surface of the material and if the thickness varies, this affects the depths of dados and rabbits, plus any other joints (like lock-miters) the cabinet may employ. The cabinet shop can go through more than a hundred (4' x 8' equiv.) sheets of plywood in a single day, it's not practical to struggle with pieces that don't quite fit together. The advantage of CNC grades is uniformity (thickness, glue lines and lack of voids), the primary disadvantage is cost... but the end result is that it costs less to assemble and finish using CNC grade so in the end the cabinet is a much better product for not much more money. The accuracy for CNC parts milled in production is typically between +/- 1/64" and +/- 1/32" resulting in cabinets that have tight, square joints. As you can guess, for the finger joints used in some of our natural finish guitar cabinets, this is essential or the parts simply won't go together. Here's an video that shows cabinet production:

I've used a large amount (tens of thousands of board-feet) Italian Poplar (CNC grade mostly) for many years, haven't had any issues with softness or structural properties.

To be clear, most Italian Poplar is FSC certified: https://fsc.org/en/newsfeed/fsc-italy-publishes-national-forest-stewardship-standard

This is SOMETIMES done on pro audio amps specifically for bi-amp applications, it's important to recognize when this is done (it's always specified on the back panel legend around the jack) It's not a good idea for general bass guitar applications, a few manufacturers do stupid (non-conforming) things with pin 2+/-, and there are also (just) a couple of manufacturers that use NL2 jacks which will not accept an NL4 plug. The NL2 or NL4 splitter cable is the best solution for this with no downside (other than if you forget your cable)

I see a fair number of problems caused by knock-off Chinese SpeakOn plugs. Sometimes they can damage the mating jack, resulting in costly repairs.

Heavily weighted with lead perhaps?

Yup, and assuming that the comparison results using A weighting are "good enough" can result in incorrect, inaccurate (by a mile) conclusions. When somebody bases their opinions as "fact" because of meaningless data, yet they believe with all their hearts that it's uncontroversially true, that's getting awfully close to the definition of blind faith IME.

I don't recommend it, the tuning is quite different on the Walkabout. If you do try it, de-rate the Subway driver to about 250-300 watts RMS or you could damage it.

Yes, and many of these parts are becoming difficult (or impossible) to source because the manufacturers are discontinuing them. 4 ohms is what I would recommend as a safe minimum load.