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bloke_zero

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  1. Looking at the website it says 48mm - I'll verify with some calipers - hopefully this evening
  2. I think I set it standard fender, so 2.5mm - the photo angle got all weird when I was trying to avoid my shadow and stuff so it probably looks lower than it is.
  3. I love the amazing 1 page manual which could be futher sumarised as "Plug it in. Turn it up".
  4. Note, I had the neck material wrong - it’s roasted maple and pao ferrao. Thanks @benebass for the correction!
  5. I bought this from @benebass in 2020. It's a Warmoth neck and body with Gotoh tuners. The finish is sort of red sunburst - lovely in person. I think it was professionally finished, though I forget the details. It's beautiful but does show up scratches as you can see in the pictures. Check the pictures for condition! It plays well, hardly any fret wear. The neck is roasted maple with pao ferro fingerboard. It’s a lovely and solid piece of wood with nice grain. Comes with ash tray and geezer butler EMG p-picks with EMG passive loom. Feel free to ask questions. I paid £375 for it 4 years ago and that is what I'd like, though I'm open to offers! £25 postage or FREE COLLECTION, comes with case
  6. In my mind the the words resonant and resonance are distinct - for example lee sklar talks about trying to find a nice resonant body (see video linked below 3:25), which I would describe as light and with a more crystaline inner structure - you tap it and can hear it is resonant. An example is alder body vs a swamp ash body - the swamp ash is 'desirable' becuase it is lighter and stiffer, more resonant. The same principle applies to roasted maple neck - if you want it, you want it because it will be lighter, stiffer and more resonant. Whether any of that makes a difference is of course up to you. You are of course right to say resonance is a problem and causes a variety of issues.
  7. I'd go old Japanese as well. I know this isn't a popular idea, but when you say resonant body I think the wood ages and can become lighter and more crystalline over time making it more resonant. So an eighties J Fender or Squier
  8. Sorry yes, that is in the linked FS ad
  9. They might be, but then I'd have to cut the flightcase in half! I like the lateral thinking though!
  10. Necro thread revival - I've just been asked to quote for shipping my MM Cutlass to Australia, it looks like it's 10cm too long for standard shipping with DHL (max 120) and Pack and Post just quoted me £454.12 - anyone sent a bass down under for less? (Note I say 'bass', smaller packages are easier to send by standard couriers.)
  11. The tonal shifts introduced by the change in scale (i.e where the pickups sit in relation to the bridge) would be significant enough to rule this out for me - small changes in PU location make suprisingly large changes in tone - if you move the bridge towards the neck the pickups will both get a bit thinner and twangier. Maybe not a huge amount, might make no difference to you, but it's quite a big experiment!
  12. Mm, thanks! That kind of looks like the same model but a recent one. Yeah, not a sound I wish to pursue myself!
  13. Amazing synth in pretty bad shape. Plays well, you can load the presets and all the buttons appear to work. BUT the mod wheel and pitch are broken and one key is sticky, oh and the battery compartment is corroded so you can't save patches. Chorus works, sequencer is to complicated for me to check. I'll throw in a new battery compartment. I don't know if the mod wheel is salvageable as is or would need replacing. Collection ONLY from North London, N8 Open to offers! I'd like this GONE.
  14. Well, it's a sort of 'democratic' instrument - instead of having to learn the chords you can just strum it and press down the key with the named chord. Here's P J Harvey playing one: The sound is a bit like a zither but with chords. Hmm, that probably doesn't help? Here's my mate playing it more like a zither (this is the actual autoharp for sale here) IMG_1044.mp4 You'd look BOSS playing it on stage
  15. Cool! How different is the switch between reverse and normal? I built a couple of reverse P's and it feels like a good choice, but a bit hard to quantify when you've chiseled out the pickup hole - having it at the flick of a switchmeans you'd be uniquely able to say?
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