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bloke_zero
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Everything posted by bloke_zero
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Might trade for the right P-Bass. -
Hmm, that looks like it's probably PHILIPPINE MAHOGANY (RED MERANTI) - thanks though.
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Interesting! I played an early pre EB stingray yesterday (the most amazing dark brown colour) and it had the studs but not the mutes - I thought it was missing the mutes. Good to know!
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The studs are for the mutes on early stingrays you can see more here: http://www.musicmanbass.global/bridges-pre-eb-eb/
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Hi! I'm thinking of putting together a pbass that sort of hits that 'duh' woody spot and was interested in trying out a pbass body in mahogany. I was looking at MJT in the states as they will build one to order and I have a thing about their candy tangerine nitro finish, but I saw these guys: https://www.guitarandbassbuild.co.uk/collections/ready-ship-bass-bodies/pb-45-string-bodies/bass-guitar-body-precision-alder-2pc-2-25kg-161019p1/ And wondered if anyone had any experience with them, or suggestions for keeping it in the uk? Really I'm not too worried about the finish.
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I almost got my head around the passive bits - the active stuff is beyond me! Interesting to know - thanks.
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I'm ashamed to say it but I like more a jazz slim neck and this is more P the neck details are (from the description above): NECK WIDTH AT NUT: 1 3/4" NECK RADIUS: 12" NECK PROFILE: medium C I wish I hadn't put that in there as its so subjective!
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Price drop - £800
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The electronics are what intitally attracted me to the bass - having that parallel/series switch as stock plus the other options had me wigging out in the shop. When I got it into practice sessions that tonal range really helped going from sort of no wave to dub (i.e. bright bridge parallel to neck series) without evenin touching the eq. That said, I think the passive EQ is good. When I tried replicating the circuit on a passive bass I was building I noticed the resistor/cap values had a massive effect on where and how much they hit the frequency range, I'd guess (but don't know) that the output from the pickups similarly effects the whole circuit. As far as I know all passive tone circuits are cut. I think the point about adding a cap and changing R7 makes sense - there is a long thread on talk bass discussing just that - if I had a bit more time to fiddle about and wasn't worried about stock vs modded I'd try some stuff.
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Yeah, I almost never turn on the active as the mfd’s are so loud anyway. Parallel is always my favourite on a bass. I put some chromes on mine and the brashness went away. I guess I’ll hang on to it - thanks for all the thoughtful comments!
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Full disclosure: I'm trying to sell one (here and on Reverb). I put my VGC USA G&L L2000, Y2K bass up for sale on Reverb and got 1 watcher! I was thinking I'd at least get some interest. I was wondering is it that there are no big name players? Or the Tribute series too good? Or just generally unknown and uninteresting? To me they are great sounding basses, and with the MFD + passive tone controls really capable: like the final flower of Leo's bass journey. But I'm feeling like I might be alone in that!
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Yeah the fretboard is painful - I did mine with latex gloves - coat/harden/wirewool cycle of a day per iteration. Did it 3 or 4 times and came out non-gummy. I was worried about that initally, but it went off fine eventually.
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I did the neck on my last build with Tru oil and really like the feel - sort of organic somehow without being sticky - nice to hear that the body came out good. I think a little texture is a good thing! I'm really tempted to go single coil for my next bass which will be a P-bass. Something about stripping back to the basics that is very appealing.
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Sweet build! How does the Tru oil feel on the body?
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Thanks! It's been my pride an joy!
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Another price drop - £650 for bass chat! or Trade for the right P-Bass (additional cash from me considered). This is a great players bass with a huge range of tones. The MFD pickups are detailed and powerful, the Tri-tone electronics are capable of all the tones, from bright to HEAVY. Tonally it is worth researching - the combination of passive/pre/pre + treble boost and the 2 pickups and series parallel switch make for a very versatile bass. This bass was made in the USA in the year 2000. The finish is in great shape with no chips, scratches or dings. I have owned this bass for 18 months and believe the previous owner mainly kept it in it's case - the plastic film was still on the rear electronics compartment when I bought it from Wunjo in Denmark Street. It has recently been professionally set up and needs nothing. Plays and sounds great. I currently have flats on it. The only mod I've made was to add a hipshot drop D tuner and still have the original which can be replaced to make as was. CONSTRUCTION: bolt-on SCALE: 34" PICKUPS: Two L-spec G&L MFD™ humbucking pickups made in Fullerton, California BODY WOOD: Swamp Ash with tobacco sunburst NECK WOOD: Maple with Rosewood fingerboard NECK WIDTH AT NUT: 1 3/4" NECK RADIUS: 12" NECK PROFILE: medium C FRETS: 21 medium jumbo, nickel TUNING KEYS: Traditional open-back BRIDGE: Leo Fender-designed G&L Saddle-Lock™ ELECTRONICS: Tri-Tone™ system with 3-position pickup selector, series/parallel switch, 3-position pre-amp mode switch, volume, treble, bass WEIGHT: 4.3 Kilos. Comes with G&L hardcase. Pick-up in person encouraged!
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1988 Music Man Stingray 3EQ trans teal green SOLD!
bloke_zero replied to maut's topic in Basses For Sale
That is a great looking bass - love the finish. -
Sweet looking bass! I made the same pickup choice. I just put in series parallel - I really like the parallel sound. I'm going to try a higher value cap for the treble - I've got the passive treble and bass tone controls copied from the G&L 2000 - currently the treble cut removes about 40% of all the sound.
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@HalfManHalfBass you have excellent bass taste! The start of a journey when I saw that ebay auction for the body. I finally got some passive elctronics in it and copper taped the cavities. It really sings to me now - has a lovely deep tone on the E that hits a spot between P & Ray that I really like. Next step is to get a John East preamp in it - though I really like how it sounds passive I'm not feeling the passive tone controls - might have time today to fool with the resistor values again.
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I'd be a bit wary of an auction where they spell Kramer right in the description but not in the title - I guess it's pick up only @aitkenaudio - good luck - the neck looks awesome! I saw mogwai playing last year and I think he might have been playing one - neck certainly looked the same.
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Ha ha - shipping is $52 with G&L - the search continues!
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Cool thanks - I've checked there but 6.5mm seems to be the longest anyone stocks. I can get them from G&L @$12 if all else fails!
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Hi! I'm after a deep thread reverse taper 1M pot and I'm struggling to find one. Easy to find all the A taper ones, but C is proving difficult I'm trying to build up an old style MM Stingray pre amp and I have all the parts, but the pots are standard thread depth, but I need some that will be mounted on a P-Bass body, so need the deep threaded kind. Any suggestions where to find? Or another solution before I just wire in an A taper and accept reverse treble! I looked on mouser, ebay, etc. and I'm thinking luthier specific suppliers might be better. Cheers, Alex
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Picked up my P-Ray bass from Monty's guitars this morning. It's been a long project, but nearly done - just need put the pickup and electronics together tonight. Warmoth P-Bass body with a MM pickup routing USCG Baked birds eye maple 22 fret P-Bass style neck Nordstand 4.4 MM pickup Gotoh metal Going to see how she sounds passive and maybe put a John East MM pre depending. So far plays nice! I'm interested to see how it changes when the pickup goes in.
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Anyone built the Fuzz Dog Klon clone (Klone) with the bass mods? I'm interested in an 'always on' kind of slight crunch tone.
