Mottlefeeder

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I'm not sure how many knobs we are talking about, but here are a few random thoughts - 1 - run a piece of masking tape across the knobs before you bag it. That should help to keep them in place. 2 - take the knobs off: tha shafts are less likely to turn. 3 - make a note of the settings, and include that as part of your load in/load out. E.g. put mains lead in, put speaker lead in, put instrument lead in, set knobs up, switch on. 4 - build a cardboard sleeve/lid and stick that over the knobs before you bag it. I'd be inclined to go for 4. Canibalise a corrugated cardboard carton, and glue it up with a hot-melt glue gun or something like that.

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='199351' date='May 15 2008, 10:17 AM']It would be, but then the cage nuts wouldn't fit...[/quote] I'm not sure what you read into that post, but to me it means: drill the amp to match where the cage nuts already are.

A bit of sheet metal bent down at the front and up at the back would hook onto the front of the speaker cab, and the back of the amp. You would need to make sure that the up and down flanges were sized not to obstruct anything they shouldn't.

[quote name='Ant' post='198824' date='May 14 2008, 03:47 PM']would they wash off?[/quote] For some reason I had pictured a varnished Maple fretboard, so the ink would not go into the wood. My mistake. On raw rosewood, you could use a pencil, and it would rub off quickly in the areas you play most (where you already know where to put your fingers), but not rub off so quickly in the dusty areas.

[quote name='Ant' post='198717' date='May 14 2008, 01:42 PM']if only it had lines - i'd be all over that. an unlined fretless is hell can you get them lined?[/quote] It may be a daft idea, but you could put lines on with a felt tipped pen, and then decide whether you still need them a few months down the road.

I just posted this on your previous thread - may save Dave some time. If you have just bought it, the best option would be to take it back and get the Cube 30, or whatever, as others have said. If that is not an option for you, looking at the amplifier block diagram, the headphone jack mutes the feed to the main amp, so an amp tech might be able to convert the headphone jack into an insert jack, giving you send, return and earth on a three pole jack. That assumes that the headphone amp is a standard op-amp, with enough current drive to power the headphones, in which case the block diagram probably mimics the circuit, and the mute switch is contained within the jack socket. It also assumes that the electronics are modular and some are common to the whole family of amplifiers, so the headphone socket is not embedded on the main motherboard. If it isn't modular, all bets are off. Incidentally, if you were planning to use it with an extension speaker, that may not provide you with any increase in volume. The amp is bridged, and when you plug in an extension speaker, it becomes un-bridged, so each speaker gets its own amp. In other words, if you start with 100 w into 8 ohms, and add another 8 ohm speaker, you get less power out of it, because each amplifier will then see 8 ohms whereas before, each amp saw 4 ohms (half of the single 8 ohms speaker).

If you have just bought it, the best option would be to take it back and get the Cube 30, or whatever, as others have said. If that is not an option for you, looking at the amplifier block diagram, the headphone jack mutes the feed to the main amp, so an amp tech might be able to convert the headphone jack into an insert jack, giving you send, return and earth on a three pole jack. That assumes that the headphone amp is a standard op-amp, with enough current drive to power the headphones, in which case the block diagram probably mimics the circuit, and the mute switch is contained within the jack socket. It also assumes that the electronics are modular and some are common to the whole family of amplifiers, so the headphone socket is not embedded on the main motherboard. If it isn't modular, all bets are off. Incidentally, if you were planning to use it with an extension speaker, that may not provide you with any increase in volume. The amp is bridged, and when you plug in an extension speaker, it becomes un-bridged, so each speaker gets its own amp. In other words, if you start with 100 w into 8 ohms, and add another 8 ohm speaker, you get less power out of it, because each amplifier will then see 8 ohms whereas before, each amp saw 4 ohms (half of the single 8 ohms speaker).

[quote name='BassInMyFace' post='197820' date='May 13 2008, 11:21 AM']i have just checked, the 30 does indeed have an aux in but guess what, the 100 doesnt. this is a giant ballache, anyone got any solutions?????????????????????[/quote] I'm not quite sure I understand what you want to do, but one possibility might be to use a small mixer instead of the 100 preamp, do your fx looping around that, and feed that into the 100 preanp/amp as the last element of the chain. Basic mixer or pedal preamp about £30?

[quote name='chardbass' post='196275' date='May 10 2008, 11:50 PM']Second Hand Pandora PXB? It might seem silly to spend the money but its a very good practice aid as it has rhythm patterns, a tuner and effects etc so it will be much more than a short cut to just hearing your bass.[/quote] A second hand Zoom 708 would give you all of that, but in a larger footpedal style, and it would be cheaper. Another alternative would be the Pocket Rock-it headphone amplifier - built into a box on the end of the jack-plug.

[quote name='jono b' post='196312' date='May 11 2008, 01:43 AM']I'm thinking about getting my gear covered against theft, breakdown etc. and I want to know what my options are. I'm currently looking at the Musicguard website and for the total amount of my gear (£1200-ish) I'm looking at £6.59 a month via Direct Debit, or £70 in one go. Clearly at that price it's pretty much a no-brainer, and that's including my gear being covered away from the 'insured location' (my house), in-vehicle and breakdown cover. Does anyone else use Musicguard, or what alternatives are there?[/quote] I don't play for money, so my gear is covered on my house contents all risks section, and on my car insurance during transport providing I list 'musician' as a second occupation. Obviously that won't suit everyone, but it's a cheap option for those it does suit.

[quote name='Macko1968' post='196215' date='May 10 2008, 08:31 PM']Just wondering who you buyers & sellers use to ship guitars? I know Parcelforce are cheap but their £150 maximum compensation limit makes them a no-go & the major couriers seem shockingly expensive.[/quote] Have you seen [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=5572&hl=couriers"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...amp;hl=couriers[/url] ?

[quote name='XB26354' post='193293' date='May 6 2008, 08:44 PM']...With regard to strap height, too high is even worse than too low, as it pushes the headstock (and therefore lowest frets) as far away from your fretting hand as is possible. A lower strap (with the body of the bass around the waist) allows you to angle the neck up towards you. This also puts a comfortable bend in the fretting arm and straightens the fretting wrist (ironically bringing the playing position a little closer to double bass).[/quote] Whilst I agree that you can pull the neck towards you if the body is lower, I have great difficulty in playing that way. I got rid of a bass because it was neck heavy, and I was not comfortable with that. YMMV, but it is a point worth considering.

[quote name='Pedro1020' post='194930' date='May 8 2008, 07:35 PM']Ok, well with the purchase of my 1986 Streamer, I feel it needs a wax. Rather than getting Warwick wax, whats a decent alternative?..if any..colron? :blush: Im quite a wax virgin. Oh yeah, I'll post up porn pics of my Two "W's" tomorrow Thanks in advance.[/quote] I used boiled linseed oil on the (wenge) neck, and Colron wax polish on the (bubinga) body. That was fine. Over on Talkbass, these was a thread where the consensus seemed to be anything that would feed the wood would do. One guy was using gun-stock oil.

[quote name='Merton' post='193741' date='May 7 2008, 12:02 PM']It's for new products only, it came into force in July 2006. Anything that's sold new in the EU from that date has to be compliant, no matter where it was built.[/quote] My understanding is that the above may not be strictly true. If you are refurbishing something, you may also have to update the old to comply with the new standards. This first came to light when organ builders discovered that they were expected to replace all the lead-soldered pipes in church organs if the refurbishment of the organ strayed over some threshold value or proportion. I'm not sure whether this has been resolved, and I am not tracking it, so my information should be treated as suspect until proven otherwise.

[quote name='NJE' post='191868' date='May 4 2008, 09:47 PM']I am really not having a huge amount of luck looking for a five string. I just got beaten to a G&L on the bay because windows decided to have a fit. I have another thread going enquiring about laklands, musicman etc but wanted to know about these german bad boys im seing around. Anyway, I have been slightly turned on by a Streamer 5 and was just wondering what the 5 string warwicks are like having only played a 4. Are the B-strings any good and what are the necks like on them? are they beefy affairs or quite slick. It is a bolt on and wenge neck so just interested to know what they are like. Looking to try one on tuesday but thought I would get a heads up first. What are peoples thoughts on Warwicks in general? Im looking for something different from my musicman. I look forward to hearing what everyone thinks. Cheers Nathan.[/quote] I have no experience of Streamers, but I had both 4- and 5-string Corvettes. The body size was the same on both, so when I went for the wider 5-string neck, (and a lighter swamp ash body) I ended up with a neck heavy bass. The B string was great, but the bridge was designed for a tapered string, so you are either limited in what you fit to it, or have to file out the slot that the string feeds through. Neither of these may be relevant to Streamers, but I have a feeling they will be.

[quote name='Oscar South' post='185694' date='Apr 26 2008, 02:01 AM']How hard would it be to make the opposite of one of these (high impedance to low) for use with piezo pickups?[/quote] Fdeck over on Talkbass has one on his web pages - PM sent

My experience with induction loops in our church is that hum-bucking pups are a major advantage, in that they reject any loop signals. On that basis, stay with the P bass unless your other bass is similarly equipped. Also, a passive bass with the volume at 0 will still pick up from the loop because of the way the volume control is wired. If you need to kill the volume between songs, do it with a pedal, or on the pre-amp. Finally, when I have played outdoors using a cheap power generator, I have found that the buzz increased when I took my hands off the strings - all my gear was checked and working - so you may find that you can lose some of the buzz by not putting the bass down between songs.

The Warwick wood sound is one most people either love or hate. However, the cheaper Rockbass series have a couple of fretless 5-stringers, and are conventional alder/maple/rosewood. They might be worth a look. I think there is also a 5-string fretless Dean and an Aria in, or close to, your price range. Another alternative that might be worth considering is to abandon the G-string and buy a 4-string fretless, tuned BEAD. That would give you more choice, and higher quality for the amount you want to spend.

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='185906' date='Apr 26 2008, 01:29 PM']Would that have been a NT 5 string Thumb destined for Flo? [/quote] No - a 4-string fretless Bubinga Corvette and a 5-string fretless Swamp-ash Corvette. My orignal post was about the 4-string, which went to a long serving menber of their forum, and the 5-string to a newby who posted in 'wanted'. He lives just down the road from me and paid cash when he collected.

I just sold a bass on the Warwick forum, half the cash up front, by bank transfer, half the cash on delivery, by bank transfer, and about 10 e-mails between us so we both knew what was going on. I would not feel comfortable with that kind of deal on ebay - perhaps I am over-cautious. David

Yesterday I Googled TRB1005F, and started phoning the suppliers whos names came up. Virtually all of the ones I was able to contact had no stock, but would order it in. The exception was the Bass Gallery, who had one in stock, were able to talk knowledgeably about that bass and its competitors, offered the bass at a good price, and got my business.

I phoned Mark at GAK, and they have no stock of TRB5FIIs, nor does he remember them ever having them. He contacted Yamaha UK who confirmed that they were discontinued, and no stock remained for the UK. I had also asked about the TRB1005F, so Mark got the story on that too. The fretted version ships in bulk, and can be found for £500. the fretless version is rare, (Yamaha UK have not seen one for the last 6 months) and Mark could sell me one for £600 (rrp £739). However, the lead time is currently 6 months. Based on the above, it sounds as if I need to find a good 2nd hand 5-string Yamaha, and pay to have it defretted. I could probably even buy a new TRB1005 and have it defretted and not be far over £600 total. And I thought I was sorted...

Thanks for these - its given me lots to think about. My existing RBX 765A is Alder/Maple/Rosewod, and that has never bothered me. The GAK description talks about a 1998 specification change, and the picture is a TRB5F (Mk I), so I think my first job is to contact them and confirm what it is they are selling. I've tried e-mailing them, and got a reply asking me to phone them!