agedhorse

Knob position has nothing to do with how much power is being delivered. This misunderstanding may be part of the problem. is the clip LED indicating input/preamp clipping or power amp clipping?

Cosmetic copy, features copy, intended to look like a Streamliner but an entirely different circuit.

Too much reading DIY service posts on the internet?

There is a line level aux in, no effects loop. The owner’s manual with block diagram is available on the website.

Since this came up on the TB forum also, let me provide the answer that I provided there. On the Pre-DI, there's a LOT more going on internally so the left to right signal flow matching the left to right feature architecture which makes more sense, otherwise every signal would have to cross over at least once and in some cases twice. This applies to both the jacks and the controls working together with the signal path rather than against it. As the gain increases (there's over 40dB of available gain), and as the number of amplification stages increases, the opportunities for noise and cross talk multiply exponentially. This is why ALL consoles and channel strips follow this format... the jacks in the same order as the controls and the controls in the same order as the signal flow for performance. This is a very quiet pedal compared with the average pedal. In another life, I designed pro audio consoles, and Genz Benz (Jeff's earlier company) started out as a pro audio company, and the designer of this product (Scott) is also a pro audio guy as well as an accomplished bass player. I was only responsible for most of the mechanical and PCB layout on this pedal. Since these are top mount jacks, it doesn't really matter from a wiring perspective as it does with side mount jacks (which I do not care for, especially) when there are more than 2 jacks).

I would suggest cleaning up the wiring and whatever crossover it’s supposed to have back to factory condition and listen to it before assuming anything. You might be pleasantly surprised.

Basic electrical engineering absolutely links voltage to power. Since (solid state) amps are generally considered an ideal voltage source, it’s also an ideal power source. While a speaker has a reactive component, when the capacitive and inductive regions are averaged out with the DCR of the speaker, the net result is an average or nominal impedance. The amp must provide voltage x current to drive this load which is power. In the inductive regions the current lags voltage and in the capacitive regions the current leads voltage. Regardless of phase angle, the amp must be able to deliver both voltage and current, this is something an experienced power amplifier designer has to deal with. A 500 watt, 4 ohm single driver compared to a 300 watt 8 ohm driver is likely to have a lower sensitivity, quite possibility 3dB lower, which would make the 8 ohm speaker (slightly) louder at 300 watts than the 4 ohm speaker at 500 watts.

Have you confirmed (beyond any doubt) that the problem is actually with the amp? I see a fair number of claimed problems end up being misdiagnosed as an amp problem when in fact it ended up being something else.

At a high enough voltage, wounds become self-cauterizing… The main tradeoff with bleeders is the loss of efficiency as voltage increases. This is an import consideration in small Switchmode power supplies meeting the EU’s eco-directive.

With the battery examples, the amount of current delivered to the load is a function of the open circuit voltage the internal resistance of the battery, and the resistance of the load (which in this case is 0 ohms). The 12V car battery has an internal resistance of about 0.02 ohms, the 9v battery has an internal resistance of ~5 ohm. It's not the capacity, but the internal resistance that limits the current. Generally, higher capacity batteries rated for higher discharge rates have lower internal resistance. The current delivered to the short circuited 12V battery would be 12V/.02 ohm = 600A The current delivered to the short circuited 9V battery would be 9V/5 ohm = 1.8A Some folks are more tolerant to getting shocked, but some are not tolerant at all. Because of this variability, the safety recommendations are absolutely valid and are also "best practice" in the service field. While bleeder resistors are required for all amps with an IEC60065 or IEC62368 safety rating, a wise and experienced service tech will ALWAYS verify that there is no voltage present before attempting service. Do you know what the biggest danger from shock is? It's either falling off of a ladder (in the power field) or getting knocked off your stool as the amp falls on you after you react to the shock. Once you have a tube amp fall on you, you may wish you were dead.

It's the voltage across the body resistance that causes the current to flow. 450 volts can easily cause enough current to flow through the body to kill (if you are moderately unlucky). The power supply has plenty of current available (>100mA) so yes, it is dangerous. Since this is a newer version (designed by Matt Wilkins, he worked under the VP of R&D at the time who was a good friend) which is safety approved to IEC 60065, there are bleeder resistors within the power supply that will safely discharge the power supply when power is removed regardless of the position of the standby switch (I verified this, it applies to all factory stock Fender Bassman 300's). This doesn't mean that the bleeders haven't been damaged, or some hack tech removed them because of some cool trick they heard about on the internet, so a professional tech will ALWAYS verify that the voltage has been discharged before doing any work. No, please don't do this, it's a common cause of additional damage to amplifiers. It's probably the quickest way to ruin a set of pots, and likely not the cause of the original problems anyway. When I was working for Fender, I saw the results of "magic cure-all spray" and is always cost the customers more (and if the amp was under warranty, this damage was not covered). The authorized service centers hated working on such amps because there was so much to clean up after.

Read the manual and learn how it works before you damage something.

I think you will find that the smaller the box and the greater the expectations, the more difficult and expensive the project will be. The advantage of buying already well designed speakers is that the while you are paying for the designer's experience and knowledge, you are also indirectly paying for a number of prototype builds that may have been much poorer and "scrap worthy" than the finished product. Respectfully, I understand the desire to build your own, but you are comparing to a very high quality and expensive speaker. As a professional designer, I know how hard it is to get results like that without churning through 6 or 8 prototypes, and the cost of custom drivers also. Stock drivers are not intended for this type of product, which is why custom drivers are used. My coworker is the engineer who designed the entire KRK monitor line, I know how much work that was to extract that much performance in such a small, reasonably cost effective package.

I disagree, an accident or momentary lapse of good judgement will put the 4 ohm cabinet at greater risk. This doesn’t mean you CAN’T damage the 8 ohm cabinet but it will be much harder to do.

No, this is not true. Overpowering is by far the greatest cause of speaker failure. Power (watts) is absolutely correct in describing power handling, once you understand what it means. In this case, the “myth” that a 4 ohm cabinet will draw more power from the amp is absolutely correct for virtually all solid state amps as they are turned up. To the OP’s question, the 8 ohm 210 is a MUCH better and safer choice with no downside and many upsides.

Start here with the owner'smanual: https://manualsbrain.com/en/manuals/1111847/

The MOSFET preaamp version appears to be based around Ampeg products, I'll let you guys determine the basis of the tube preamp model...

You make some good points, yes we do stand on the shoulders of those earlier designers but while we are doing so, most of us are careful (respectful) not to stomp on their heads. I have talked with other designers (including one who was responsible for some of the Peavey class D designs) about the ethics of (and the differences between) learning from other designers and simply copying. Most designers have surprisingly high morals and take pride in developing new approaches while refining long standing circuits to improve performance and reliability. There's general agreement among designers that the customer will accept a "cheap copy" if the price is low enough. The pedal world is a good example of blatant copying (including PCBs). If there's enough of this, it will affect those companies that are currently bringing new approaches and new ideas to the players, ultimately the investment required to develop innovative new products will dry up and many new ideas simply won't make it to market.

Cosmetic, materials, layout plus feature set, even down to the fonts and legend on the back panel. If it wasn't intentional, it's an unbelievable coincidence... The Benz is actually a play on the word "bins", which was the term used here in the states to describe bass cabinets... bass bins, which comes from the fact that Genz Benz originally stated as a pro audio cabinet and rack company. I started out designing pro audio products for Jeff, then we branched out to bass cabinets and later amplifiers. The Genz part is obviously from Jeff's last name, and was also a nickname. What are bass bins? The term 'bass bin' was used primarily in pro-sound before the advent of sub woofers to denote the cabs used to handle the lowest frequencies, down to 40Hz or so.Sep 6, 2012 (from Google)

Adjustable input sensitivity isn't going to matter with the Avalon, it's MOL is +30dBu which will drive every power amp I have ever seen with loads of headroom to spare.

For that console, mic level will probably be more appropriate.

Do you have the TS parameters for the drivers used in the cabinet, or did you assume that they were stock drivers (which they likely are not, even if they look like it)

First, I am assuming that you man ShuttleMax 9.2 since there was not a 6.2 model in the Shuttlemax series. If it's a Shuttle 6.2, let me know and I will get you a copy of the correct manual. It depends on what you are trying to do. Line level is fine IF the console that you will be feeding is capable of handling line level (most pro consoles will have no problem), but if not you can switch to mic level (which is about 20dB lower) The controls only affect the DI when switched to post-eq mode. I have attached a copy of the owner's manual, there is all the info you need about how the DI section works. ShuttleMax 9.2 Owners manual.pdf

That's a pretty early build, before they started using ICEpower modules. You are probably going to have to find somebody qualified to reverse-engineer the power supply to determine what's really needed to be reliable. So far, you have succeeded in discovering a couple of ways it doesn't work... Does anybody know how many of these amps might have been built? This may explain why there are no spare parts available.

I have designed all kinds of products over my career, mostly pro audio and bass products, but some acoustic and electric guitar products too. This includes both high end touring electronics/speakers as well as lower end electronics/speakers (including for some popular brands/models). I first look at the requirements, both performance and cost, and then look to see what components are already on the market that I might be able to use or easily adapt into the enclosure that the product will need. I will also look at my historical designs to see if I have already designed a driver that might be suitable. I really don't like reinventing the wheel, especially at the higher end where the transducer engineers have spent a fair amount of time and money on. That said, I probably put more energy into the lesser models because I NEED to squeeze out the most performance possible for the least cost. This is true in all product lines actually. I find it more challenging to get the maximum performance out of the minimum cost, that's what separates the experienced engineers from the onanists. In the middle, giving up a dB or two of performance may not matter as much but at the low end every dB counts, and may be the difference in a viable product and one that's not. At the very high end, there's a LOT more effort placed on pattern control, the evenness of the response at the edge of the pattern, distortion, power compression (thermal and electromagnetic), and also structural since the cabinets may end up over your heads.