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Mottlefeeder

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Everything posted by Mottlefeeder

  1. I use a Snark clip-on, and it is sensitive to position. At the end of the headstock, it loses the B and the E, unless you press the transducer hard against the headstock, then it picks it up. Alternatiely, moving it closer to the nut works, but may get in the way when you need to get to a tuning head. I also have a headless bass tuned BEAD, and the Snark works fine clipped onto the volume control knob. David
  2. Many years ago I stripped the varnish off an old chair leg as I repaired it, then tinted it with a mix of brown and black shoe polish to bring it close to the original colour, and then I revarnished it with a clear varnish. Yes it works, providing the wood surface is not sealed, and provided that you seal it afterwards. David
  3. Just to echo all the comments above, I had a great day, and I'm very grateful to Chris and Kevin for setting it up. It was interesting to try / hear things I had only read about, but nice that I came away without feeling that anything there would make a significant difference to my bass playing. When first I arrived, I walked into the main bar area, and the bar-person and security person conferred and told me that there was no bass-players' event on that day. Fortunately, I stuck around and eventually found another entrance with a B/chat notice on it. For anyone who sets up another bass bash, may I suggest that a contact mobile number is PM'd to all delegates for use in emergencies. David
  4. [quote name='i81b4u-ou812' timestamp='1486672132' post='3233775'] Hi guys, is this still going ahead? [/quote] As far as I know. There was one planned for March that has just been cancelled - that may be what you heard about. David
  5. [quote name='BassApprentice' timestamp='1486569517' post='3232878'] Side note. What are peoples experience with steel strings on U basses? Is it worth just sticking with the rubber(y) ones? [/quote] As far as I am aware, the only metal strings that fit a 20-22 inch scale are the Pyramid ones mentioned above. David
  6. I have the Countryman with Thundergut strings, but I found I was getting confused switching between that and a 5-string bass, so I bought a 5-string set for the U-bass and strung it BEAD (The 5-string set is intended for a 23 inch neck, so it may not work on the 20 inch Kala. The Countryman is a 22 inch neck, so in proportional terms the string tension is equivalent to an E string in drop D tuning). The Countryman was £150, and has a 3-band eq and tuner built in. The cheapest Kala was £250, and had volume and tone, and no tuner. I use it for open mic nights, and as a space-saver spare for gigs, and I'm bringing it to the NW Bass Bass if anyone wants to try it. David
  7. [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][b]1. Funkgod[/b] -[/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Wal , [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Goodfellow classic (86/7 number 42, one of bernies kirtchen table ones)[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]G&L L2000E (a very rare 1980), [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Mucicman sabre '79, [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Fender jazz fotoflame, [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Fender Jazz in metalic burnt tangereen,,,, [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif],[/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] HK 6 string fretless Amazing value for money.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Swr red head, 2x10 combo, [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Swr red head 2x10 combo with swr 2x10 ext cab, [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Swr SM500 pro, [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Swr 6x10 Goliath.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][b]2. Lurksalot [/b]- Spector Euro4 , Spector Legend4, TC RH750 , TC RS212 & RS210[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][b]3. MrZed[/b] - [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Musicman 25th Anniversary and Stingray HH along with my Genz Benz STL9.0 and Berg HD210's [/font][/color] [b]4. Les [/b][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]- '79 Stingray, '78 Sabre, '68 Mustang[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][b]5. ChunkyMunky[/b] - Musicman Bongo 5HH, Another Musicman, Genz Benz Shuttle 12.0, cabinet (Probably a Berg or Barefaced)[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][b]6. Josie[/b] - probablqy three GMRs (two 5s and a fretless 4) (and/or two non-standard Fender Jazzes - how to decide? [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]) and definitely cake.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][b]7. Vinny - [/b]BB-1X, Smooth Hound[/font][/color] [b]8. Musicman20 -[/b] [b]9. MisterT - [/b][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Sterling SB14, Eden WTX500, Vanderkley 112MNT x1, only 2 pedals of note: BeatBuddy & Pigtronix Envelope Phaser.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][b]10. JellyKnees[/b] - Dingwall ABZ5, Tune Maniac fretless, Barefaced BigOne, [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Markbass Little Mark Tube 500[/font][/color] [b]11. ead[/b][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] - Some ACGs, maybe something else too if I have an interesting bass knocking about, Gen 2 (I think) Barefaced Compact and Midget, GB Streamliner 600[/font][/color] [b]12. ribbetingfrog - [/b][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif](only have one bass so that'l be an easy choice) [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][b]13.[/b] [b]Bassman Sam.[/b][/font][/color] [b]14. AndyTravis - [/b][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]original batwing Aria SB-1000 to bring, a heavily modded Nate Mendel Fender. [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Contenders also include a graphite necked peavey 5 and a few pedals. Ashdown [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]rootmaster evo 800 rig.[/font][/color] [b]15. Bass Culture[/b][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] - Zoot Custom Medium scale & possibly Zoot Custom fretless. RH750 & Barefaced BB2 if needed.[/font][/color] [color=#000000][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828][b]16. BigLump [/b]- “real basses”! :-)[/color][/font][/color] [color=#000000][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828][b]17. Zootchaser[/b] - Zoot Iceni bass, Reidmar head[/color][/font][/color] [color=#000000][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828][b]18. afterimage[/b][/color][/font][/color] [color=#000000][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828][b]19. tommorichards[/b] - [/color][color=#282828]Ampeg svt cl w/ 810 fridge, maybe my marshall vba400 if it fits, '76 4001 rick, modded, 4004 rick, fender jazz w/ flats and 62 style pots, gibson explorer bass, moonshine gretsch bitsa bass[/color][/font][/color] [color=#000000][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828][b]20. Skol303[/b] - [/color][color=#282828]"idiot's guide to home recording[/color][color=#282828]”[/color][/font][/color] [color=#000000][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828][b]21. Mr H[/b] - Fret King Esprit, Charvel Model 2B x2, Peavey Cirrus BXP 5-er, something else to fill the rack, maybe EBS Reidmar 250 with 1x10 cab[/color][/font][/color] [color=#000000][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828][b]22. Owen[/b] - Shuker, Shuker/Firecreek, Shuker/Godfellow (prob for sale), Jule Monique and Berg IP310.[/color][/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] [/font][/color] [color=#000000][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828][b]23. kevvo66[/b] - basses and maybe a rig or two. Schroeder mini cabs, gk mb800 amp and maybe my phill jones cab [/color][/font][/color] [b]24 AdamWoodBass[/b] [b]25 Mottlefeeder - [/b][color=#000000][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828]2 x Jack 10s, 2 x home-brew 10 cabs, 5-string acoustic bass (Ibanez EWB205), Bass-Uke tuned BEAD & variable high-pass and low-pass filters.[/color][/font][/color]
  8. [quote name='stevie' timestamp='1486459294' post='3231866'] ...David, PU glue is great when you don't have accurate joints and need to fill gaps, but these braces really do need to be pressed very tightly to the cabinet panels for optimal effect. If there is a slight gap because the brace (or shelf) hasn't been cut correctly or fixed down tightly, it won't work properly. While the gap-filling properties of polyurethene will prevent vibration if the joint isn't perfect, you really don't want any gaps at all. The damping effect of attaching bracing comes more from stiffening the panels than any properties of the glue. In fact, you can hear the effect of the brace just by pressing it tightly on the panel without gluing - which is how I arrived at the positioning of the bracing for this box. [/quote] OK thanks for that. David
  9. [quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1486160392' post='3229824'] I've used both softwood and ply to brace my builds, but always rebated into the panel. My 'test' was far less scientific than Stevie with his test tones, but I found that whilst ply 'on edge' added a lot of rigidity to the panel, the softwood wasn't far behind and it definitely had a damping effect which i guess is because the softwood would have a different natural frequency to the ply. [/quote] I've braced my cabs with plywood shelves, but used a foaming polyurethane glue, as recommended by Bill Fitzmaurice to ensure airtight joints - is that likely to provide more damping than a solid 'resin W' type glue joint? David
  10. If it's not too late, please add me to the list of attendees. I'll be bringing: 2 x Jack 10s, 2 x home-brew 10 cabs, 5-string acoustic bass (Ibanez EW205), Bass Uke tuned BEAD & variable high-pass and low-pass filters. Notes... Home brew cabs detailed here http://basschat.co.uk/topic/295833-thoughts-on-cab-build-for-basslites-s2010/page__fromsearch__1 High pass filters are an op-amp equivalent to the Fdeck design David
  11. [quote name='Phil-osopher10' timestamp='1480697533' post='3186565'] Interesting, is it a more neutral sound than the jack's? Also how heavy were the jack's? [/quote] The Jacks go lower, and have a mid-range hump, so without EQ they can sound a bit 'cardboard box' like. With EQ they sound good, and are louder than a straight reflex enclosure - but you pay for that with the increased size. New reflex cab sitting on a Jack 10. [url="http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Mottlefeeder/media/DSCF1506_zpsybjeoq43.jpg.html"][/url] By removing the lowest 'muddy' octave, but having a strong output just above that, my reflex boxes sound punchier, but still have enough lows to vibrate the floorboards. The mids are smooth enough that flat-wound strings on an ABG sound good without the need for a tweeter. Unfortunately I don't have a weight for the Jack 10 with S2010. David
  12. [quote name='Phil-osopher10' timestamp='1480516173' post='3185029'] What's the finished product like? How does it sound? It looks like a great job [/quote] The complete speaker weighs about 7 kg, so it is an easy load in, whether it is from the carpark to the stage, or parking a street away from the pub. Also, it's small enough that you don't have a problem getting through doors, and the small footprint makes it easy to find space for it. How does it sound - well I'm obviously very biased, but it does what I wanted, very well. I play mainly acoustic bass guitar and it sounds natural with that, with both bass- and amp-EQ set level. It is loud enough to keep up with acoustic guitars going through the PA. Having decided that I preferred it to the sound of my Jack 10s, I've taken the driver out of the other Jack 10 and built a second one of these, and the pair are greater than the sum of the parts - as well as being louder, the bass goes deeper, I recently took a bass, both cabs and a 12 +12 watt battery-powered amp into central Manchester by tram and spent the day busking - everything else went through the PA, but that rig was all that I needed. You probably would not contemplate doing that with most commercial amplifiers/speaker combinations. Hope that helps David
  13. Bill gives the dimensions of the Simplex 10 as 18 x 16.5 x 14 inches, which is not exactly small. Also, if you model an S2010 in that size of enclosure (about 1.8 cu ft when you allow for the wood thickness and the grill clearance), the power handling is quite poor - 80 watts at about 70Hz with a 58Hz port, or 60 watts at about 70 Hz with a 40Hz port. I went for a smaller box that does not go as deep, but handles more power; Bill has gone for a larger box to give better bottom end, but the trade-off is the power handling. David
  14. [quote name='lefrash' timestamp='1480442553' post='3184467'] ...Do you mind me nicking the plans? ... Fraser [/quote] No problem at all. If there is anything missing, let me know - e.g.foam/wadding I used 1 inch foam from a scrapped hifi speaker for my first cab, and 1.5 inches of wadding in the second cab. - They both sound good. David
  15. Firstly, an apology - I pulled up the wrong WinISD file, so in my last post, the box volume and tuning frequenies are wrong - they came from another version. [u]The background[/u] I seemed to be playing mostly in rooms full of acoustic players, and a pair of Jack 10s (20 x 15 x 16 inches each) would have been a little intrusive. My Hartke Kickback 10 sounded good, but weighed too much for a long walk from the carpark, so I decided to try making a smaller box that I could sit on, using an Eminence Basslite S2010 from one of the Jacks. A bassist on the US Talkbass (Fdeck) has a DIY section on his website, and talks about making smaller boxes because he does not need extreme bass, so my starting point was to try and find out what my upper limit was for falling bass response. Using the variable-frequency high-pass filter in a Fishman preamp, and double checking with another one on my graphic EQ, I came to the conclusion that I could live with a -3dB point of 65-70 Hz, but any higher than that sounded distinctly bass-lite. Fdeck suggests tuning the port to suit the lowest note you want to play, then varying the box size to give you the low frequency cut-off that you want. I modelled the box in WinISD - a speaker design program. Unfortunately, with this speaker, tuning the box to accommodate a 30Hz lowest note gives a gently falling bass response that starts at about 150Hz. I built one, and did not like the sound. [u]The design[/u] Using WinISD I came up with a box size of 0.9 cu ft, with a shelf port tuned to 58Hz. This is similar to an Eminence published design from their website, [url="http://www.eminence.com/pdf/Basslite_S2010_cab.pdf"]http://www.eminence....e_S2010_cab.pdf[/url] but there is a risk of cone over-extension below 50Hz, so depending on what is played through it, it may need a high-pass filter or something similar. The attached screen shots are from WinISD Green = 0.9 cu ft enclosure; 58Hz tuning; no filter Grey = 0.9 cu ft enclosure; 58Hz tuning; 55Hz 12dB/Octave filter Red = 1.1 cu ft enclosure; 58Hz tuning; 55Hz 12dB/Octave filter Frequency response - the larger enclosure is louder between 50 and 100Hz, as expected [url="http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Mottlefeeder/media/Speaker%20response_zpsp9isiphu.jpg.html"][/url] Power handling - the larger box has worse power-handling in the 70-100Hz region [url="http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Mottlefeeder/media/Speaker%20power%20handling_zpsj2vu8ru2.jpg.html"][/url] Cone movement at 120W - without the filter, the cone excursion exceeds Xmax at about 50Hz. This means distorsion, but not damage. [url="http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Mottlefeeder/media/Speaker%20cone%20movement_zpsyld8w0x7.jpg.html"][/url] [u]The build[/u] The box was made from 12 inch wide 9mm ply, which I happened to have around, and the wall bracing was 4mm ply. Front and side section view [url="http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Mottlefeeder/media/DSCF1775_zpszgcmghya.jpg.html"][/url] I used polyurethane wood glue because it foams as it sets, giving a very strong and airtight join. The pictures show the build, but not the mounting ring behind the baffle - this was added later when I realised that the speaker would sit further forward than I expected. Also, the bracing rib was extended to the full length of the port shelf. I lined the inside with 1 inch foam from a scrapped hifi speaker for my first cab, and 1.5 inches of wadding in the second cab. - They both sound good. Do not put foam or wadding within 1.5 inches of the inside end of the port. Box without second side - apologies for the Guardian centre fold! [url="http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Mottlefeeder/media/DSCF0852_zps2082ac9e.jpg.html"][/url] Box compared with an Hartke Kickback 10 - now obsolete [url="http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Mottlefeeder/media/DSCF0854_zps276877b4.jpg.html"][/url] Modified baffle - the blocks on the back wall are the wells for a plate-amplifier fixing screws. [url="http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Mottlefeeder/media/DSCF0875_zpsd85388f5.jpg.html"][/url] Completed speaker box beside a battery-powered plate amplifier [url="http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Mottlefeeder/media/DSCF0972_zps22a94527.jpg.html"][/url] David
  16. I'm not sure how to upload drawings on this site, so I will probably have to photograph them and load them in as images. Meanwhile... I used WinISD to calculate the frequencies and volumes, and came out with a design somewhere between the two smaller Eminence designs. The box volume is 0.77 cu ft and the port is tuned to 63 Hz. This is a compromise - a bigger box could go lower, but it will handle less power before the speaker reaches its limits. In this design, the speaker will handle 100 Watts down to 50 Hz, and with a high pass filter set at 55Hz, it will handle 120W without going beyond Xmax. Since a bass guitar note is mainly a mix of fundamental and lower harmonics, and you do not normally hear much of the fundamental, designing it out gives you a smaller box, and few downsides. If that goes totally over your head, I'm playing a 5-string BEADG-tuned bass, using an amplifier that produces about 220 Watts into an 8 ohm speaker rated for 150 Watts, and you can feel the bass through the floor, even though the fundamental is being filtered out. Used without a filter, you need to listen for signs of distress, but it still goes pretty loud. The speaker box is based on a 12 inch wide piece of 9mm plywood. The top, back, bottom, port-shelf and baffle are all 12 inches wide, and the side panels are 12 inches deep. The external dimensions are 12 inches deep by 12.75 inches wide (12 inches plus two 9mm thicknesses) by 15.5 inches high. The port is 7.6 inches long, 12 inches wide, and 1 inch deep. The baffle is set back by 3/4 inch, and the grill is set back 3/8 inch. However, the speaker sealing ring is quite unyielding, and pushed the speaker further out towards the grill than I wanted it to be, so the speaker is mounted on plywood ring glued behind the baffle, so that its front edge is flush with the baffle front. - this will also help to stiffen the baffle. The top, bottom, port shelf and sides are braced with 2 inch wide 1/8 ply running front to back at their midpoints, and the back has a cross of bracing where the vertical and horizontal braces meet. Photographs of the build, and my sketches, to follow. David
  17. I went down this road a couple of years ago and have been very happy with the results. I'm happy for you to check them out - I'm based in Warrington if that is anywhere near you. [url="http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Mottlefeeder/media/DSCF0854_zps276877b4.jpg.html"][/url] This is the speaker cab beside the Hartke 10 - no longer in production. [url="http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Mottlefeeder/media/DSCF0972_zps22a94527.jpg.html"][/url] The finished speaker cab beside a 150w battery-powered amp, based on a car audio system. David
  18. I don't, but my build thread for a kit from guitar warehouse is here http://finnbass.com/showthread.php?t=10950 if that helps (Unfortunately the link will only work if you are a member on finnbass - the DIY forum is locked to visitors) David
  19. I'm not sure that you can get the sound of an acoustic bass using a solid body, so if that is important, you need to factor it in. Also, acoustic basses are lighter than solid basses, so if you do long sets, or have shoulder/neck problems, they can help. As commented by others, you will need an amp to accompany anything louder that a nylon-stringed guitar. I bought a 5-string acoustic bass and I rarely picked up the solid bass after that - it produced the sound I was looking for. David
  20. If you rarely go anywhere near the octave, you might be able to reprofile the bridge to give you better intonation where you actually play. This bridge is standard on the Countryman bass-uke. [url="http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Mottlefeeder/media/DSCF1446_zps437f5b92.jpg.html"][/url] David
  21. Mottlefeeder

    WeeUB

    Looking at the practical aspects, if the DB bridge is higher than the Uke bridge, and the DB fingoerboard is higher than the Uke fretboard/fingerboard, then you will need longer strings than you currently have - That's £20 before you even start making sawdust. Also, a DB pickup tends to be under one foot, so the under-bridge rod will give you much more body noise and much less string vibration signal, assuming that you can carve the DB bridge so that it makes contact with it. I'd suggest building up the thickness of the Uke fretboard/fingerboard with an appropriate wood of your choice, and then cutting it back to a radius that suits you. Replace the current bridge with a taller one, and cut it to suit the new fingerboard radius. David
  22. [quote name='roman_sub' timestamp='1470312364' post='3104994'] If anyone is interested, I found this UK-alternative (have to self-build though) [url="http://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/Power_Pump/p847124_11037989.aspx"]http://shop.pedalpar...4_11037989.aspx[/url] [/quote] This designer does not recommend its use on battery circuits - presumably it draws more current that other designs. David
  23. For £50 you could buy a reasonable sized 12 volt battery and an invertor to run a mains amp from that battery. Alternatively, you could buy a S/H car stereo amp on ebay and use that with your existing speakers (Before any of the nay-sayers start, major brand name car amplifier manufacturers have been building class AB ampliifiers powered by switch-mode power supplies for several years - many stereo 60w into 4 ohms per channel amplifiers can be bridged to provide about 150W into 4 ohms). Off the shelf battery powered bass systems are likely to be out of your budget. David
  24. So, to summarise, If you know the song, you can play by ear. If you can work out the key, you can think of the chord progression as I, II, II etc, and move it around at will. If you know your fretboard well enough, you can play each root based on its interval from the preceeding one, assuming that you start in the right place and do not lose your place. No-one has volunteered a strategy for quickly working out the key of a song. Any takers on the last point? David
  25. [quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1468057055' post='3088312'] ...If he has a capo, you aren't going to be following his hands for help... [/quote] I'm not sure that I fully agree with that - if you play in a fretboard cage, then by moving the cage up by the same number of frets as the capo, your root notes will match his/her chords. Unfortunately I can't do that fast enough on a chord by chord basis, and if I lose my position, I struggle to find it again. David
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