
Mottlefeeder
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Everything posted by Mottlefeeder
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Can anyone fill in the gaps? Steinberg UR22C - yes SSL2 - no Focusrite - no Presonus - no Behringer - ? M-audio - ? Tascam - ? Others - ? Thanks David
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Interesting, and it would be good if there was a pc equivalent, but not so useful for live event monitoring. David
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Thanks for this David
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That's clear enough.
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Thank you - I shall cross that one off the list. Any comments on M-audio, Tascam, Focusrite, Behringer... David
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May I ask where you found the information about Class C amplifiers being used for audio? My Google searches only give me sites saying Class C is suitable for RF and tuned circuits, but not audio. David
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A question for any audio interface users in the community - what EQ facilities are built in to your audio interface? The Steinberg UR22C has digital signal processing built in so you can adjust compression and 3-band EQ while it is connected to a PC (with or without a DAW running at the time). When disconnected from the PC, it retains that EQ profile. The screenshot below shows what you can set up. The advantage for me as a hearing aid user is that I can set up an EQ profile that mimics my hearing aids, and then use the interface as a me-them monitor mixer feeding my IEMs. Is this facility commonly available, or have I just struck lucky in my choice of interface? David
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Just a thought, if you have LEDs working but no audio at all, it might be worth looking at the voltage doubler first. David
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That's all I've got, sorry. Having said that, the block diagram shows a fairly conventional set of 'blocks', so you could probably work out the circuit from the components in the vicinity of each i.c. David
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There is no circuit diagram available from the designer, and the double-sided PCB has been painted on both sides, so it would be difficult to trace the circuit from that. The instructions include a block diagram but that is all you get. I think I still have my build instructions; if so I can send you a copy. David
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Ideally, avoid making it a cube, and aim to have each internal dimension different to the others. The golden ratio (each side 2/3 of the next biggest?) probably doesn't work for a 2 x 10 in-line. David
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Coming in a little late, but I have hearing loss, use a 1 x 10 on the floor as my main rig (!), and have gone to IEMs. There are some small mixers out there that have a 3 band EQ. That gives you some scope for taking an ambient mic input and/or a feed from the pa, and a feed from your bass/bass amp, and putting the missing mids back in to be fed to your in-ears. Eg the Alto ZMX862. Some PC audio interfaces can also be used stand-alone and can EQ and limit 2 channels into headphones, eg the Steinberg UR22C MKII (There may still be one of these for sale here) David
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Copper is a good enough conductor of heat that you can solder a bridge across a join withiut damaging the wood/plastic underneath. David
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If it was a public space, it might have a hearing loop installed, which could be feeding magnetically to your bass's pick-ups. That could give you anything from hum through distortion to feedback. David
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With regard to the use of a linear volume pot, the manufacturer may have taken the option recommended by Rod Elliott and others, and used a resistor between the pot wiper and pot ground to convert the linear effect into a logarithmic one with a smoother characteristic than a cheap log pot would give you. David
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True - and mine does! I was not really thinking it through. David
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Agreed, but with a mixer you can just fade up an additional channel - you don't have to rewire the system to accomodate another music source. David
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One advantage of a mixer is that you can connect other sources to it, eg an mp3 player, and eq the sound from them. I use the eq to drop out the bass on tracks that I am working on - I could not do that with an interface without first importing the song onto the PC/Mac. David
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Hmm, a new take on pup guards...
Mottlefeeder replied to iconic's topic in eBay - Weird and Wonderful
It may just be the camera angle and the fact that you can only see half of the pup. This image looks better. David -
If it was me... You could start by taking the grill off and checking the cones for splits or tears in the surround. Next, assuming you have three hands, play bass through it while you press gently on each cone in turn, and each centre dome in turn, to see is you can identify the faulty unit. Next, take the speakers out or take the cab back or front off, and measure the resistance of each driver. The actual measurement probably dos not matter if you find one is significantly different to the others. Next- that's where I run out of ideas. David
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As an alternative to moving the neck strap-point to the left, you could try moving the bridge strap point to the left. Take the bridge strap end off the bass, thread a shoelace/bootlace through the strap keyhole and tie the 'lace ends to the existing strap buttons. Slide the moveable end of the strap towards the fixed end, and note the point where the bass sits right for you. Take the 'lace off, tie a loop in it to fix the position of the strap end and put it back on the bass. It's cheap, discreet, and removable if it doesn't work for you. David