Mottlefeeder
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Everything posted by Mottlefeeder
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Unless you have a speakon/jack socket in which case the 4-pole will physically fit and make contact with +1 & -1. David
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Behringer Powerplay P2 to Balanced Out - Which XLR Cable?
Mottlefeeder replied to FretsOnFire's topic in Accessories and Misc
Unfortunately I'm wrong - I confused the P2 with the P1. The P2 has one XLR, so in mono, connect it with a standard female to male XLR to a mixer output and you will have a balanced mono mix. For stereo you will need an adaptor to convert two mixer balanced output XLRs into unbalanced feeds that you can then connect (via a two core plus earth mic type cable) to the pins of the XLR feediing the P2 . I don't know if that is available off the shelf, but a simpler option might be to use a TRS jack to XLR male cable and plug it into the mixer headphone socket. David PS sorry for the misdirection. -
Behringer Powerplay P2 to Balanced Out - Which XLR Cable?
Mottlefeeder replied to FretsOnFire's topic in Accessories and Misc
The mixer output to the P2 input follow the same rules as the microphone output to the mixer input, so a standard male to female XLR do the job. For stereo to your P2, you will need two mic cables and a left and a right output from the mixer. David -
Yes, but I never knew she played bass, so thanks for that. David
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Thanks for the clarification. I shall stop trying to calculate the difference in volume caused by the port wall increasing from 2mm to 12mm! David
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Phil, Just for my education: changing the port size changes the available internal volume of the cab - what sort of % change in cab volume would start to be audible / ring alarm bells for you? (Another) David
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No worries. Mine works fine with my Android phone, but I was just checking out other options. David
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Hi Phil, Can you clarify whether you downloaded an Android playpen to run the mixer app on your desktop, and if so, what did you use? Thanks David
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Possibly because 'front' grain and end grain take common finishes differently, so by hiding the transition, they can use a cheaper finish. David
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Hi Rob, If these are still available I'd like them please. I'm about to start my own BC 8 build. David
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I've quit facebook so that I spend more time here!
Mottlefeeder replied to joe_geezer's topic in General Discussion
Alternatively, someone is trying to set up a new account using your data stolen from somewhere else. Check for evidence of any of your passwords being compromised. David -
The change of grain direction from 'in-line' to 'end grain' on a rounded edge would ensure a non even take up of finish. I doubt that you would need a contrasting colour. David
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I had been playing BEADG fives when I decided to try fretless. I started with a borrowed BEAD four to see how I got on and the band almost immediately added 'Crazy little thing called love' to the set list. That triggered a rethink and I quickly moved on to a BEADG five fretless. Unfortunately I found it was not for me, and I now only play fretted fives. David
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Finger joints and dovetail joints instead of battens along the edge should make a stronger, lighter joint, but makes each panel larger before machining and therefore more expensive. Using solid wood instead of ply would probably not be as stiff, and possibly prone to cracking as the tenperature/humidity changed. David
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That sounds promising. Also some reviewers comment on the good sound, but do not define what process they were doing when they thought that. I think I may pull the trigger on one and run my own subjective tests. David
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Hi Phil, I think, about a year or so ago, you commented that the D-A/A-D on cheaper mixers was noticeably inferior to that on dedicated interface units. Where do you feel the Flow 8 sits on that line? I have the option of 'upgrading' to a Flow 8, or connecting my analogue Alto ZMX862 with my Steinberg UR22C interface to achieve the same functionality, so I'd value your (and anyone else's) feedback. David
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I can't see a problem, assuming he doesn't turn up his mids and you don't turn up your deep bass. On the upside, your cab on top of his would give you a monitor closer to your ears. David
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Rereading your original post, I think there is still some confusion here. In imperial measurements, the common headphone jack diameters are 1/4 inches and 1/8 inches. In metric, that would be 6.35mm and 3.5mm. When you talk about 1/2 inch jacks, and buying a convertor 'from 4.4mm to 3.5mm (1/4")', I wonder if you are confusing the imperial and metric equivalents and searching for the wrong adaptor? David
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The common jack plug sizes for headphones were 1/4 inch (6.35mm) originally for hifi, and 3.5mm (USA 1/8 inch) for Walkmans and similar small gear. Both of these were tip/ring/sleeve (TRS) giving connections for left/right/common ground. A quick google search suggests that the 4.4mm connector appears to be mainly aimed at headphone connectors where the user needs to keep the left and right return conductors separate, so it is a TRRS, but connected differently to phones' 3.5mm mic and earphone headset TRRS. This may be why they went for a different size. Just guessing. David
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My first foray into 5-string basses was a Cort Curbow, but I quickly took it back and exchanged it for a Yamaha RBX 765 (which I still have, about 25 years later). The problem I heard was booming bass through a Fender 100 watt 15" combo amp, but your assessment of missing mids from the bass (and the speaker) makes much more sense. Enjoy. David
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The 5.5mm is Xmax not Xlim. The first is the excursion while staying in the magnetic gap (ie controlled and low distortion), and the second is the excursion to the point of damage. Your speaker cone is capable of moving way beyond Xmax. David
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The apparent downside to Markbass amps is the agency they use for servicing. I read enough bad feeling on here that I crossed them off my list of possible upgrades. David
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By the way, welcome to the forum. David
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The red jack socket below the DI is the speaker output. As Bill says, you will need a jack to speakon lead to connect your amp to that speaker. David
