agedhorse

Actually, Bill’s correct on this. This example has nothing to do with clipping (in this universe anyway)

Yes, and so do I Bill, but you already know this.

A HPF can certainly help by reducing the level where the cabinet is most vulnerable to mechanical damage. A compressor might also help, but too much compression increases the average thermal power which may place the cabinet at risk due to increased thermal power. With compression, a little can go a long way.

You may disagree with my comments about the 1/8-rated power designation for labeling, but it’s fact not opinion. Its part of every global safety regulation and in order to legally place the CE mark under the CB scheme regulations, the power consumption that’s on the label must be the minimum of 1/8-rated audio power or higher IF the manufacturer intends for the amp to be used at higher average duty cycles. Every product that complies with CB scheme (IEC 60065 or 62368 with national differences) is required to be marked in this way. I do this regulatory stuff every day as part of my design work.

No, that is not what it means. That is the power that is drawn by the amp at 1/8-rated audio power in rms metrics, into the minimum rated load. It's a minimum labeling requirement by the global safety regulations (assuming that it does comply with IEC 62368-1. The actual amount drawn can't exceed 200 watts but may in fact be less to account for any duty cycle additions beyond 12.5% that the manufacturer wishes to address. It's fairly easy to take that power consumption number and calculate the approximate rated audio power... Since the average efficiency of a SMPS + class D amplifier is 85%, take 800 watts RMS, multiply it by 0.125 and divide the result by 85% and this number must be less than 200W. (800 x .125)/.85 = 118W which is less than 200W. Now is this amp a good idea for a 200 watt/4 ohm speaker? It's perfectly fine as long as you don't have an accident, have a lapse in good judgement or have unrealistic expectations of the speaker's capabilities. It's one reason why we see blown speakers, nobody's perfect.

I haven’t heard this, my understanding is that Mesa gear will be there for the opening. I’m not directly involved with the marketing side, especially international marketing, so things may have changed related to the construction or the phasing in of the brands owned beyond Gibson branded products themselves. I will ask and see if I can get updated info.

Yeah, sometimes it happens that way. Maybe a bad solder joint, maybe it was simply a bad connection that was corrected as a byproduct of the repair. Since there were thousands (6227 to be exact) amps built with those values without a problem, it should be obvious that it wasn't a problem. They don't have to be the same values as Marshall used, why would the?

The values of the components had nothing to do with your problem, it’s not a Marshall amp. The fix was just a lucky byproduct of the “repair”.

Correct, this newer format was also used on some other bass products too (though not identical). There may have been other differences as well to the way the logic was handled. I don’t have the docs for the later one handy. I would look for the correct footswitch rather than attempting to modify the 5 function one.

Do the two foot switches say M-Pulse? Do they have the same number of pins on the DIN connector?

Try the valve before screwing with anything else. I don’t recall if all M-Pulse models used the same foot switch or if there were differences. I will look to see if I can find the info, but don’t attempt to bodge something together because the switching system could be damaged by an incorrect connection. This was from an era when a lot of changes were happening to our entire switching protocols (including guitar amps).

Almost certainly the valve with the white getter coating.

Solder is lead free. Note that it’s a custom bushing diameter. The correct part is available from the factory. I haven’t heard how the follow-up service network will be implemented yet. I will post the information when it becomes available.

There are quite a few possibilities, but by far the most common cause is the amp falling on its face. We are in the process of setting up a new service network throughout Europe, including several in the UK. The factory is closed for the holidays, but I can contact one of my coworkers to find a service solution for you. You can message me and I will get you the info.

Just a general note… never use anything abrasive on these jacks, the plating is microns thick.

Correct

Don’t give it a wallop, only the tiniest amount possible or you can create new problems when the “cleaner” gets into places it doesn’t belong.

Power quality varies in the US just the same as in the EU and UK. For an audio product to be compliant to the IEC 62368 standard (Europe), it must be able to operate at the nominal voltage +/-10%. In the UK, the mains voltage is officially 230V +10/-6% which makes the legacy 240V harmonize with the EU’s 230V +/-10%. The required high line testing, if the product is approved for 240V markets (like AU/NZ) is 264V. If limited to 230V markets it would be 253V.

Power conditioners are in general, non-solutions to problems that need to be correctly fixed, and also are markets to extract the most money possible from purchasers.

No, it’s part of the 115V/230V configuration circuitry. Hook the 115V version up to 230V and the power supply will fail spectacularly. There may be other differences in addition to the jumper(s), so be aware of this before making any assumptions.

Good grief, if you don’t know what you’re doing, leave it alone!!! The 115 refers to the line voltage configuration of the SMPS, not the speaker model. To the comment about SMPS being too noisy for audio applications, look around at the highest quality audio applications and you will see SMPS. Limited experience results in limited knowledge.

I haven't seen any noise complaints form these pedals. That said, power supply noise can be an issue with pedals in general, because most of them use switchmode power supplies plus switching regulators, so under some conditions there could be noise generated from the interaction of 2 or more switching frequencies. Also, if there are pedals in front of the preamp, this can also introduce noise.

I see mode amps damaged by failed service attempts (where the problem actually had nothing do do with the amp) than amps that are just left alone. If it's working properly, leave it alone (IMO and IME).

3 different tone families. The D-800+ is the most neutral of the three, and if you are looking for a simple, straight ahead bass amp, it's the easiest to get along with. The WD-800 is modeled after the old Walkabout , it is native voicing is that tone and also that feel in varying degrees. It also has more extensive EQ and a damping factor selector. The TT-800 is a 2 channel amp and is modeled after the Subway D-800+ voicing on the Subway channel and the Bass 400+ on the Boogie channel. The Boogie channel is pretty significantly voiced, the Subway channel is more neutral. Both the WD and TT use tube preamps.

Yes, of course in this case it’s fine but the GP-11 pre was used in in many other amp models too, and that wasn’t clear from the original post. This was a common mistake made when customers were asking for manufacturer support… the first question was always “stand alone preamp or one of the amp models with the GP-11 preamp”?